TheSubaruJunkie

If you want to turn... yes. -Brian

There are no larger brakes for our cars. So you cant upgrade. You can get rear disk brakes if you want, it helps... but isnt neccessary. Whoever you buy your lift from will supply everything you need, no additional suspension components are required. However, your Hatch is over 20 years old, so nows a good time to replace the shocks. Not sure what you dont get. -Brian

I tried downloading the pix, but they come over as the same small size. Maybe there's another link im missing. I have plenty of space online for images, lemme know when the .zip is ready. -Brian

Probably, but i wont see rain for a few more months. -Brian

Tom... anyway you can .zip some of those photos and email them to me? -Brian

Got other lights comming for the roof 6" round, 133watt spotties!! -Brian

MAV... SHHHHHH!!!!! So far, i have yet to get pulled over for not having front turn signals. Im in the process of locating some that I can screw into the bumper. I'll have to be careful when im wheelin to make sure I dont smash the lights. I have some other mounting ideas that may better protect them. -Brian

Yeah, check the castle nut on the end of the CV to make sure its tight. I usually stand on my breaker bar to torque them. -Brian

Ive seen a couple guys on here with them. Saw one in person when i lived in Alaska... so i know its been done. Cant remember the board names, but hopefully they chime in. -Brian

My timing belt covers are held on by zip ties now since most the threads came loose. Zip ties work pretty good -Brian

Completely understandable Mike. Back to the rims. Anyone have any ideas how to quickly remove the dust and grime thats built up? Obviously, i dont care about preserving the finish as I'll be repainting them I was thinking of using sandpaper, but man... thats alot of sanding and theres a couple spots its going to be pretty tough to get to. -Brian

Thats what i got, thanks Frenzy -Brian

That flange on the intake side of the VF7. It has the 90 degree bend, and the boot that comes from the MAF connects to it. The Flange is held on with 2 bolts, and i need a new gasket for that thing. I have a sheet of gasket paper, and i was wondering if the OEM gasket is some high temp stuff or not. The gasket paper i have is kinda thin. Right now, there is no gasket, and im using a form-a-gasket compound, and i believe thats causing some problems. Or maybe a way to order a new gasket, but i have no way of finding a part number for that thing. -Brian

Wow... i cant believe how good a shape the paint is on that car. Did you keep it in your garage for the past 30 years!? -Brian

Will we see your hatch at the show this year? -Brian

These are some good timing belts: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-1994-Subaru-1-8-GL-DL-Loyale-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8075637336QQrdZ1 Everything you need. I used this setup on my RX when i built the motor, and you cant beat the price. Alot of other board members have used this kit without any problems. -Brian

There are these shops that can extend or shorten your drive shafts. A job like this will require ALOT of custom work, so you will have alot more to worry about than just driveshafts. -Brian

I have an aftermarket 4 slot chrome grill. It wasnt made for the Subaru, but it looks like it will look real good. Has no frame tho, and if I mounted it... it would expose alot of radiator and the support. I was gonna cut the center out of the honeycomb grill, mount the chrome grill in it, and mount it up that way... but i'd rather spend all that time and energy painting my new rims I was also going to paint the gril and headlight bezels red to match the hatch. But I remember how much flak i caught when i painted the grill on my old '83 Wagon a few years ago -Brian

If you remove the CV and your bearings come out with it, you just doubled the price on parts. You will need to install new bearings and new seals and thats about $50-$60 right there. Not to mention another 2 hours to the labor. Really sucks when you remove a CV and see the bearing stuck to the shaft. Ive probably done a good 10-15 CV jobs in my lifetime, and 2 or 3 times the bearing was siezed to the shaft. All the other times the CV has come right out. -Brian

I dont see anything. -Brian

Funny you should say that Northguy. I sent the sketch to Mudrat 1st, to have him build the bumper... and he said it would take too much time and too much work. So I sent the sketch to Soobme and he was happy to do it for me. Kinda glad I dodged that bullet, but unfortunatly John accepted the sketch for my rear bumper. Which is now available on his webpage and ive never seen the one i paid for. But... enough of that. All i gotta do now is run some wiring. And I wanna do alittle painting to my fenders. -Brian

Pre-treat your gutters before you install them to ensure rust wont develop. Maybe some spray on rubber or some sort of caulk to keep water and moisture out. My rack is mounted with a gutter mount type system... and i havent seen any rust. But, I do live in California so rust is alien to us here. -Brian

Since ive had this bumper (almost 2 years now) ive never really put a good coat of paint on it. I primered it when i got it from Soobme, and good thing I did, no rust has ever developed. I got my order from JC Whitney (some off-road lights, and other goodies for another post) and i figured if I was going to mount these lights, it would probably look better on with a fresh coat (or 6) of paint. So I pulled the bumper, and sprayed it last night. Put the finishing touches on today and mounted my lights up: I kinda think the lights look better mounted below the tabs, in front of the bumper. They will be my driving lights since EA81 headlights SUCK... i figured this will get a better projection and maybe protect them alittle. We'll see. here's another shot I also swapped my grill for a '83 and removed the badge. I dig that look alittle better than the honeycomb grill. Next is my rack. -Brian

All you need is a 3/16 punch, 36mm and a 14mm socket. Thats if you do it the easy way. if you want to take the brakes off and all that... get a 12mm, 17mm. Theres a couple ways to do the job. Paying a mechanic $250 is one way. But you can get just the CV for under $70 if you shop around. Thats for a reman CV, if you want a brand new CV you can get them for $100 from autozone. -Brian

I love comming home to packages waiting on the doorstep!!! Came home today, and the rims were sitting here waiting for me. Now i gotta find a way to clean all the crap off so the paint will stick and look good. Pix soon. -Brian