brus brother

from bio looks like 98 legacy

2002 subaru outback 4 cyl according to profile jumped timing?

05 OB had P0420 at 105K until I junked the car with 200K miles. Tried replacing the cat (aftermarket) without change except more change out of my pocket. Computer is tuned real tight for emissions. It may clear itself but will come back. I bought a $20 code reader/eraser so I could pass our testing every two years. Clear code, ru at a partiocular sequence to set system checks as ready then run to get emissions test good for 2 more years. I think I did that for the last 8-10 years of ownership. Put a piece of black tape over the light Costs nothing. If recent purchase, prior owner probably knew the tricks.

Click and Clack once recommended a new driver be given a nice square car like a Volvo (or Forrester?) so they can turn it into an oval.;-)

dang. effective July 1 if passes.

Driving the kid's 2019 OB with CVT,, acceleration seems to lag for a second or two from stop. Different than my 08, stomp and go. Is this inherent in CVT design?

couldn't find anyone around CT to take mine... who did you use? worth shipping?

check all grounds/connectors front and rear. as 1LT suggested move a known "good" bulb around as well.

Never did the rebuild. Just replaced the one O-ring on top and all was fine after that. Local dealer price was about $2.

Sorry I doubted you. #7 is LINK so it isn't a donut after all. With that in mind, it now looks to be a pretty large gap in your first pic with really rough mating surfaces. I've never used something like THIS or THIS but it would require cutting out the joint and mating the "bandage". Without a lift, it can be challenging. I remember someone using aluminum roof flashing (or was it a beer can) to wrap around a hole in a pipe and secure with SS pipe clamps. As suggested above, shop around smaller non-chain muffler shops and see if someone can't just cut and weld in a hard splice or ask if they would use the flex joint linked above?

OP's first picture sure looks like it is a (rusty) spring+bolt connector on one side so ... flex joint? The further aft junctions don't use springs as posted by Imdew. That being said, the collars are pretty shabby and might still leak around the donut. BTW, I have an issue with my 08 where the rear pipe Vs off to the rear mufflers and have bought time using furnace grade high temp caulk from Home Depot.

dave Welcome to the board. You identify Boyds as your city. If it is Boyds, Martyland, (Go Terps) take your photo into Autozone in Germantown and with year and model, they will sell you the exact donut gasket which as the name implies is shaped like a donut (not flat) and the spring bolt setup like this LINK that you will need. Looks like the donut and spring bolts will set you back around $25 total. The picture posted above by Imdew is the joint in your picture (minus the rust). Called a "flex joint" the springs and the thickness of the donut allow for... "flex" as the exhaust flexes and vibrates, preventing exhaust leaks. Don't overthink this. You might be able to cut through where the donut sits as described above by Heartless. A shop would probably torch the bolts off and be done. You might get lucky but trying to unbolt it the way it is rusted will probably torture you by rounding off the bolts and nuts.

Wasted 1.5 hours today at dealership only to find out that I have the latest software already installed. Apparently, the system isn't even smart enough to report that, but only that it is "unable to download, do you want to retry". Too much technology not ready for prime time. And we'd trust self-driving cars?

Just tried updating the head unit software over wifi and it fails. I have good wifi signal in garage. SOA said it must be brought to dealer. Tech friend suggests that if you miss an update or 2, the wifi download/update will fail. I had auto download and auto update turned off. Some suggest that it's best so as to avoid interrupted install. I will chat service tomorrow and report back as it would seem best under the circumstances to leave auto download set to ON but only install when assured of no interruption. Anyone else have this experience?

STOPPED IN GEAR with foot on brake, I had the vibration. Put car in neutral and vibration stopped.

I asked Uncle Google about "subaru vibration cv axle when stopped" and the search returns a bunch of discussions. I picked one for a quick look and the above link has discussions about CV rebuild and other tolerances and types of engines more prone to vibrations. While it may seem counter-intuitive, I did experience the above mentioned phenomena after axle replacement on my 05 OB.

There is an odd issue with some aftermarket cv axles that cause a vibration when stopped. I can't remember but if I recall, if you put it in neutral the vibration stops... Sorry i can't be 100% sure of the symptoms but there are discussions hereabouts.

Probably not worth the trip but I am in Weston, CT and have a passenger side front cat from my 05 OB non turbo that I replaced with a cheapo aftermarket thinking it would solve the P0420. It didn't solve my problem, eventually traded in the car so you can have it if you want and thanks for cleaning out my garage! Free is good. Unsure what shipping would cost. If you are Handy Andy with a welder, could you just cut the pipe at the front of the cat and clean out any honeycomb that's broken/fuel burnt and clogging? A frtiend was able to shake loose bits out of his cat on a Ford van

Can do. Turn the key in the ignition to "on", the spot just before starting the engine. Buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt 20 times within 30 seconds. Immediately take the key out of the ignition. Enjoy your chime-less Subaru Edit: you only have to do this once and the chime is off for good. Unless your battery dies. Also, you can toggle the chime on/off by following the same instructions.

Any chance you have a clogged/deteriorating cat on the 07? Any codes to report? Disconnect the exhaust and see if it remedies. It will be loud as hell for testing purposes.

Yup. Unusually cold in that area. Was visiting daughter and her in-laws who were arriving from South Africa. A very cold welcome! Friend said when he had a home in Vermont, he would take the battery indoors under these conditions. Battery warmer, block heater... easier to just move?

Thanks Numbchux. I left Lake Placid behind and am back in the garage. Last month I replaced the o-ring and the leaking I had presumed would require a new pump was fixed for $1.70. Those hoses are stiff with age so not unlikely that a clamp should be tighter but... Will see how it behaves out of the cold but I was almost certain that listening pointed to the alternator. The guys at Advanced Auto suggested the belts were just plain cold and the noise would stop once warm but your PS hose/clamp leak will bear some listening next time around.

Thanks for the suggestions G.D. but parked outside a motel with no extension cord. Old timers talk about lighting a pan of oil beneath the engine! YIKES! Hey Paul, stopped by the Olympic Village ski jumps. They are truly for the insane.

Not used to these temps. Alternator whining at startup for a few minutes. Stiff belt issue? Also anyone living with these temps long term, any tips for keeping the battery in top shape? Start the car daily? Idle for how long?