brus brother

I'm in Weston. Retired so stop by in the morning if you want to borrow the reader? Send me a PM.

The beauty of having your own code reader is that you can do the driving sequence to get the systems "ready" and then scurry over for the inspection. Where are you located? Are you following the below procedure? Do you have a code reader? I will be in Milford tomorrow late afternoon. PM me if you need to try my reader. It's an older version than the one i linked earlier but it will do what you need which is to erase the codes and then verify systems ready after following the below procedure before you go back for inspection. Check the price of the part you are looking for at SubaruPartsForyou.com and realize that if you order online you can pickup in Milford without shipping charges. Often just as cheap as AZ or Advance.

P0420 is actually cat converter gremlin. I was just using that as an example of my issue and the sequence I used to pass CT emissions for 8 years running.

If the cap is on tight, then get new Subaru gas cap. Subarupartsforyou.com is located at Dan Perkins dealership in Milford. Order on line, wait for confirmation and then pickup at counter with no shipping cost and online pricing. use code reader/eraser like THIS erase codes then do the sequence for setting system readiness. It's posted here somewhere. I think here in CT we can get away with one "not ready" and still pass. I had the P0420 through 4 emissions inspections by clearing the code, doing the dance and then straight to testing site.

Search Uncle Google for ErHC among many postings I came across this one with a "SOLVED"

Perkins will allow you to order on line and pickup at counter to avoid shipping. Is the online price what you are calling the counter price?

2008 Outback. 130K miles. Rattling over bumps. I see that the lower control arm bushings are shot. Is there a way to distinguish between sound of those failed bushings and failed shock top mounts? I am not doing the repairs myself. Thinking I'd have them do the control arm bushings first which would not necessitate realignment and then if rattling persists, do the shocks? Mechanic is also suggesting the shock/spring loaded assembly instead of just the top mount (less labor to swap out the assembly than replace top mount?) If so, is Monroe a decent brand?

Was this covered under CPO warranty? Did you ask them for those specific repairs or did they (mis)diagnose the problem in which case you should be reimbursed.

air freshener

could the clunk actually be coming from the drive shaft/u joint complex? had that issue with my 05

Good news for any local buyers here in CT. shopping at SubaruPartsForYou.com online seller of Dan Perkins Subaru in Milford, CT. Great prices and very informative staff. There is an option at checkout for local pickup at the counter to avoid paying shipping charges and get it as soon as you can get there. Just wait for the confirmation email and head on over.

spendy!

Yup. Haven't cultivated the new staff yet... I see the Moog sway bar links have zerk fittings to be greased for maintenance. Genuine Subaru links are drive until they fail.

2008 Outback clunking on bumps. Front lower control arm bushings have a lot of play when moved with pry bar. One is torn. Rear sway bar links have play and click sound when manually moved. Any recommendations for parts to use and/or avoid? Or just use genuine SOA? BTW, I have watched a few Youtube videos like THIS where people have used 3M Window Weld Polyurethane to refurbish control arm and other bushings but the thickness required would require at least 24 hours or more drying time and this is my only transportation right now.

what are the dealer settings you are looking to change?

That's great! It's unlocked. I'll stop over after dark ;-)

do you have to step on the brake before turning the key?

red oil is palm oil + menthol

make sure you aren't draining the AT fluid (is your's at or mt?) check twice f'up once

Only happens after severe weather or if inside very damp garage.

Damp weather rough running until warm. Cyl 3 fault code. Switched wires and fault stayed at cyl 3 so I'm supposing bad coil. Advance Auto has a few options: Thoughts? Carquest $85 Beck/Arnley $96 NGK $120 25% coupon code RMN5 saves a few additional bucks

common things occur most commonly...

Wow, that video would seem to indicate that you might get codes reading adjacent cylinders. any thoughts of oem or aftermarket (specify brand if you like) for a replacement? as I said I have already swapped wires and the code fault stayed with the cylinder so the wires would seem to be OK.

or insurance purposes?? Just ran into Moosens and noticed that he had 2 driveshafts in the rear of his pickup. I asked if they were for 2001 but no, I don't think they were even 90s vintage. who here (besides Moosens) drives around with not one but two Subie driveshafts "just in case?"