970subaru

this is somewhat of an oversimplification but: you need at least 3 things to blow through a carb: a fuel pump that can do about 4-6 psi higher than the highest boost you will run, a boost sensitive rising rate fuel pressure regulator(rrfpr), and a thing called a pitot tube which is like a boost port that the intake of it is facing into the intake stream so it is reading not only the pressure of boost, but also the pressure of the incoming air stream. its a concept taken from airplanes. so you set your base fuel pressure to whatever you need it at, and plug your boost line into the rrfpr then it increases fuel pressure 1:1 with psi from the pitot tube. since the pressure inside the fuel bowl will be slightly higher than normal your jetting can remain close to stock. you have to boost reference every port on the carb that would otherwise be referenced to the atmosphere. keep in mind, I dont have a f#cking clue about hitachi or weber carbs, I only know mikuni bike carbs namely CV's and VM's so all of that above may totally not work. I know you can blow through some webers because VW people do it all the time with turbos. it may be totally possible to blow through a hitachi but mjor pitfalls of blow throughs are crushing floats from boost, getting incorrect metering, and tearing diaphragms. also getting something to seal to the carb so you not leaking off all your boost. best blower to run would probably be a eaton M62 off those pontiac things because they are dirt cheap on ebay and not too big but you will have to either get one off a mercedes that has a boost controllling clutch or run a recirc valve. another option would be to use a propane mixer setup and either blow through that or draw through which would be pretty freakin sweet but add at least $300 to your project.

just the engine will bolt to your existing trans and engine mounts so nothing custom there. to run factory subaru turbo piping you will need to get a turbo crossmember as it has a special clearance area. you can use the stock wiring harness but you have to add 5 or so wires for the boost control stuff to the ecu, and switch the cam and crank sensor wires around.its pretty easy as subaru engine swaps go but any engine swap is not for the uninitiated.

monstaru what are you doing for suspension? and are you building a frame? steering? I agree with rooinater stick to the toyota axles to take advantage of how light this thing could end up being, d44's would add a couple hundred pounds over toys even albeit at the lowest point of the rig, but still. how much you think it will weigh, 2700 or so?

ok... how the heck does the disty shaft attach to the cam? pics of that pleeeez? also cool manifold... did you make it? propane+turbo!!

sweet! as much as I hate wyoming i'll have to come up there some time and help out.

closed deck is a non issue. look what people are doing with wrx blocks and those are open deck. I dont think the ej22e block gets enough credit.

there were also vw quantums with the 1.6td though they may not have come as synchro. its possible to build one though. also there was an audi fox wagon(very close to a quantum) with a diesel 5cyl IIRC.

yup ej25 heads on ej22 block is a sick low budget motor. 8.5:1 sounds about right. whats cool also is that you can use the stock ej22e cam angle sensor on the ej25d or the ej251 heads and most of the injectors are within ej22e's capability to run well. though with a piggyback that doesnt really matter. also good about ej25d heads is that they are basically ej20k heads so there is already a spot to drill into for oil lines to the turbo you just have to tap it. sohc are great too, just no oil bung. afaik you need the timing gear off the ej251 to run those heads on a 22e block, the spacing of the 22e timing belt is wrong.

turbo on an NA motor is still a big improvement. lets see: wrx VF11: $100 wrx stock uppipe: free-$40 used downpipe: $100 used wrx exhaust: 150? some junk pipe bendds to connect uppipe to stock manifold: free some water/meth injection: $400(less for a DIY kit) another $200 or so for the little bits maybe forget the water injection and the price would go way down but so would power. or run the kit with straight meth for crazy power.

to more than the ac condenser? what about multiple heater cores? motorcycle radiator?

I would talk to local machine shops and see if they know of anything local.

usually get 26mpg highway in ej22e car with ej25 block pretty open 2.5" exhaust 4.11. going to 6k on 1st and 2nd most every light and then cruising around in 5th at 1k rpm gets about 24 in city. I run a mix of half 87 half 91. I want to try running straight 87 but have only done that when up at 12000 feet for extended periods.

could be a crappy ground?

