TheSubaruJunkie

Every CV ive had fail, shows signs of failure at high speeds. Except for the clicking noises... but vibration and pulling usually occurs at freeway speeds rather than 0-35mph. -Brian

Morgan, if you wouldnt mind I would like to host this .pdf on my servers to ensure its URL will always be working. I'd also like to submit this to the USRM. Do i give credit to Kelley or to You? -Brian

Danny, PM Me. If briam doesnt want this set, i have one for you. -Brian

Try 22 years old. -Brian

Oh, and the castle nut at the end of the CV is 36mm. Only tools you should need will be 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 36mm and the 3/16 punch. You can get away without using a 12mm & 17mm and thats if you keep the brake assembly complete, and dont remove it. -Brian

Chances are its the radiator. No use inspecting it, its hard to tell a good from a bad one. Spend the $100 and just get a new one. -Brian

Lift your hood and take a look at the tranny. You see the CV joints attatched to the tranny??? That is where the pin your looking for is located. You can use a 3/16 punch to remove the pin. If you rotate the CV, you'll see that one end where the pin goes through has a bevel... this is the side the pin enters. When you remove the pin, you want to punch it out through the other side, the unbevelled hole. The lower control arm is the big chunk of metal that runs under your CV joint, and goes from the engine crossmember to the wheel hub. You dont HAVE to remove the brakes, but it may make it easier for you to replace the CV since this is your 1st time. Ive done it so many times, that I just set the parking brake and let the caliper hold everything in place... after I remove the pin on the tranny side, I unbolt the lower ball joint from the lower control arm and pull outwards... this is usually enough to get the CV to pop off the tranny. Then I take a hammer and wack the CV real good from the brake hub... once its removed, its just a matter of replacing with the new one. Good Luck, -Brian

Could be a tempermental CV joint. If it starts to bind alittle, it may pull to that side... then when it free's up it would be like nothing had happend. Would also explain the high speed and acceleration only part. -Brian

Then they weren't proffesional. With the oil pump, you may need to take a mallot and gently tap the edge of the pump to get it to rotate. The gasket maybe fusing the oil pump to the block. Once you have it alittle loose, just rotate and pull. The oil pump shaft fits snuggly into the block, and it is a pain to remove. Patience is key. -Brian

They obviously didnt think ahead 5 years when standard DIN sized stereo's where comming out :-\ -Brian

No, its not you. I also believe fuel milage is better. Im about to test that with a road trip to reno tomorrow. -Brian

Oh... and in order to mount it, i had to drill holes in my rear wind deflector, and bolt the hinges to that. It was either that, or drilling into the hatch and i didnt feel comfortable doing that. My method worked pretty well, and the deflector and mounts didnt have much problem holding all that wieght. One thing to consider, after installing the louvers my hatch struts were no longer able to hold the rear hatch up... with the added wieght. Also, the thing liked to rattle. It was hinged at the top and whenever i hit a bump it would kinda swing and smack into the hatch. I didnt care, as the in-car temps dropped considerably after installing the louvers. -Brian

I put the louvers from a Honda Accord on my EA81 Wagon. It fit, but the angle of the louvers werent designed for the slope of the hatch... it blocked alittle more vision that it should... but I was still able to safely view everything behind me. Here's a pic: I snagged a 2nd set from the same junkyard. I think i have them at my parents house... or maybe I took them to the dump. I got them years ago, and couldnt sell it. -Brian

Did your 78 have a LSD Russ?? -Brian

Will make a perfect wheeler!! -Brian

Yeah, if you start mouthing off or talking stupid, chances are someone will give you a negative rating and you'll lose reputation. However, if you are helpful and respectful... there's a better chance of getting positive reputation and you will get more points and more bars. If you click on the "User CP" link above, you will see a new chart for reputation points. There you can see what rating you got for which threads. Wont tell you who rated you, but it will tell you how many points you have. -Brian

hahaha... i abuse my subarus! Dont feel like doing a tranny swap when i install my lift, think i'll just stay open for now. -Brian

Briam, your inbox is full... you need to clear it out. PM me again once you do. -Brian

Didnt think of it that way mike... but im sure when its all said and done its gonna look awsome. -Brian

WOW THIS THING CAME WITH A WARRANTY!!! Thanks Jeremy, i'll remember that I think im just gonna stick with the open diff for now. After thinking about it, I can see how it will put excessive strain on either the clutch packs or the tranny... I can wait. -Brian

Mav, already ahead of you with the spray on rubber. IM gonna do under the doors and the fenders in either bed liner or the rubber. For the rims, of course I'll primer! And at least 4 coats of paint. Aerosol will do just fine, no need for roller and a gallon. -Brian

More fun than I'll know what to do with!! I cant wait. -Brian

Could it put more strain on the tranny if I install my LSD? I had to break a front CV today cause im too poor to buy a new one... so i will be runnin the Hatch in RWD mode for a while. I noticed the rear end likes to peel out alot, so I have this 3.9 LSD sitting here... and was wondering if it would be too much for the tranny if i installed it? -Brian

But white doesnt match the hatch! -Brian

Just got back from Autozone. They are able to order GCK Axles, and its $99 a piece with no core charge. Im planning on getting at least 1 on my next paycheck. -Brian