TheSubaruJunkie

Free rev too. I also forgot to mention the car bucks when i slowly accelerate. If I go WOT in gear, the car hesitates for a bit... then goes like a raped ape. No bucking at WOT, only if I try to keep the rev's down. Everything im reading on the net about this thing, doesnt talk about adjusting the float bowl. -Brian

Yeah a couple have done it. Zap has also bobbed his brat once. -Brian

I remember that car at the WCSS3 mick. What a rocket that thing was. -Brian

So I installed my Weber today. I got the carb from a Subaru in the junkyard, so I assume it has the propper jets. I read the Weber thread, and did some searching on the net about these things, but I figured I'd just throw this thread up here and see if any of the weber guru's could help out.. So I bolted the thing to the manifold. Plugged everything that wasnt used, put the Hitachi fuel nipple on... with the hitachi return line. THat way I use the fuel line and the return line off the same nipple. Figured out the throttle cable and turned the key. Amazingly, it started right up. I was stoked, figured everything was golden until I gassed it. As soon as I gas it, the engine falls on its face. If I feather the throttle it does alright, but if I go WOT from an idle, the motor sounds like its about to die. Mostly whenever the 2ndary is open, the car bogs down real bad. I read some internet literature on the carb, figured out how to adjust the mixture and everything... and i got it to run alittle better. But on the test drive, it just bogs out whenever the 2ndary is open. Everything I read was on adjusting the primary, didnt see anything about the 2ndary. But I did see a screw in the back of the carb that I assume is for the 2nary??? I made some adjustment to that but it did no good. Not sure what jets are in this carb, but I was gonna take the top off tomorrow and take a look around. Just wondering if this would be a problem with jets or something I can fine tune? Thanks, -Brian

You'll need a 4WD Wagon Gas Tank, the hatch's wont work and the 2WD wont work. LIke Chux said, everything else is bolt up. Oh... you'll also need a 4WD Wagon driveline as the Hatch's is shorter. -Brian

Ah... good point, i left them hanging there. I'll have to make sure i go back and take care of that. -Brian

Gotchya.... thanks -Brian

Im finishing up my weber install... last thing I gotta do is wire the electric choke? What do I tap into??? THanks, -Brian

You'll break your socket or ratchet before you break that bolt. That bolt is exposed to all the elements, so it will be kinda tough to move. Get some PB Blaser or some rust penetrant and spray that bolt down REAL good... maybe tap it a few times to help the penetrant work its way into the threads. Remember righty tighty, lefty loosy... tighten the bolt to raise, loosen the bolt to lower the rear end. -Brian

I dont know if I would trust those ones on ebay. Buy em and give em a shot. -Brian

where's this ebay link? I dont remember ever seeing slotted and drilled rotors for our cars. OEM will work just fine. If you want your brakes to look real cool, then go for it. Dont forget to get a can of engine enamel and paint your calipers too. -Brian

Cause super swampers are alittle overkill to some. I opted for the kumho since my tires will see alot of pavement driving, and when asphalt is 140 degree's it kinda eats away at tires REAL quick. Expecially swampers since they're kinda soft and all. -Brian

At $90 a tire, I'd rather go for the Kumho Venture MT's.... they list for $80 a tire at TireRack.com. Tread pattern on the Kumho is simular, but looks to be a tad more agressive. -Brian

Your hatch has a 3.9 ratio open rear diff. There are two types of LSD's that came in Subaru's... a VLSD and a standard LSD. The Standard LSD is better for wheelin, and came in EA82's as an option... came in ALL RX's standard. THey are ALL 3.7 ratio, so before you can use one you will have to have it converted. Really, all that info IS in the FAQ. There's even some info on converting a LSD in the USRM. -Brian

I dig the rear fender flares. Looks real good. Could use a super accelerated paint job now! Oh, and whats with the AMC Eagle in the background? Is that the lifted one your friend did? Looks like maybe he scrapped that idea?? -Brian

Use an older 5speed AWD tranny with an open center diff... then you can just weld that. -Brian

Your lookin at spending big bucks at any auto shop to have your stuff converted. Ive never used a conversion kit, but I did have a friend with some extra bottles of R12 and he recharged my Brat. One can was enough and i was amazed how well the A/C worked after that. Find someone certified, and have them buy this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/r12-r-12-freon-refrigerant-r-12-new-12-ounce-NATIONAL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46094QQitemZ8076912971QQrdZ1 Would make it alot easier. -Brian

didnt goto the PnP last weekend.... and prolly wont go this weekend, its just too damn hot out. I'll prolly be in the garage all this weekend anyhow. -Brian

50,000??? Wait another 100,000 and then start to worry And, you wont need to bother with timing belts or timing chains, those EA81's are OHV with the cam being run directly from the crank. It will last you well over 250,000 miles as long as you maintain regular oil changes. -Brian

That is no stock Subaru Body kit. Since it is an overseas car, its probably a one of a kind. He coulda adapted a BMW Kit, or any other kit for that matter... locating one will be hard to do. I didnt know your car was a sedan Eddy, those are my favorites -Brian

Yeah.... he's ozified. -Brian

Ive found 12 degree's is about as high as you want to go on a EA81. -Brian

If im reading things correctly, it seems the SJR Lift doesnt come with everything you need. Like the steering extension or rear shocks. Then you have AA, who have announced they are pulling out of the subie industry. And that leaves you with PK Davis. And I can tell you from past experience, that PK supplies EVERYTHING You need to lift your car. If you want to run 27" tires, a 3" lift will be just fine. My car was running 27's and I had to do minor trimming, but that was only to keep it from rubbing on full-lock. I have since removed the lift from my old wagon, and I have to say it looks just as good today as it did when i removed it from the box 3 years ago. I plan on installing this same lift into my current 1984 Hatchback, and I will be running 27" tires again. Should be fun, i cant wait -Brian

Here are some pictures I took when i installed my lift a few years back. It includes a layout of all the blocks that came with my PK Davis BYB Lift Kit, along with a couple installation pictures. http://www.subaru4wd.net/old/New/lift/lift.html Hope this answers a couple more of your questions. -Brian

Yes you'll need a steering extension no matter what. -Brian