brus brother

There is an odd issue with some aftermarket cv axles that cause a vibration when stopped. I can't remember but if I recall, if you put it in neutral the vibration stops... Sorry i can't be 100% sure of the symptoms but there are discussions hereabouts.

Probably not worth the trip but I am in Weston, CT and have a passenger side front cat from my 05 OB non turbo that I replaced with a cheapo aftermarket thinking it would solve the P0420. It didn't solve my problem, eventually traded in the car so you can have it if you want and thanks for cleaning out my garage! Free is good. Unsure what shipping would cost. If you are Handy Andy with a welder, could you just cut the pipe at the front of the cat and clean out any honeycomb that's broken/fuel burnt and clogging? A frtiend was able to shake loose bits out of his cat on a Ford van

Can do. Turn the key in the ignition to "on", the spot just before starting the engine. Buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt 20 times within 30 seconds. Immediately take the key out of the ignition. Enjoy your chime-less Subaru Edit: you only have to do this once and the chime is off for good. Unless your battery dies. Also, you can toggle the chime on/off by following the same instructions.

Any chance you have a clogged/deteriorating cat on the 07? Any codes to report? Disconnect the exhaust and see if it remedies. It will be loud as hell for testing purposes.

Yup. Unusually cold in that area. Was visiting daughter and her in-laws who were arriving from South Africa. A very cold welcome! Friend said when he had a home in Vermont, he would take the battery indoors under these conditions. Battery warmer, block heater... easier to just move?

Thanks Numbchux. I left Lake Placid behind and am back in the garage. Last month I replaced the o-ring and the leaking I had presumed would require a new pump was fixed for $1.70. Those hoses are stiff with age so not unlikely that a clamp should be tighter but... Will see how it behaves out of the cold but I was almost certain that listening pointed to the alternator. The guys at Advanced Auto suggested the belts were just plain cold and the noise would stop once warm but your PS hose/clamp leak will bear some listening next time around.

Thanks for the suggestions G.D. but parked outside a motel with no extension cord. Old timers talk about lighting a pan of oil beneath the engine! YIKES! Hey Paul, stopped by the Olympic Village ski jumps. They are truly for the insane.

Not used to these temps. Alternator whining at startup for a few minutes. Stiff belt issue? Also anyone living with these temps long term, any tips for keeping the battery in top shape? Start the car daily? Idle for how long?

Take a deep breath. Once the CEL is on, the cruise control becomes disabled. Oftentimes, the CEL will clear after a number of drive miles/cycles where the car isn't experiencing "unusual" circumstances. Once the CEL is off, the cruise should return. Clearing codes is easy BUT get the code reader and determine what the fault is first. BTW, if you clear the code yourself, unlike letting the code reset naturally, there will be a learning period for the engine so don't set the mental alarm anew if there is rough running. Let us know if you need the procedure to facilitate the learning. Now, as far as your Evel Knievel impersonation goes...

I just noticed the unit is still weeping at the large gasket so I guess I am still in for a reseal. It's not leaking as badly as before and no noise so I will put it off until warmer weather. What brand did you use as a replacement? New or rebuilt?

Best news yet. Suspecting what I read as a common problem, fiddling around with the top mounted plastic elbow atop the pump caused air to enter the system (groaning noise). Cleaned the entire area with brake cleaner and traced the substantial rivulet of brake fluid back to a defective O-ring sitting where the return line enters the top of the pump. Aside from the O-ring being hardened, it is a poor design in that the fitting is only held on by a bolt on one side, allowing for torquing of the fitting leading to air being sucked in and fluid escaping when pump not sucking the fluid through the system. $1.70 for the O-ring and the area is nice and dry. Competent diagnosis comes before treatment. Watchful neglect paid off. One of my professors advised to follow the 6 Ps: Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance

just ordered the kit cheapest was Car ID $21.53 delivered hold my ankles, I'm going in!

easy 303 744 5651 option 2 asked for tech service and he reviewed ps pumps listed by MY and said they probably never updated their own info to include 08 for reseal kits wonder how many sales were missed...

Just spoke with Gates tech dept and verified that since the pump for the 2007 is the same as for the 2008 Subaru part #34430AG03B, the reseal kit Gates #348827 (spec'd for the 2005-2007) is compatible with my 08. I may buy a cheap replacement pump to have on hand in the event the reseal goes south.

Here's an excellent tutorial on rebuilding an 07 OB PS pump. Not that difficult... BUT in searching, there is no rebuild kit for the 2008 DOH! as others have reported the same on the SubaruOutback site a few years ago linked HERE.. Too bad cuz the PS is working properly. No noise. So, if I could just locate the external approximate O-rings, I wouldn't even be concerned with the internal seals or bearing, less chance of scoring or misplaced vanes. This is our only car so I don't have the luxury of removing the pump and spec searching O-rings. Might go cheap through Carparts. $140 Comes with the pulley so I don't have to rassle that thing loose. One year warranty. Used of that vintage would be suffering the same hardening of the seals so not a long term solution. Unfortunate that an 07 wouldn't cross-fit or would it? Subaru dealers list the same part number 34430AG03B for 07 as 08... I'll have to check with vin tomorrow but that might just be the workaround to source the reseal kit AVAILABLE FOR 07 BUT NOT FOR 08 my?? Puzzled...

Pretty sizeable leak from the PS pump. Subaru genuine are pretty spendy but my experience with my 05 was that aftermarket was a failure and too late to remedy having given back the original for core charge. Any recommendations?

no dirt impeding the movement within the "cradle" holding the sprayer? I'm assuming it is just one side that is wonky? Compare the mechanisms and movement within the cradle to the other side. Did it pop out of the hinged position or is the hinge broken? This ain't rocket surgery ;-)

Many causative and contributory factors BUT for me, the Subaru new car prices might push me towards a more "elegant' ride IF I wasn't holding on to my 08 OB, having gifted the 19 OB to my daughter. Time will tell.

is your sprayer mounted ON the hood or is it mounted in a cradle underneath the hood?

In the 08 the nozzle mechanism rides and pivots in a "sling" mounted beneath the hood. I think the needle technique applies to the type mounted on the hood. If it's just one side, open the hood and make sure there isn't any leaf or other debris lodged in the mechanism keeping it from rotating freely.

just looked at mine. there are nozzles on driver and passenger side... correct? are both mis-aimed? dirt occluding the nozzle?

Since it seems that you have already contorted yourself to see behind the hvac control panel, I will just add my experience in the hopes that it might be something simple. My 08 OB has the speed and selector dial. Apparently, I may have been heavy handed in operating it or just plain unlucky at some point after which it stopped working. Twisted my aging 6'4" frame under the steering wheel and saw that the lever intended to operate an actuator had been displaced. Fiddled with it (using controlled force) until I reattached it and all was well in HVAC Land. Hope you are as lucky.

My 2000 legacy had the delayed engagement issue with the AT (transmission replaced under extended warranty) but if you are looking at manual, it's not an issue. You might want to do a search of Technical Service Bulletins for those years to get an overview of what you might expect. When you look around at God's creations you might think Him an underachiever, so considering cars are made by man...

Is there no way to make these bearings serviceable? At $200+ a pop plus installation it isn't "cheap" but if it is a seal failure, then re-greasing/servicing won't help regardless. Reviewing old posts describe greater incidence of front failures possibly attributed to greater brake heat up front.