99% sure they wont bolt up. Ive only sat in the grey jetta recaros like the pic, never seen any swapped in to a soob. but it would be pretty easy. other good seats are some honda/acura buckets, very light and comfy.

wow that things clean! any dash thats going to be an "update" will be quite a bit wider and heavier. there are lots of newer seats that would be cool though. some favorite seats of mine are the recaros out of e21 and e30 BMW's and some vw mk2 jetta gli's. those are light seats and the leather recaros from the bmw's are just beyond nice. http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/Techtips/Timbotechnotes/seats/pics/mk2recaros.jpg also the impreza 2.5rs seats are great, wrx seats are great, ss seats, etc.

yeah I talked to a guy who works for a cryo treating company about doing cast aluminum and he said the biggest benefit is that it has better resistance to deforming under heat and stress rather than overall strength or say detonation resistance. like for pistons that have been cryod you can run a tighter ring gap and wear stays a lot more even in the bore.

all this talk of changing shapes of ports is pure speculation until you have them on a flow bench. for instance on my motorcycle, a gn400(400cc thumper), the shortside exhaust radius has a square edge on it. that must suck for flow right? well a guy I know that road races them smoothed that edge to maybe 1/8" radius and it killed all the low end and he didnt see any increase in power. we are going to those bumps in the chevy 2.8 are most likely a feature to improve swirl for fuel atomization ie emissions. they are in lots of american heads. that 2.8 is a dog tho, cant believe people are even trying to hot rod them. gravityman, are you planning on trying to unshroud those valves any? those seats look pretty sunk in. looks like youve got a decent amount of meat to work with there. also can you cut the valve guides back any?

ej20tt aka ej20h doesnt have wiring diagrams for it anywhere so its pointless to get a wiring harness even if you could find one. you can make ej22 wiring harness work on it, and use ej22e ecu with a piggyback like a greddy emanage or perfectpower smt6. but its a decent motor otherwise has a little bit high compression, 9:1 but with a good tune and intercooler it should do ok. dont bother with importing an ej dual range. the low range on em is pathetic at 1.1xx:1. not sure why they even decided to go to that complexity and not put in a decent reduction. best trans bargain is a NA legacy with cable clutch and 4.11 diff gears. they hold up and you can get em for under 300 sometimes. there are tons of em in the yards. you could also go with a forester trans they have 4.44 diff gears but they are a little expensive. you could do a 4eat too if its an offroader. 4eat with 4.44 gears would be pretty sweet.

I wasnt aware of any speed control on the pump. where did you hear about that? the setup a local guy did he just took a hot off the AC plug cause he put the pump where the AC compressor was and used the condenser as a huge heat exchanger(radiator). If I had to guess I'd say that in the liberty RS the ecu controls it. there are copies of the liberty RS FSM's on the net, you will have to search for them as I cant remember where. I think a site called ravensblade impreza has some fsms. if you are in NZ you should be able to find a liberty RS FSM a bit easier than us in the US. try www.rslibertyclub.org

lots of places have them sitting in the back of the shop in varying degrees of completeness, but many have the wiring harness pretty hacked up. usually they want 400-500 for a motor which may or may not have low miles. some people put these motors in and abuse them for many miles without issue and some spin a bearing pretty quickly(a guy I know just did a V2 swap in his RS and it spun a bearing within a few weeks). IMHO these motors would be good for a project car if you are going to run a standalone system like megasquirt or something. I dont know if I would want to rely on one for a DD. FWIW, its next to impossible to find a clean ej20g wiring harness and when you do they are expensive. another cheap motor to buy is the ej20h. this is the japanese twin turbo 2.0L, and they can be found with trans attached, clean wiring harness, accessories, etc but have some problems; NOBODY has a wiring diagram for them!! not to mention the twin turbo setup is not compatible with LHD car's steering racks. these would be a good choice again if you are doing a custom turbo setup(some garret), or converting to a factory single turbo and running a standalone or all the engine management off another car(ej22e ecu and sensors+piggyback for instance). there are some from an ebay seller Jhot for around 600-800 with a transmission and cut up wiring harness which is a deal and a half.

turbo or supercharger setup could be built and theres always nitrous

well as you know, you only need a certain amount of area for a given NA motor to make the best power. I ran the #'s and dual 2" is equivelant in cross sectional area to roughly 2.75" single, which is a little overkill for a motor like an ej22. yeah, you cant directly compare the flow of 2 smaller pipes to one larger but I still think it wouldnt work that well. even if you run an H or X pipe, its still not going to scavenge as well as a single exhaust. v8's scavenge a lot better with 2x the pulses. all that said if it works out it will look pretty cool. nice photochop by the way!

that wouldnt be as good as a single 2.25 both in terms of power, weight, and ease of plumbing. but do it if you really want to I guess. it probably wouldnt even sound as good as a single.

about as loud as an open header. the cat quiets it maybe a little bit. it sounds really good tho.

bill, the place to ask about impreza swapping would be the conversions forum on www.nasioc.com as that is where the majority of people who run swapped imprezas post at. but do a lot of searching/reading/lurking there before you post. there is a huge amount of info, some of it good and some not so. BTW it is *possible* to swap just about any EJ, EG, or EZ motor into your impreza, given the time/money/skill. my best advice to you is to do quite a bit of reading about the various popular motor swaps there are, and then you can decide which one suits your budget and needs. swapped GC imprezas can be monsters if you do it right. your brighton is among the lightest factory EJ cars depending on how it was specced out.