subynut

I lost me head gaskets and have wonderfull chocolate milkshake for oil. So, how do I clean out the oil passages and oil pan with the engine shortblock still in the car? My dad said I can do like 2 oil changes after I put it back together to clean out the rest of the engine. Would that work, or is there a better way? Besides taking it COMPLETELY apart? I've got the heads off and I am going to have them checked to make sure they didn't get warped. I am also going to have them check out the valves and make sure they are ok too. Also, what's the best way to clean out the HLAs? I did find a broken ring on one of the lifters. Thankfully, it's all there so there's no piece stuck someware looking for trouble. I think I found my valve tap.

That's intristing. I like it!

Ooohh, there's not much room in there. Wonder if there's room for a vlsd out of a STi in there? I feel a clutch type would cause too much understeer at highway speeds. anyways, back to out regularly scheduled topic! Yeah, looks like it would be best to add the gearing between the engine and tranny to compensate for bigger tires. Now, what will this do to the lifespan of the rest of the drivetrain? IE CVs, stub axels, u-joints, etc.. Gonna go figure out that gearing ratio while I pull the other head gasket off me engine.

Yes, it would eat the bearings in a hurry. Cool idea, tho. I remember seeing sombody put duals on a ea81 wagon just so they could run though a mud bog at one of those truck mud bog events. From what the article said, he did very well. Didn't get all the way through, but he got a long waze in! Now, if I could only remember which magazine it was I read that in........hummmmm...it was either 4wheeler or peterson's 4wheel&off-road.

What about just adding some gearing to get the rpms and speedo back to stock? If my calculations are correct, with 31" tires, if you could change the axel ratio to approx 5.212. That would put the engine back in the powerband. What if you put the difference between that raito and the stock ratio between the engine and tranny like Scott sugestted?

Why lift my roo? To go farther! Anyways, back to my garage cleanout project while I wait for my head gaskets.

YEAH! :headbang:

Awesome pics! I found some new desktop pics in there.

Yes, they do require an additive for the limited slip diffs. Easy way to tell if you have limited slip is to jack up both wheels and spin one, if the other spins in the same direction, it's a limited slip. If it spins in the opposite direction, then it's an open.

Dad's sportage was a 5-speed. I think low range is about 1.9:1. Yup overall, Dad and I were very impressed with the sportage. In fact, Dad was debating going back to a sportage. Then he test drove a 97 outback wagon with 114k miles on it. He decided to go with the Outback since he already had a truck. I've been toying going with a sportage. It does alot better off road than my Suby does, it gets the same mileage as my roo, and it's got a frame. However, the insurance would kill me: Too new of a car!

From what I've read, the clutch type gives better torque distribution than VLSD. Maybe it's just in my imagination.

4.11 gears would be nice! That would put my speedo just about right with the 185/80r13s on me Suby. OOOH, more torque. Let's see how many CV's I break! On question, would the clutch type LSD that I have in there now fit in a 4.11 geared rear dif? It should, am I right? There are times where having AWD is nice: dry pavement, rainy days, things of the sort. But when I'm on the trails, I want the ability to lock the front and rears together. If you could put the 1.5 low range and 4.11 final drives in the full time lockable tranny, that might be somthing I'd try. I live in a world of rocks and soft sand, I need my torque.

Yup. My dad had a 95 Kia Sportage that had the auto hubs die on him. I slid off the road because of those dead hubs. Subaru driveline is much better. Never have to lock/unlock any hubs and the maintenace is not bad at all.

That's what turning brakes are for. Accually, it might work with open diffs too, just not as well. Dunno.......

Great find, McBrat! I've always wondered if you could use the brakes to help out the diff. Coolness!

Well, engine overheating is not under warranty. So, I'm going to rebuild it myself. From what I've been told, it's just the head gaskets that let go. So, I spent the day cleaning out the garage, so I have a place to rebuild the engine. Oh what fun!

Na, rewire the spark coil to the seat. zzzzzt!

Mine was real close when I had the Weber on mine. It was tight, but it fits. I also had two spacers under the carb, that might have been why.

All you'll need is one vac hose to the ditstributer. All the rest can be removed.

So is newspaper delivery.

That prolly didn't help.

Thanks, man. I'm goning to contact CCR and see if I'm still under warranty. Guess I got her too hot.

Will more antenas fix head gaskets? Me poor little roo, dead again. Yes, it was great meeting you too! I really like your lift kit design. It looks like it works very well.

Yup, I beleave I lost the head gaskets. I cannot get her started: after noticing the spark pulses were not consistent, I swapped the ditsy to see if that was the case. Well, when I pulled the ditsy out, the oil looked more like a chocolate milk shake instead of oil. WONDERFUL! I then looked at the dipstick and same stuff: chocolate milkshake. Not as thick as the stuff at the ditsy, but it's there. Compression test time! Cyl 1: just under 60 Cyl 3: 90 Cyl 2: about 60 Cyl 4: roughly 60 also Now, the pressures used to be about 150psi all the way around. NASA, we have a problem. DRAT! :banghead::banghead: