sirtokesalot

i tried to pull a truck without an engine across a yard with my 95 legacy wagon and i tore the tow hook out from the back of the car. yea i wont be trying that again.

yes first to second is a harsh shift to me. it does shift a bit better warm vs cold but i can still feel it. the first to second thing bugs me it waits until over 3000 rpm to shift usually around 3500 and then the shift is like a lurch sort of as it hits the next gear seemingly harder than it should. im probably just going crazy over how it works and its probably working normally. it doesent shift anything like the last few cars ive had. my bmw is a fast shift probably the fastest of any auto ive ever seen im talking like instant u can drive it in manual 321 on the shifter and it will respond instantly when the shift is made.the bmw also almost never revs over 2500 rpm. the lincoln i had was a very smooth shift almost like you couldn't feel it at all. i dont own the lincoln anymore though. it might just be that im so used to having a fast instant shift that i think this one is broken?

ive had a piece of contractor bag wrapped around mine with zip ties holding it on since last year. my boot was missing completely when i bought the car and it was clicking intermittently then i wrapped the contractor bag around it zip tied the one end loaded it with grease wrapped it around the Axel squeezing the grease closer to the cv then more zip ties to hold it all in place. it still clicks sometimes but the bag is still holding and definitely does not click as bad as it did when i got the car. lol was googling how many people tried this witch is how i got here and did not notice this post was so old when i posted.

how much pressure should the trans make? can i rig a pressure gauge into the trans cooler line to see the line pressure on the trans?

this. you dont want to have to pull it back out again a few weeks later because another bulb blows. change them all.

it shifts through all the gears manually but acts the same when the shift happens. to me it just seems like its not shifting fast enough. first to second is the worst and also a kind of harsh shift 2nd to 3rd not so harsh but still slow 3rd to 4rth or overdrive not sure what it is is also not so harsh but slow to shift into the gear. all gears do feel like they fully engage just on their own time. i can feel the car let go of the gear engine revs slow down i feel it begin to grab the next gear then feel the clutches actually grab down and the gear fully engage. all shifts are like this.

this is my second winter with the car. i changed the trans fluid during last winter did not drive the car much through the summer. ive put a new coil on it new wires new plugs. the transmission fluid is still bright red colored no burnt smell still right at the full mark. when i changed the fluid i drained what was in there refilled it drove it about 20 min and changed it again. ive done alot of other work on the car but none that i can think of that would effect transmission. such as replaced oil pan repaired trans cooler line brakes and such.

but again so soon? the fluid only has about 5000 miles since i changed it last.

ive plugged tires in the past and had them last for years and ive also plugged tires and had them go out again a month or 2 later. my favorite plug job was on my own tire i plugged the side wall i know i shouldent have but the tire was near new tread wise and i was broke. that tire went on 3 years before the plug blew out and i was forced to get another tire but at that time the tire was well worn and needed replacing.

i have a 95 legacy auto. the trans has been shifting a bit weird to me. it likes to hang out of first gear until around 3500 to 4000 rpm even if im light on the throttle. and when it shifts from first to second its not as smooth as i think it should be. it also seems like it takes it a second to actually fully engage the next gear this issue happens with all gear shifts. does the trans-x stuff work with the older transmissions?

i will make a harness for it all with bigger wires i was just curious what it took to get it done because once i do get the projectors it will have hid's and only one bulb for both high and low so they will need to be that way soon just getting things started. the halogen bulbs should last that way for way longer than i need them too.

can the headlight lens be removed from the back part? im planning a projector retrofit and just curious if its gonna be a front cover off everything sort of hidden or a hack the back of it open deal.

ive seen mine flashing twice now. once was because water had gotten down the tube where the spark plug goes and was causing a constant misfire the second time was when the harmonic balancer i think its called the main pulley that drives everything came off the engine and that caused it to flash.

today i traced the wire's from the alternator and found they ended at the fuse box. can i safely add a second wire from the alternator to the battery? reason for this is because i have a stereo in the car big amp and it wants more juice and i think im losing some power through those small wires leading to the fuse box first then to the battery.

while not going with jdm i have plans for robbing the innards of some audi lights or somtihng from the yard and cutting my lights up to put projectors in them.

i am trying to figure out how to make the low beams stay on with the high beams. im not worried about bulb life and such ive done this mod to my other cars and haven't noticed any difference in bulb life. the bmw i had to open the fuse box and cut a ground wire off the low beam relay and wire it to a constant ground point instead of the switched ground point is there a simalar type thing that has to be done on the subaru? i have a 95 legacy wagon with the 2.2 motor.

well my plan is if i dont find someone to weld it up cheap enough im going to get me a fiberglass kit and clean the area up and fiberglass the holes shut.

i was curious if anyone here was from ct has a welder and would be willing to help me fix some holes in my car. i don't need anything pretty just want the holes covered up so the car wont fall apart. i have holes up around the rear strut towers i will remove the suspension stuff so you can weld in there but i do not know how to weld never tried nor know anyone with one.

yep id hammer it back. buy a head light and marker light for the broken side maby a new grill from the scrap yard and make it appear ok. bend the shift link stuff back and call it a day.

might be. i posted them when i found them now the add says its been deleted. it was 2 4 cylender subaru engines and one 6

saw these on craigslist in the free section this morning and figured id post them up. free subaru engines in connecticut. http://hartford.craigslist.org/zip/5310232843.html

ive been considering replacing my rusty worn tone ring and when i do my plan is to cut the ring in the groves in 2 spots remove it and install it on my car in 2 pieces. i will be getting a junk yard ring when i do the job.

possibly piston slap? a friend of mines subaru has this and lucas made it louder.

i have a similar issue on a bmw i own witch i believe is the ignition switch failing. when it wont start from the key will it start if you take a piece of wire and jump power from the batter to the starter solenoid?

i thought the 95 ej22 was the last non-interference and that the 96 forward were interference motors