subynut

If it's like the SPFI, it's right under the t-stat. Right above no. 1 spark plug.

I take it there's no fuel cut on the SPFI fuel system? This is VERY intristing........

Did you install that full sweep guage in the radiator or in the intake manifold? I mounted my guage in the intake. The fan kicks on around 215 and off around 195. I also mounted the sensor for the stock dash guage in one of the ports on the radiator and that shows the fan kicking on just above 5/8.

Ok, so how do we test it? Mine is doing the same thing. Runs rough when cold. Also does this hopping idle thing too: About halfway through the warmup cycle, the idle starts bouncing from about 1500 down to 800 then back up then down again for 5 or 6 times then the CEL comes on with code 24 and idles at 1100. Start driving down the road an it goes off. :confused: Great confoozed is I.

ooooo now them's some fine lookin' XT6s.

That is nuts! I love it!!!!!!!!! :eek:

Depends on what your mounting it in. If it's an EA82, the studs are already there. If not.......zip ties? I'm sure sombody that does will chime in.

Still nobody?

I've got a hayden electric fan. It's accually quieter than the clutch fan.

I can't remember what the model number is, but the DGEV with electric or water choke will not fit the EA82s that have power steering. You can use the DGEV on power steering soobs, if you put the carb on backwards. However, then you have to fab the linkage to operate from the other side. The manual choke just fits, from what I've read. There is one that effectively has the bottom mirrored, so the choke is pointing to the rear. I just don't know what the model number is.

Yes, they are the same tire. Just sold under the Mastercraft name. I've got the Mastercraft A/S IV in 185/80R13 on my Suby. They do very well on and off road. We put the Courser A/T on my Dad's F350. They are quiet, smooth, and grab excelent both on and off road as well. When I get a lift, I'll put the Courser A/Ts on my roo.

Spinin all fours? rriiigghhttt WJM: Yes, this thread does confoozes me, too. tailgatewagon: I think your best bet is the RX tranny.

Ya know, I've had mine work they're way loose after about 50 miles after a replacement too. I usually have to re-torque them about twice before they stay put. My driving is rather rough too: fast take offs, lowrange take offs at lights, drifting on dirt roads in 4wd, things of the sort. My first sign that the hubs are loose is my brakes start making funny sounds when I turn. Re-torquing the castle nut solves it.

Personally, I'd want: awd with diff lock low range with a minimum of 2:1 axle ratios are around 411 to 456s Now we're talking some torque multiplication! The only reason for 2wd is for smoking the tires to grab attention. Since the rear drivetrain is always turning, there would be very minimal milage increace. Course, smoking all four is much more impressive. hehe hondas kant do that. :-p

15? Wow. Almost makes me wanna fix mine.

Don't think so, it's more like the compressor kicks on for a time then quits. After I converted to SPFI, it seems to stay on when it's supposed to. I wonder if the idle was too low with the carby that caused the pulser to say the compressor is spinnung too slow and kicks it off. That problem seems to have fixed itself for now. Now, if I could only get the coolant temp down to a reasonable level. With temps in the high 90s, the A/C on, and city driving that temp goes from 215 on up to 240+ even tho both fans are running. I think it would keep climbing if I don't kick the A/C back off and let her sit in the shade and idle for about 5 mins then I'm back to the normal 215. But that's another topic to discuss.

Yes, everytime I goto a yard I'm right at the brink of tears cause 99.9% of the roos I see have been hit beyond repair..........snif..........poor little roos. OK, maybe I get just a little too attatched to a Subaru.

No probelm. Glad to help out fellow Suby owners!

I'm gonna try putting a new o2 sensor either just past the cat or right at the end of it. THat way I can at least re-connect my A/F guage and see where she's running.

Yeah, I did adjust the TPS according to the FSM cause she wouldn't drop below 1500 RPM. Now she idles at the proper RPM, but I have that dead spot and she runs rather rough too. Vaccum is wandering around 10-12 in/Hg @ ~800 RPM. Drastic? Nah........since I've converted from carburated, swapping throttlebodies is a snap: depresurize fuel lines, drain coolant a little, pull fuel, 2 vac lines, and a couple of connectors and it's out. Slice of cheese. But, you are right, if I can get that dead spot gone without swappage that would be ideal.

There are 2 switches: One is the 4LO switch, that's the one on the shift linkage under the boot that we are talking about. The other is mounted on the tranny, that's the 4WD indicator. They just to tell you if you are in 4WD and if your in 4LO.

Have you replaced things like, cap, rotor, plugs and wires? Which cyl is it?

I wonder if that's my problem. I got that sudden decel when I get off the throttle. I can accually feel when the idle switch kicks in and out. It's really bad when she's cold. I got another throttle body that I'm gonna swap and see if that makes a difference. anyways, back on topic...... Beutifull wagon, yourmom!

Sounds like you found the Lowrange switch. All that does is turn on an indicator in the dash to tell you that your in 4lo. Mine died a few years back, havn't found a good replacement besides the dealer, so, I do without. Ain't gonna hurt a thing.