TheSubaruJunkie

All EA subarus need to be turned in. You can buy the tool, or do what I did and make one out of an unwanted socket. Wear gloves unless you like bloody knuckles. And maybe some penetrating lubricant. -Brian

Shouldnt be too hard to replace the fuel lines on a brat. Jibs already has the interior torn out, so all the lines should be exposed. I would just run new line, rubber or braided (although, i checked and braided line isnt cheap!). Follow the old line, and zip tie the new line to the old, keeping the same path. If after you do that, and the problem still exists then start troubleshooting. You got that pump off my wagon up there right? Keep it as a spare, i know for a fact that is (or was) a good pump. -Brian

Must be nice to have friends. -Brian

Is it gonna move? Did you figure out what motor to go with? -Brian

May also be a bad catalytic converter, but I would inspect the fuel pump. You can get cheap replacement pumps from Autozone or napa. Check all the wiring to make sure it is getting good contact, if something wiggles loose it will take a min to drain the bowl then you'll experience problems as you described. -Brian

So... here's the plan. Im gonna take 5 days to drive to the WCSS this year, and I wanna camp and wheel all over oregon on the way up. The plan is to drive 4 or 5 hours, find a campsite, setup camp... wheel, goto sleep... wake up, wheel... drive another 4-5hrs, setup camp... etc...etc... So far, ive set stops for Klammath Falls, then we'll drive from K-falls to Eugene. So Im wondering where's some good places around eugene to camp and wheel? Then from there... we'll need another stop about 4-6 hours north of there. That will most likely be the last stop before Hood River. Planning on making Hood River on Thursday night where we can setup camp somewhere, wheel... that way we're not too far from the show and can arive Friday mid-day/afternoon. Taking suggestions, and also extending a welcome for anyone who would like to join us. So far, its just me and Jibs and possibly even NV Zeno. Thanks, -Brian

Problem has already been solved Rick, no need to go running around trying to get metal blocks cut. I could do all that, but i already have these blocks. They are already drilled and ready for installation. As soon as I get the 140mm bolts, the rig will be done and ready to roll. -Brian

Yeah, if i have a PM i get a nice java box with a OK and Cancel button, with the title of the PM and the authors name. Anyhow, lets just hope SHE see's this thread. -Brian

HAHAHA Rob!! THat is pretty ghetto, but it does the trick. And doenst look half bad. -Brian

PK your a life saver!! Speaking of shipping stuff, your lug nuts are on the way! -Brian

No extra here, and i doubt PnP will have any either. Theyre EA82 selection is slim, and you need to make sure you get the ECU from another MPFI EA82, dunno if it has to be turbo or not, but i'd suggest finding one. I dont think its your problem, and alot of mechanics in this area have no clue how to work on a subaru. believe me, ive schooled a couple mechanics in our area. if you want to take it to a mechanic who knows his shiz, look up a guy named Barsotti, he has a shop up in Newcastle and all he works on is subaru's. I'd suggest you listen to what the others here have said. -Brian

Matty, thanks... but i need these bolts asap, cant wait 6months for shipping from Oz Every internet site ive searched doesnt list anything long enough. Tomorrow when Im at work I'll start calling local supply shops, but doesnt look they even make them longer than 120mm. -Brian

Not if he doesnt come in this forum. Not everyone scans every forum, if you PM'd him he'd get it as soon as he logged in. Just trying to help. -Brian

Here's his profile Corky, last time he logged in was the 3rd... maybe you can PM him incase he doesnt see this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?find=lastposter&t=60886 -Brian

Mike, i removed the bar from the stock subie strut, and in the meantime ovalled the hole on the side i was pounding from. So needless to say, that bar wont work any longer. If i slot the stock bar, i will be left with very little material left on the mount itself. -Brian

ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not even McMaster Carr carries bolts long enough. All the have is 120mm, which is what im holding in my hand. -Brian

Thanks scott... just went to yet another hardware store, and they didnt have anything. Im about to measure this bolt, and then place an order with McMaster Carr. -Brian

SUBIEMAN COMES THROUGH YET AGAIN!! Thanks a million Jeremy!! From this shot, it appears the wagon and the hatch are the same in the way they bolt... meaning, the frame appears to match that of my hatch: I guess im just gonna go do it... Still wondering if any other hatch guys have had this problem at all. -Brian

Smaller? Then wouldnt I want to go with 9/16 which is near identical to 14mm? -Brian

Well, i dont think removing the bushing is gonna work. I went and looked at my frame, and it seems the rear of the frame is tucked up an inch, and that bushing is there to compensate for it. I wipped up alittle pic to show what im talking about: So, if i remove that bushing, and place a 3" block there... the torsion bar will sit 1" higher in the rear and im sure its going to tweak something in the near future. Have you hatch guys had to get a different kit from PK when you lifted your rigs? I cant be the only one to have run into this problem, and i dont remember PK mentioning anything different between hatch and wagon lifts. Im about to contact him, as I need to know what the thread pitch is on the bolts used. Looks like im going to have to order some new bolts. -Brian

you gotta love standard sizes... wtf 35/64... why cant everything just be metric!! Oh well, 35/64 it is with a 3/4 countersink. -Brian

The metal is so thin, i'd be affraid the block would collapse without the center bar as a support. I want to thank Jeremy (subieman) who went and took these pix for me. These are the same bushings on a '84 Wagon... i guess they are different for hatches! and I think im just going to remove them alltogether and see what happens. -Brian

Yeah rearward side... i got a buddy checking his '84 wagon to see if they have these bushings or not. If anything I could just wait till tomorrow and find a supplier through work. But i'd really like to get them today so i can get this lift done... and feel like ive acomplished something. I did take the day off to do this, would hate to have wasted a perfectly good 8hr working day on nothing. If anyone else is readin this, could you mind checking your torsion bar assembly for these bushings? -Brian

But these are the same bolts i used on my wagon... everything worked fine back then. Things havent changed, i made sure when i removed the lift, i kept all the bolts that were used. -Brian

Got some pix of some stuff. There are 2 rubber bushings bolted to the front of my torsion assembly. Not sure if this was there on my wagon or not, but there are bolts I can use to remove them. I know if I remove them, it will make the clearance i need to use these bolts. Im wondering if this is something Subaru added for hatches for some odd reason... here are the bushings in question: and One bushing is mounted to the underside of the torsion bar. That im not worried about... but the bushing on the rear of the torsion bar is bolted to the top. Im worried if I remove that, i will loose the inch it adds and will screw up the mounting of the torsion bar assembly itself. Anybody have any insight on this? Here's the problem im facing: -Brian