TheSubaruJunkie

Look in the Vendor Forum. -Brian

Awesome, thanks Mike. I may have to paint some fenders too... so i will definatly go get me some of that paint. Im also gonna be getting the Kumho's for these rims. Maybe I should install my WRX scoop and make a twin of your Hatch? Do you still have that thing? Any chance we'll see it at this years show? -Brian

It would be best to contact them. We wouldnt know. -Brian

Yeah, you retain the EA81 4wd selector. But the rest is EA82 stuff. I thought there were 1pc EA82 shafts, but i could be wrong. I Got a PM from Jerry that cleared things up a bit. Hopefully Jibs can get everything wrapped up, tired of seeing his brat sitting in the garage -Brian

Sounds like the AAV was disturbed. It resides ontop of the thermostat housing. -Brian

Thanks Mick -Brian

Cool, so it looks like we gotta drill a hole. No worries, just thought things should bolt up. Thanks Guys, -Brian

I got spare axles IM not worried about it. I think i'll put the LSD in when i put the lift on tho. Im lazy :-p -Brian

Im gonna be putting my 3/3 lift on my hatch. IM wondering if RX springs will add an inch in effect making my car seem like a 4/3 lift? Has anyone put RX springs on their EA81? Do they fit the EA81 struts well? Also, would this effect my camber? I dont need to be eating away the outside of my front tires. -Brian

Also check and make sure your ignition coil isn't starting to die. That and your spark plugs are good and not creating a short somewhere. -Brian

Ok guys, who's done the swap? Jibs is doing it to his brat and we're having some problems bolting the shifter up to the body. We got the EA82 shifter and all, using jerry's kit. There doesnt seem to be any holes in the body to bolt the shifter mount to. What did you guys come up with? -Brian

Use a EA81 Auto. I hear they're better than EA82's. -Brian

I cant read a thing, even if I do download the images -Brian

We're trying to use EA82 stuff for the shifter... but the mount for the actual shifter lever has no way to bolt up to the EA81 body. And he's using the EA81 flywheel, so i hope those washers work right oh.. and do you HAVE to use the 2 piece EA82 driveline? Would a 1 piece EA82 driveline work. He's doing this to a brat. -Brian

Looks like you had fun. You should invest in a copy of PhotoShop and crop those images down. Even with my 21" monitor im scrolling all over the place to view them. Could only imagine the poor saps stuck with 800x600 res. -Brian

Russ start your own thread about your stupid camaro... And Phiz... the Subie seems to handle alittle better in RWD mode. Not near as good as my RX with AWD, but better than FWD. Cant argue the better gas milage, i averaged 20mpg on my trip to Reno and back. -Brian

You had a rear LSD Nipper?? -Brian

Every CV ive had fail, shows signs of failure at high speeds. Except for the clicking noises... but vibration and pulling usually occurs at freeway speeds rather than 0-35mph. -Brian

Morgan, if you wouldnt mind I would like to host this .pdf on my servers to ensure its URL will always be working. I'd also like to submit this to the USRM. Do i give credit to Kelley or to You? -Brian

Danny, PM Me. If briam doesnt want this set, i have one for you. -Brian

Try 22 years old. -Brian

Oh, and the castle nut at the end of the CV is 36mm. Only tools you should need will be 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 36mm and the 3/16 punch. You can get away without using a 12mm & 17mm and thats if you keep the brake assembly complete, and dont remove it. -Brian

Chances are its the radiator. No use inspecting it, its hard to tell a good from a bad one. Spend the $100 and just get a new one. -Brian

Lift your hood and take a look at the tranny. You see the CV joints attatched to the tranny??? That is where the pin your looking for is located. You can use a 3/16 punch to remove the pin. If you rotate the CV, you'll see that one end where the pin goes through has a bevel... this is the side the pin enters. When you remove the pin, you want to punch it out through the other side, the unbevelled hole. The lower control arm is the big chunk of metal that runs under your CV joint, and goes from the engine crossmember to the wheel hub. You dont HAVE to remove the brakes, but it may make it easier for you to replace the CV since this is your 1st time. Ive done it so many times, that I just set the parking brake and let the caliper hold everything in place... after I remove the pin on the tranny side, I unbolt the lower ball joint from the lower control arm and pull outwards... this is usually enough to get the CV to pop off the tranny. Then I take a hammer and wack the CV real good from the brake hub... once its removed, its just a matter of replacing with the new one. Good Luck, -Brian

Could be a tempermental CV joint. If it starts to bind alittle, it may pull to that side... then when it free's up it would be like nothing had happend. Would also explain the high speed and acceleration only part. -Brian