subynut

I believe there should be a pair of connectors (one set white and the other green) right by the wiper motor on the driver's side. You need to plug the white ones in, turn the key on with the engine off and watch the LED on the ECU under the steering collum near your feet. Have you read the writeup in the USRM? Hope this points you in the right direction.

Might be a bit rough with the honda springs; there's no weight back there. Not quite sure as to what is involved in swapping the EA82 struts on the EA81s. Haven't had a chance at really looking over the differences between the two suspensions. I know MilesFox has done this kinda swap. Like I said, it may be too rough and cause it to just bounce all over the place. Just got back from watching Herbie: Fully Loaded. How dare they crush that poor little XT6!

Man, they really did a job on that dash! How'd you mount that in there?

Precicely. A welded diff is too upredictable on the street. You really never know when the rears are gonna let go. The LSD gives you better traction, compared to an open, without the driveline bind you do with a welded diff or a spool. It won't go as far as a welded diff will, BUT it will make your driveline liast alot longer. I've got an LSD in mine and I can't tell it's back there till I need the traction, then it's there. My brother's Suby is running in RWD and he's got an open diff. He usually spins just one tire. Now, when we took a trip to Tucson, he was buzzin about 85-90ish around a corner on the freeway and he saw the tach start to jump around cause he was on the edge of traction. If I was driving his car, I prolly would've felt the rear begin to come loose. It wasn't to the point of loosing it, but we were getting there. Needless to say, he backed off the throttle at that point and stayed around 80ish. Need to put 2wd or RX struts and bigger sway bar on the front and put a sway bar in the rear on that Suby. I think that'll improve it's handling by quite a bit. Ok, I'm done rambling.

Welcome to the board from Sierra Vista! Same here, no Suby stuff going on either. BUT, I will be going to the show this year.

Have you found out what that code is? What type of fuel system? MPFI or SPFI? Since it does it during warmup, I would doubt it's the O2 sensor. I would also check coolant temp, maf, and tps.

If the car only sees the street, then RWD is better then FWD: more control. Course, we all know that AWD is best but, if that ain't gonna happen, then use RWD. Besides, RWD is fun!:burnout:

Your welcome, always glad to help out.

It'l say LSD on the sticker that's on the back of the diff.

This one? http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

Personally, I would put an LSD in the back. That would give you better traction in the back without the risk of breaking something.

Oooo Pretty! My parents have one similar to that year. Man trans and red. One thing: You'll love the wide torque band of the EJ25. It ROCKS!

The spring end of the T-Stat goes down into the intake manifold.

Precisely. The indicator lamps for the H-beams sounds like somthings amiss in the dash area. Well, that's where I would start. Could be under the hood. Hafta start checking circuits. That remindes me, I need to track down that buzz in my tweets......oh what fun electrical troubleshooting is!

Ok, I checked out the intake gaskets and didn't find any leaks. Strange...me Suby is happy when the temps are below about 85. No hessitaion whatsoever. But as those temps climb, boy, does that car complain: "I don't wanna! I don't wanna! I don't wanna! " Crazy Subaru. On a side note, every once in a while, I'll get a good and loud backfire through the intake when I initally step on the gas. It only shows up when the temps are in the upper 90's.

Sounds like some serious electrical problems. First thing I would check is grounds.

Well, since I took one out, I figure Will will too.

oooooooooo pretty!

Yup, SPFI throttle body.

SPFI is easiest. The SPFI and hitachi 2brl carby intake manifolds user the same heads. MPFI would require swapping heads. SPFI uses less wiring too.

The front accord springs mount on the rear of our Subies. That'll give you a taller ride height and a stiffer ride when empty. I think the RX front springs are the stiffest of the bunch.

No, I'll check those out later today. I have rechecked the torque on them and they havn't moved, so if they are leaking some, it may be they just need to be replaced. When I did the conversion to SPFI, I didn't put new intake gaskets on because they were new when I put the new engine in a few months back. Maybe I should've.

Figured I'd give you guys a heads up. Tried swapping the MAF and the Air Control Valve with the ones in my brother's 87 wagon. Made no difference in my Suby and no change in my brother's Suby. So, I just cleaned the Air Control Valve with some carb cleaner (the plunger felt a little sticky) and adjusted the throttle linkage (wasn't opening all the way) and she seems to be running better. Accually goes to rich during WOT now! Still low vac and rough idle, but improved. I was thinking that maybe it's the cams that's causing the rough idle. Don't know. I'll see tomarow in the 95 degree temps if I've improved anything or not.:-\

Yup, what he said.^

This is an intristing thread. I have a similar problem in that she runs lean to the point of fuel starvation till about 4500rpm when she finally goes rich and she takes off. Just tried that maf trick and my Suby's rpm came up by maybe 200rpm when I unplugged it. Very intristing........