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Everything posted by brus brother
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excellent point. I have a writeup here somewhere with pictures of that 'gaiter' with broken wires. Video of someone with similar issue who decided to disassemble the rear gate innards. I was lazy and just noted the broken wires, used a piece of dental floss (I'm a retired dentist) to pull the broken piece through the gaiter, tied on a piece of wire as a splice and dragged it back through and made the connections. I think there was a total of three wires that were gerschmucked and in need of handiwork. Lasted until I canned the car.
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Drove my 05 OB with P0420 for over 100K miles after it first popped on. Car died a peaceful death around 225K. It's an emissions code. Might come and go. Cruise will be disabled when the CEL is on. Get a cheap code reader if you think you might have other codes of concern. If you need inspection, there is a sequence of clearing the codes and getting enough systems ready to pass. I was told the tolerances on emissions was so tight on that car that it was easily over the limit. I replaced O2 sensors and original cat (bank1) with aftermarket and code immediately came back. Piece of black tape over the blinky dash lights and drove on. Cardoc over on subaruoutback.org has a couple hundred pages of posts that try to solve issue but I never got to the point of success. Stopped throwing my wallet at the car.
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sell the bed? buy new? sell everything, stuff the outback and travel light. go Maryland Terrapins! My daughter and hubby paid to move from NYC to here in CT beginning of Covid. Since sold off most every bulky item including their bikes, tables, chairs. Currently AirBB monthly around the world. From London to Aruba to France. Worked for them. Hope your daughter's move is safe and worry free for dad. I guess you costed out driving renting a one way uhaul cargo van? Not as much fun if both passengers are able drivers and playing follow the leader...
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I have a 2008 OB with chronic, migratory and recurring heat shield issues. 135K miles in the rust belt. Years ago when it first started, car was in for a free oil change at SOA. I always enjoy the up-sell conversation when in for the "free" service... "Sir, you are due for your headlight rotation. I see you have your kids in the car. You probably want to take care of this now." I always decline, telling them they are not my kids, so not my problem. Besides, I do most simple work myself and rotate the headlights as per manufacturers schedule of maintenance. OK Back to the heat shield noise. The tech proceeded to bang around with his hand on the exhaust and once the noise was located (to my horror) he inserted a self tapping screw into the exhaust. But what he actually did was drill ONLY through the heat shield but NOT actually into the exhaust pipe, wedging the shield in place, eliminating the heat shield from rattling. Phew. In the past I used stainless steel hose clamps (per USMB recommendations) where straight runs allowed but recently ran into a new loose heat shield on a bend that defied my attempts with a clamp. Pulled out my nut driver and a self tapping screw and voila, NNM (noise no more.) Sounds like OP may have figured out his noise but just wanted to tell an old timer's tale of yore. Now, get off my lawn. ;-)
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P0420 for 8 years gas mileage never altered (even with the black tape). Car ran great all those years. There was another trick of installing a resistor on one of the O2 sensor wires and while the P0420 disappeared, another code popped up instead. If you end up not getting a resolution, you can erase the code with a $20 reader and cruise will work until the code reappears. You can also just read codes on a routine basis and allay concerns if you fear a code warning that the rear tires are about to fall off. I think that code is Pwtf! Seriously, I wish you luck. Hope you can report good news.
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05 OB had P0420 at 105K until I junked the car with 200K miles. Tried replacing the cat (aftermarket) without change except more change out of my pocket. Computer is tuned real tight for emissions. It may clear itself but will come back. I bought a $20 code reader/eraser so I could pass our testing every two years. Clear code, ru at a partiocular sequence to set system checks as ready then run to get emissions test good for 2 more years. I think I did that for the last 8-10 years of ownership. Put a piece of black tape over the light Costs nothing. If recent purchase, prior owner probably knew the tricks.