TheSubaruJunkie

Ramperf... did you get the message i sent you via USMB? I might need your assistance with some work I need done. Will be eager to talk to you about some head and cam work. -Brian

No one mentioned anything about an invasion. Not sure where that came from. I only mentioned that Im not going to allow a couple Pirate4x4 members force me to lock an imporant topic like this. Morgan, which IRC servers do you frequent. I am the SOP for #subaru on Dal.net and owner as well. Also a AOP for #alaska on dal.net. Being a moderator or op is not an easy job, and it can be tricky sometimes to determine when or how to take action. Anyway, we are off-topic, and going nowhere.. fast. Where are the rest of the pix from this trip. The most pictures ive seen have been taken by Pirate4x4 members. -Brian

Im sure i can squeeze another inch for the diff. Should I move only the diff, drop it an inch from the diff hanger? Or should I try to get another inch of lift for the diff hanger?? -Brian

Yeah, 4,000 miles is a long time. reminds me to do an oil change too the only problem ive had with my $30 kragen pads is they are squeeking. I didnt use any brake quiet when i did the job tho, might need to redo them. But the pads work just fine. I step on brake. Brat stop's. Job well done! -Brian

Shannon. IM using $30 kragen brake pads and $30 rotors that I got new off of eBay. Not sure if the dealer pads are much different. The piston tool is important. I made one, and it works pretty good. If you want, you are more than welcome to borrow it. I might find myself in your neck of the woods soon. -Brian

I was thinking of dropping the rear diff another inch to make for more travel in the rear end. I'll be working on modify'n the rear suspension to accept different shocks, or possibly some EA82 rear struts. Not sure yet, but if the diff is dropped an inch, it should give me alittle more travel in the rear end. I know I can get a Hatch Driveline from the junkyard, but the only part i cannot get is a gas tank. I was thinking of using a fuel cell. But those can get spendy. -Brian

It might not be nessessary to close this thread. Its too valuable to just let some Pirate4x4 members to come here and ruin it for everyone. -Brian

I will be converting a 2WD hatch to 4WD but will also be putting a lift on it at the same time. I know the 4WD and 2WD gas tanks are different... but will the 2WD tank still fit if the 3" lift is installed? Or will i still need to get a 4WD tank?? -Brian

Danger Ranger, im not sure what it is that made her so upset, but as a moderator, i will try to do my best to keep them in line. I got twice as much crap as that from the Pirate board when I 1st posted there, so consider yourself lucky. I am just as far from the con. I would like to make a successful run through Fordyce before i do though. -Brian

I am running 205/70R14's on my Wagon with a 3" lift. They fit perfectly without much fender trimming at all. They are a mud-terrain pattern, and were aprox $75ea and are 26" in diamter. If you are looking for a mud terrain tire, it will be hard to find a 26" tire for a 15" rim. But if you want street tires it shouldnt be too hard. -Brian p.s. The tires i am running are Cooper Discoverer STT's

Woody... if you came to poke fun, or critisize, then i advise you leave... or find yourself banned. DangerRanger, consider yourself welcome as long as you respect the members of this board. This IS NOT the Pirate4x4 board, and we do not tollerate the type of attitude the members of the Pirate4x4 board promote. Unless you have a bravo, or some constructive critisism to add, then leave and dont forget to shut the door behind you. -Brian

Clint... EA82 bars are near impossible to find in the U.S. Those roo-bars you guys have would cost WAY to much to purchase and ship to the US. The bar that Tony made looks great, and its real funtional. Where is the reciever hitch on your roo bar? Where is your winch mount? I would take Soobme's bar over your roo bar anyday. -Brian

Tony... if I were you, i would make some sort of snorkel or at least better protection for your intake. With that turbo sucking air in at a higher rate than normal, you want to make sure its protected and out of the way. Ive seen a lifted turbo wagon suck in some mud and water, and it wasnt nice. I cant wait for this trip. Gotta do some suspension and diff work, but i will be in that area on Thursday the 18th. -Brian

Bravo guys. Glad to see everybody made it through (or 1/2 way... whatever) and was able to drive home afterwards. I'll admit, I had my doubts. But only because I am most likely the only other USMB Member, other than NV Zeno and you guys, who have seen the trail in person. But I knew if anybody would have a successful run, it would be the hatch patrol and John's group Cant wait for pictures. And you know i want video. -Brian

Vibrating while braking usually indicates warped front rotors. Vibrating under hard acceleration indicates bad CV's Vibration all the time is usually unballanced tires. If its a bearing, it wouldnt vibrate until the bearings were REAL bad. By that time, you would have heard alot of grinding from whichever bearing was bad. -Brian

Did you already lift your Wagon Tony??? Damn that thing is looking good. Cant wait to see it in action. -Brian

If they are warped real bad, they will vibrate even without being on the brakes. My '86 Brat had warped rotors. Would vibrate REAL bad braking at high speeds. Wouldn't vibrate much braking at low speeds, but at low speeds the car would vibrate while driving. I replaced the rotors the other day and put new pads on. The car drives smooth now, brakes smooth. The rotors were so warped, you didnt need to be on the brake for it to rub in a certain spot... making the car vibrate. Could also be a combination of unballanced tires and bad rotors. -Brian

Me and im trying to get Andrew to join us. I told him there's a spare seat in my car if he wanted to go. Im planning on leaving Thursday the 18th from Sacramento, and that would put me in Grants Pass (or the area) late thursday afternoon or night. Still need to do alot of work to my wagon 1st tho. -Brian

If your on an incline, and you have the brake pushed in all the way, keep your foot on the clutch and it will hold the pressure in the line without your brakes on. In order to release it, just let up off of the clutch. Next time, leave the car in nutral and engage the hill holder. Then without your foot on the brakes, just let off of the clutch and it should release the pressure and the car will roll backwards. Do not do that if there's a car behind you Also. The hill holder only works if the front of your car is pointed uphill. It will not work to keep your car from rolling downhill face first -Brian

Battle Wagon... when I go hauling rump roast 35mph down a rock trail, the last thing i need to worry about is my front sway bars. I didnt even think about the wheel hop thing. Hrm.... ok, answers my question. -Brian

Everyone should be able to see them now. I had the settings screwed up. That black diamond looks sweet. Only the 2nd one i know about, and have seen. Chef Tim had a Black DIamond that was bought by Subaru Bob. I think that was 10/100... cant remember. -Brian

What if we drop our diff another inch or 2. I know we'll be loosing ground clearance, but at the expense of gaining better articulation. -Brian

Thats a pic of my wagon with everything. Only mod is the lift and tires. Miles, its scary travelling at 70mph and hitting a bump with no rear shocks. I know you need it for control, but on the trail when top speeds are aproaching 15mph, i dont think it matters much. -Brian

I was wondering if it would help the rear end of our subies if we removed the shocks. When I 1st put the lift in, i ran it for about a week with no rear shocks and it was real bouncy. After trips like this: It makes me wonder if it would make a difference. Maybe coupled with no front swaybar. -Brian

Get some 13" alloys and some sticky tires. I had a set of 205/60R13 old racing tires a friend got from Sears Point. Without power steering they're a bitch to turn, but they dont slip. And 13" Alloys should be alot lighter than those pUg's -Brian