LPGsuperchargedBrumby

hell YEAH thats how its mean't to be done!!!!!! just one question... what breed of carb/reg' are you running on it? i have just taken the ABER (impco type) carb off my ute and replaced it with a 46mm gas mixer fitted to a ea82t throttle body (51mm butterfly ) because the ABER is just a bit oversize for a 1.8L (it came off a 4.1L foulcoon) and has always done some annoying stuff at idle and just above

i have run it in my other brumby for awhile now ,i get about 100km more per tank on average i get about 500km without ,and 580-600km with acetone @ 4 oz per 50 liter tank doesen't seem to have done any damage so far

well i just got round to pulling the instrument cluster out and removing the speedo to try see what the problem is..and i think i found the problem, it seems the bush that holds the bit that the drive cable goes into has worn (if i pushed it foward and moved the needle with my finger the needle would stay where i had pushed it to untill i released the pressure on the socket that drive cable fits into) and was allowing the rear(cable side) of the magnetic drive to interfere with the front(needle side) of the mag' drive, in turn pushing it into its bush at the front causeing it to be too hard for the magnetic drive to turn (and in my case too hard for the return spring to return) The FIX with the speedo out of the instrument panel i removed the tripmeter and pulled off the needle and removed the plate with all the numbers. On my speedo the front bush is adjustable(via a bloody fiddly little nut) i loosened the locking nut and screwed the bush out about 2 turns of its reeeally fine thread. put it all back together to test it and it works like a swiss....speedo...

i'd be more interested in a Freedom Motors diesel rotary 150hp and its only mean't to weight 120lb

that sounds the same as what happened when i got a replacement 'box that had the 3.9 ratio in it when my rear diff was 3.7...i was told that the new box was 3.7 as well..gotta love(some) JY lunch eaters except i knew something was wrong within a couple of seconds of engaging 4wd ( far to much time driving crusty old Landrovers that torque bind to the max on sealed roads) same problems and 'thump' when coming out of 4wd

i'd be looking at the hose that go's from your turbine housing to the wastegate actuator its sounds like it was leaking when you were hitting the high boost #s but isn't leaking now for some reason either that or something was obstructing the movement of the diaframe or the rod that connects it to to the wastegate

3 liters of subaru goodness = more power.......its already there

umm all this talk of mega power is good but someone seems to have missed the fact that with mega power comes the need for mega brakes....like the guru said "its not spped that kills....its the sudden stop when it all go's messed up" putting a ez30r up the front would necessitate uprating the brakes (at least if i was building it it would anyway)

correct me if im wrong but if a ej18 ECU will run a ej22 then a ej22 ECU should run a ej20 N/A i ask this because a friend of my'n has had the usual accesory pully problem with his ej22 , half the drive key is still stuck in the timing belt pully so he can't get that off and the bolt has broken off inside the crank and we can't even get a drill to go into it because i think its work hardend(drill was freshly sharpend and it wouldn't even look at cutting into the bolt) ej22's are very uncommon here so getting another one is out of the question however ej20n/a and ej25's are very common would the ej25 run on the ej22 harnes?

thanks for the info, as it happens i've been too busy with work to much time into my motor swap and i haven't got the clutch parts i need yet(apart from the fly wheel) so some definitive part #'s is all good. ohh and i haven't bought any thing from the the partsbin or autozone coz the shipping to here would kill any price advantage.

in my 9 years of engineering i've seen chromeing and galvanising do some funny things to steel if your rims where designed to be painted not chromed then a different steel type may have been used to what would normaly be used for chrome wheels. galvanising steel seems to make it more brittlec chromeing seems to do what ever it wants harden or soften the base material unless its treated right

but think of the wheelspin on a set of stock 13" tyres...............

you could always do what i did and look for a rusted out turbo L series then buy it for a song (or a couple of dozen...)

21 ft-lb 43.5 ft-lb 47 ft-lb

i don't think we got the "spider" intake here, i think that its something like the ea82t manifold with 4 inlet runners i.e, one to each cylinder

just reading through this thread give me the feeling that some ppl are a bit set against diesels due to bad experiances with the older US domestic diesels. im in New Zealand where about 40% of light vehicals are diesel and it always surprises me to hear (from america mainly) the same old complaints about noise low rpm redline and lack of power compared to a petrol engine. nissan produced a motor called the LD28 a 2800cc 6 cyl that redlines at 5000rpm for the early'r versions and 5500rpm for the later ones produces 100hp NA (turbo version made alot more) and does't sound bad ,actualy sounds sounds real smooth and throaty if the right exhaust on it. and it gets 35mpg in something with the aerodymamics of a brick how do i know? i got one in my work truck and wouldn't swap it for anything( exept maybe a dodge viper motor )

check you front torsion bar bolts where it bolts onto the swing arm my'n rattled and clattered like your describeing getting worse all the time till i found what the problem was, they weren't very loose i only got about half a turn out of them before they were locked up again (then i undid them and loktighted them) i thought it was CV's or maybe the swingarm bush

if my rusty memory serves me right i seem to remember working out that with a matched engine and blower (as in 2 liter engine & a 2 liter per revolution SC) every time you increase the blower speed by a full ratio ( i.e 1:1 to 2:1) you should gain 14.7 psi of boost ( i know, i know, blowers arn't 100% efficiant....so you won't get that in the real world ) in theory. reddevil, what the hell kind of intercooler did you have, thats the worst pressure drop iv'e ever heard of, a couple of psi is normal but a 50% loss????

well i've put carb pistons in a turbo now i gotta see how it go's

me too...out of sight is out of the cops ticket book

just one question...........why?

i did super' a ea81, then i got greedy with the wanting more boost and it grenaded shortly after.....however it was on carb pistons and im pretty sure it went lean possibly due to it outstriping the amount of fuel my lpg regulator could supply. also got told in no uncertain terms by a 'orifice' of the law that i wasn't allowed it unless it was a certified mod' , that cost $300 that i didn't have at the time. that said,it went like a rocket untill i wanted "more" . one thing to think about if your racing is weight, a Rootes type blower is about 3-4 times as heavy as a turbo of the same realistic capability i had an SC12 off a 4agze......be warned if you are going to try a toyota blower that you can't run petrol through them as it toasts the seals in real short order

i'll try to go with what i've got first.....but if that dosen't work then i might have to take you up on that

will do

tyre shine?? TIRE SHINE????!!!!!!! phillistine............