brus brother

at least 1mm thanks for the reference

left rear shock boot/diaphragm/dust shield has dropped down. not sure how this happened or how the shock complex is assembled. is there a way of repositioning it or does this indicate some other deterioration?

Changed lower control arm bushings (genuine Subaru) and front and rear sway bar links (Moog with zerk fittings) and the suspension is now as quiet as new. No need to start removing shocks to evaluate top mounts (necessitating realignment). Now to tackle the noisy exhaust. Used high temp furnace caulk a few years ago and might be time for another coat.

Need to replace rotors for 2008 OB with 130K miles. Been using "lifetime" pads from Autozone and am led to believe they are aggressive on rotors. There is a lip of rust around the edges and no one seems to resurface rotors anymore? Any suggestions for mid price rotors?

Didn't work for me on my 2005 OB. I still have the drilled out spacer if someone needs it.

wedge a brick against the gas pedal for cruise control and keep driving? at "2005,000" miles you are well past end of life?

BTW, what failed in the inspection? Was it just system readiness? Did they tell you to just drive around and come back? Ask them if it is true in CT that you can have one "not ready?"

LINK Bunch of videos listed doing a Google search "P1443 subaru" what 'tis and how to repair

I'm in Weston. Retired so stop by in the morning if you want to borrow the reader? Send me a PM.

The beauty of having your own code reader is that you can do the driving sequence to get the systems "ready" and then scurry over for the inspection. Where are you located? Are you following the below procedure? Do you have a code reader? I will be in Milford tomorrow late afternoon. PM me if you need to try my reader. It's an older version than the one i linked earlier but it will do what you need which is to erase the codes and then verify systems ready after following the below procedure before you go back for inspection. Check the price of the part you are looking for at SubaruPartsForyou.com and realize that if you order online you can pickup in Milford without shipping charges. Often just as cheap as AZ or Advance.

P0420 is actually cat converter gremlin. I was just using that as an example of my issue and the sequence I used to pass CT emissions for 8 years running.

If the cap is on tight, then get new Subaru gas cap. Subarupartsforyou.com is located at Dan Perkins dealership in Milford. Order on line, wait for confirmation and then pickup at counter with no shipping cost and online pricing. use code reader/eraser like THIS erase codes then do the sequence for setting system readiness. It's posted here somewhere. I think here in CT we can get away with one "not ready" and still pass. I had the P0420 through 4 emissions inspections by clearing the code, doing the dance and then straight to testing site.

Search Uncle Google for ErHC among many postings I came across this one with a "SOLVED"

Perkins will allow you to order on line and pickup at counter to avoid shipping. Is the online price what you are calling the counter price?

2008 Outback. 130K miles. Rattling over bumps. I see that the lower control arm bushings are shot. Is there a way to distinguish between sound of those failed bushings and failed shock top mounts? I am not doing the repairs myself. Thinking I'd have them do the control arm bushings first which would not necessitate realignment and then if rattling persists, do the shocks? Mechanic is also suggesting the shock/spring loaded assembly instead of just the top mount (less labor to swap out the assembly than replace top mount?) If so, is Monroe a decent brand?

Was this covered under CPO warranty? Did you ask them for those specific repairs or did they (mis)diagnose the problem in which case you should be reimbursed.

air freshener

could the clunk actually be coming from the drive shaft/u joint complex? had that issue with my 05

Good news for any local buyers here in CT. shopping at SubaruPartsForYou.com online seller of Dan Perkins Subaru in Milford, CT. Great prices and very informative staff. There is an option at checkout for local pickup at the counter to avoid paying shipping charges and get it as soon as you can get there. Just wait for the confirmation email and head on over.

spendy!

Yup. Haven't cultivated the new staff yet... I see the Moog sway bar links have zerk fittings to be greased for maintenance. Genuine Subaru links are drive until they fail.

2008 Outback clunking on bumps. Front lower control arm bushings have a lot of play when moved with pry bar. One is torn. Rear sway bar links have play and click sound when manually moved. Any recommendations for parts to use and/or avoid? Or just use genuine SOA? BTW, I have watched a few Youtube videos like THIS where people have used 3M Window Weld Polyurethane to refurbish control arm and other bushings but the thickness required would require at least 24 hours or more drying time and this is my only transportation right now.

what are the dealer settings you are looking to change?

That's great! It's unlocked. I'll stop over after dark ;-)

do you have to step on the brake before turning the key?