LPGsuperchargedBrumby

subaru used to assemble cars in NZ..i know cos i lived in the same town as the assembly plant(Waitara-of golfclub&policemen fame), they equipped some L-series stationwagons with 1600's so and it seems coupes as well.... they also did some brumbys with ea82's as special orders and at least 1 ea82t ute also special order 478.hhttp://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/auction-44620tm a 1600 coupe for sale

it would be easy'er if you got a ej 5spd D/R

the 5spd leone box bolts in if you use the leone gearbox mount crossmember and the leone clutch disc

does the 4spd D/R diff interchange with 5spd diff? as a LSD in the front of the Brumby would rock on gravel

thats one fast deer.........

i ran a supercharger off a toyota for awhile setup to run 6psi and that ran great reset it to 8psi and holed a piston due to it leaning out....i think..

just one thing to consider is that with oil squirters is that it tends to make motors blow smoke early'r than motors without them. mitzy's are known for this here....but the bores are ok if their pulled down. i think that with more oil to deal with the oil ring have a harder job working properly

ea-81 is 28 inchs wide if i remember right (ea82 is 31 or 32 inchs)

their called Hot-dogs or Coby's here

does anyone know if a primary turbo off a twin turbo ej20 would work as the turbo on an ea81/82? i figger that if the primary ej turbo spools at low rpm thru to midrange then it should do the same on a ea...low rpm thru to top end due to the ea's lower rpm redline

like the title says,im wanting to know what heads will swap with what...am i right in thinking all sohc heads will swap with all other sohc heads and that its the same with dohc heads...but that sohc and dohc won't interchange with each other. i more interested in sohc stuff but it would be nice to know if i could slot sohc heads on a dohc block, as the dohc blocks a way easy'r to get hold of

yeah you can convert a FI system to LPG... you need emulators that (normally) wire in on the back of the injectors ,emulators shut off the power to the injector to shut the fuel off while at the same time telling the ECU that the injector is working like it should

try advancing the timing a little bit at a time, you should be able to get most of the loss of power back

one thing that ppl never seem to take into consideration in discussions like this is that its only petrol vapor that burns not microscopic droplets of petrol. petrol is like most liquids in that the more vacuum it is subject to the more it transforms into vapour so 3000rpm at nearly closed throttle should be more economical that 2500rpm and half throttle...in theory it should work even better in an injected motor thats running closed loop and reading fuel/air on the O2 sensor.

same here.....and i wouldn't want an LPG or any other type of fuel ank ahead of me if i smack into something anyway

carbed is so much easy'r cos you don't have fool the ecu into thinking that the petrol injectors are doing their job when your running on LPG

the main loss of power on an lpg converted engine is on a carburated motor that still has the petrol carb fitted with a LPG mixer/ventury on top as that makes 2 venturys that the intake air has to pass through ....if you can go dedicated LPG with a LPG carburetor there should be no loss of power . my current homemade LPG carb is a ea82t throttle body with a 46mm mixing ring on top, its mounted on an adapter mount in place of the stock hitachi carb on a ea81 . im thinking that the 46mm mixer is a little on the large side as i still have some issues at idle(like having to set the idle at about 1100 rpm to maintain enough ventury vacuum to draw gas through so it will idle consistantly,however i have a 43mm mixer that im going to fit when i get time that should sort that problem out) but its better than the previous carb i had on there as that was off a 4.1L six cyl and did some really weird things due to lack of intake air volume being draw by the motor at idle and low revs

one bonus with LPG is that you can advance the ignition timing a fair bit, i've run as high as 22 deg base with no problems on my current motor. im running around 18 deg at the moment

just remember the aircon sucks a sackfull of power so while i think it would work to cool the intake air i think you would end up with no more overall power due to the the power required to run the aircon,than if you weren't intercooled at all

some kinda graphite compound i think

try putting some weight in the back....it always works for me

hell YEAH thats how its mean't to be done!!!!!! just one question... what breed of carb/reg' are you running on it? i have just taken the ABER (impco type) carb off my ute and replaced it with a 46mm gas mixer fitted to a ea82t throttle body (51mm butterfly ) because the ABER is just a bit oversize for a 1.8L (it came off a 4.1L foulcoon) and has always done some annoying stuff at idle and just above

i have run it in my other brumby for awhile now ,i get about 100km more per tank on average i get about 500km without ,and 580-600km with acetone @ 4 oz per 50 liter tank doesen't seem to have done any damage so far

well i just got round to pulling the instrument cluster out and removing the speedo to try see what the problem is..and i think i found the problem, it seems the bush that holds the bit that the drive cable goes into has worn (if i pushed it foward and moved the needle with my finger the needle would stay where i had pushed it to untill i released the pressure on the socket that drive cable fits into) and was allowing the rear(cable side) of the magnetic drive to interfere with the front(needle side) of the mag' drive, in turn pushing it into its bush at the front causeing it to be too hard for the magnetic drive to turn (and in my case too hard for the return spring to return) The FIX with the speedo out of the instrument panel i removed the tripmeter and pulled off the needle and removed the plate with all the numbers. On my speedo the front bush is adjustable(via a bloody fiddly little nut) i loosened the locking nut and screwed the bush out about 2 turns of its reeeally fine thread. put it all back together to test it and it works like a swiss....speedo...

i'd be more interested in a Freedom Motors diesel rotary 150hp and its only mean't to weight 120lb