TheSubaruJunkie

Im pretty sure my 3" lift drops the motor 3" and the suspension 3" to retain stock CV geometry. -Brian

Take a look at how the cable is routed to the clutch itself. If the bends arent propper and its not taking the right path, it will make it harder to engage the clutch. -Brian

Yes, the tool helps alot! I'd suggest finding someone local to borrow one from, or maybe see if autozone has one you can rent. If the new engine doesnt have a flywheel, then your old flywheel should bolt right up. -Brian

It shouldnt kill the motor... but the motor probably wont run long enough to make it. My engine only ran about 2min after milkshake started to develop. Soon afterwards, the shake made its way through the crank and choked my carburator. I made it less than 2 miles. That was the 2nd engine to have done that... the 1st i had with milkshake didnt even run long enough to make it onto the car dolly we were using to tow it home with. We ended up pushing it onto the dolly. If you really need to drive it, drain all the shake and put in new oil before you do so. It may prolong the milkshake effect, depending on how bad the gaskets are. -Brian

Perfect!! I was thinking it would be great to get on some sand and play. Thanks for the tip, i'll look that up as well -Brian

No clue, but i doubt the ECU is your problem. Did you look up barsotti yet? -Brian

They would cost more than our rigs, and if you made the CV's stronger we'd be breaking diff stubs and other more expensive stuff. Do you have a supplier, or a machinist who can do this type of work? Have you looked into it? Stuff like this isnt cheap. While your at it, get us some lower gears cut for our tranny's. -Brian

Sure, but i dont swim in native waters -Brian

Yes, i am running 8mm wires for a EA82. And believe it or not, i noticed a difference after installing them. -Brian

Thanks Hodaka, i'll take a look at the map program and see what I come up with. Seems we're gonna have alot of time to kill on the way, im sure a short detour wont knock us off schedule. -Brian

Awesome!! Glad someone here got them. His thread came up the day I finalized the deal on my rims.... i was gonna try to get them, but figured the guy wouldnt want to hassle with shipping, and didnt want to backout on my current deal. Make sure we get to see some pix! -Brian

WOW I dig the marker light in the fender!! -Brian

Napa has never failed me. Except for when they hired that moron and now i gotta go back twice to get the right parts. NAPA = National Auto Parts Association, so they should carry auto parts there. -Brian

HAHAH THATS AWESOME!! Wet feet suck tho... next time, use alittle momentum. I sure miss water crossings. Here in california, when summer comes all the water evaporates and leaves nothing but dust and dry dirt. -Brian

Thats what i like to hear Craig! THANKS! I have map software that lists forest service roads, and Im thinking we'll probably stick to roads like that and maybe branch off on some trails if we pass by them. I'll look up these roads you speak of, and see if they're near the campsite i found. -Brian

Ball joints are cheap, do them when you do your tie rods. -Brian

Yeah i did the map thing, and it looks like Eugene is only about 4 hrs from the show. So i think maybe we'll stay on 97 and not goto Eugene. We'll see. Would still like suggestions on some places to wheel tho. Nothing too extreme, we still have to drive to the show and back to Cali. -Brian

All EA subarus need to be turned in. You can buy the tool, or do what I did and make one out of an unwanted socket. Wear gloves unless you like bloody knuckles. And maybe some penetrating lubricant. -Brian

Shouldnt be too hard to replace the fuel lines on a brat. Jibs already has the interior torn out, so all the lines should be exposed. I would just run new line, rubber or braided (although, i checked and braided line isnt cheap!). Follow the old line, and zip tie the new line to the old, keeping the same path. If after you do that, and the problem still exists then start troubleshooting. You got that pump off my wagon up there right? Keep it as a spare, i know for a fact that is (or was) a good pump. -Brian

Must be nice to have friends. -Brian

Is it gonna move? Did you figure out what motor to go with? -Brian

May also be a bad catalytic converter, but I would inspect the fuel pump. You can get cheap replacement pumps from Autozone or napa. Check all the wiring to make sure it is getting good contact, if something wiggles loose it will take a min to drain the bowl then you'll experience problems as you described. -Brian

So... here's the plan. Im gonna take 5 days to drive to the WCSS this year, and I wanna camp and wheel all over oregon on the way up. The plan is to drive 4 or 5 hours, find a campsite, setup camp... wheel, goto sleep... wake up, wheel... drive another 4-5hrs, setup camp... etc...etc... So far, ive set stops for Klammath Falls, then we'll drive from K-falls to Eugene. So Im wondering where's some good places around eugene to camp and wheel? Then from there... we'll need another stop about 4-6 hours north of there. That will most likely be the last stop before Hood River. Planning on making Hood River on Thursday night where we can setup camp somewhere, wheel... that way we're not too far from the show and can arive Friday mid-day/afternoon. Taking suggestions, and also extending a welcome for anyone who would like to join us. So far, its just me and Jibs and possibly even NV Zeno. Thanks, -Brian

Problem has already been solved Rick, no need to go running around trying to get metal blocks cut. I could do all that, but i already have these blocks. They are already drilled and ready for installation. As soon as I get the 140mm bolts, the rig will be done and ready to roll. -Brian

Yeah, if i have a PM i get a nice java box with a OK and Cancel button, with the title of the PM and the authors name. Anyhow, lets just hope SHE see's this thread. -Brian