subynut

I agree. Put all new wiring in. It'll sound better and you have less of a chance of burning a wire, or worse, fryin your deck! I put a Pioneer CD deck in mine. I ran both a hot and ground directly from the batt due to the fact that I have a 0.3v differance between batt/engine ground and chassis ground.

blown fuse? When I re-wired my headlights, I pulled one of the fuses (just out of curiousity) and I had that similar problem. Mine uses a common hot system. All the wires are hot when the lights are off and key on. Then one goes to ground when you turn them on. Low beams on: Low beam: low; High beam: high; Return: high High Beams on: Low beam: high; High beam: low; Return: high Hafta go out and check which wires are what. What's da year/model/etc? Specs would be helpful! :cornfuzz: :wave:

Check the fuse links themselves, too. My car was doing similar things except that it was load dependent. More accecories on, the lower it would drop. Found out the fuseable link itself was going. Couldn't find any new ones, so I built a new electrical sub-system to power the high current devices. Solved most of the problems. Only drops a little below the 12v mark now (in-dash guage). Batt voltage runs around 14v. High current devices include: Headlights Driving lights Fog light Wanna Be Fog lights Electric cooling fans Stereo To be added: Rear defrost Fan motor (inside) Prefribly the running lights and dash lights also The fun part? finding the ground returns!:-\

Knock sensor? Justa thought

Is there any benifit to adding one on my carbed engine? Since I like to do alot of crawling around in the Arizona heat, I wonder if that would B a good upgrade? Funny, I was just thinking of adding a oil cooler to help bring down my operating temps.

I was that way! Till I found a mud puddle. :bday:

Can U pull the grill off? Then U could unbolt the latch assembly. Justa thought:brow:

That may be so. However, those of us that have lots of auxilary lighting and loud stereos kinda need that extra juice. Ya C what I'm sayin'? he he hoo hoo SUBARU!!

Great ideas! Time to find some silicone and seal that ditsy. I think I'll try the antifreeze bottle over the air cleaner trick till I can come up with a good snorkel design. I'll also retighten the alt belt to see if I can reduce the slipping. I'll also add a switch to the feed for the e-fans. Cool:burnout: THanks guys!!!:wave:

Great ideas! Time to find some silicone and seal that ditsy. I think I'll try the antifreeze bottle over the air cleaner trick till I can come up with a good snorkel design. I'll also retighten the alt belt to see if I can reduce the slipping. I'll also add a switch to the feed for the e-fans. Cool:burnout: THanks guys!!!:wave:

Except that the voltage drops to about 9 volts! How little will the engine run on? Batt seems ok. Voltage usually runs about 14v with engine running over 1400rpm and just over 12v when enigine is off, acc on. When I hit the starter, it drops to about 10v. I take it, I just put a bead of silicone on the cap and drop it on? Sounds too easy. How do I put a snorkel on me weber? I remember Qman's snorkel on his hatch, Is there any closeup pics of his setup? Qman? Thanks guys!

:temper: When I splish splash through the puddles Suby does these things: 1) Alt stops charging. After a few seconds I hear a squauk and then voltage is back to normal.:madder: 2) ditsy gets wet, engine goes dead. Dry ditsy, all's ok. 3) Engine gulps water, engine will only idle till water is gone.:brolleye: how fix?:cornfuzz: Me loves to splish splash! But Suby says NO.:argue: Help? Thanks

Yup. Down here, amidst the outbacks and foresters, there's 1 70's wagon, 2 ea81s; 2 white, 1 red, 1 blue wagons and 1 blue turbo 2wd and 1 brown 2wd sedan ea82s. That accounts for all the ones I see. :-) Not bad for a honda infested city. Not counting my white gl wagon, my parent's red Outback wagon:burnout: and two of my sisters have a blue gl wagon each. Funny.....they are the same year. The only differance is one has a roof rack the other does not.

That's cute! Where'd U find that?

late 90's to current Outbacks down here. :boohoo:

Sorry if it's a little off topic, but I'm curious. What would B the better setup for my EA82 w/weber? Me's engine needs a rebuild and I was wondering which cam would be the better bet? SPFI? or MPFI w/o turbo? Almost looks like maybe the whole SPFI head would B the best setup. No yes:cornfuzz:

But will CVs ever be as strong as a straight axle? What ya need is the ends off a portal axle. That way you got some extra gearing to help ease the stress on the CVs and the diff's stub axles. The other advantage of straight axles is less surface area to hit. Since we have to drop the engine/tranny to keep the cv axle angles within spec, you got all that area that's just waitin to get hit. Ya know? Just looking at the system as a whole.

What about puting the car on a toy or scout chassis? Use the ER27, the d/r 5sp folowed by a real transfer case and solid axles. U could even go as far as using the portal axles from a Unimog. Just my 2 cents

OK. Thanks! Alrightty, Operation: Find best deal on rebuild kits!

Ok, looks like I need to find a set of spfi cams or heads. (HA! Down here? In honda infested Arizona? R..I..G..H..T.....) Ok, one vote saying I kant.......Can anybody else confirm the 1600 pistons only work in the ea81? I thought the bores were the same between the ea81 and the ea82?:cornfuzz: Looks like I'll be looking at a good week to a month for me. Oh well, I can borrow one of my parents trucks while I do this. :/ Toybuilder, what do you use to clean the parts? Gots the weber and 2 1/4" cat back exhaust w/turbo muff. U can hear me comming from about a block away. Since I am burning oil when I step on the gas, that means rings are worn, right? Thanks, guys! Subaru: There IS only one.

Me Suby is buring MAJOR oil! Like, 3/4 of a qt per fillup. Me thinks it's time to tear down the engine and do a rebuild. 204k miles, and with my kind of driving, it don't surprise me. :-/ I've never done somthing like this before. So, I have many Q's. What's all involved? How much time, on avarage, does this project take? Also, what kind of part swaps can I do to get more power out of her? I think I read (long time ago) somthing about putting 1600 pistons in to boost the C.R. And somthing about using the heads from a spfi ea82, cause they have better airflow or cam overlap, or somthin. (I do know I'll hafta swap the disty cause they're differant) Is this so? Any other low-buck performance upgrades while I'm in there? I'm looking to boost the low to mid rpm torque for better off roading and faster take-offs. Thanks

HEY! Another arizonian! Anyways, When was the cooling system flushed? I had the same problem, wouldn't warm up past 1/4 in the snow, and just under the red line in the heat. Replaced the radiator and put a Subaru 190 t-stat in. No more problems. Now runs just above middle normally and about 3/4 on long climbs in the heat. Hope this helps!

I've been having similar troubles here too. It would ping real bad then try to stall when I would initally give it gas. I backed the timing off to 6 deg btdc and that helped quite a bit. That hesitaiton is practicly gone and hardly pings any more. Also don't diesel when I turn the key off either. Ted

That looks cute! I like it. Good job!

I have a 5sp manual tranny. oops, shoulda been more accurate. Oh twell....hummmm hafta remember that one if I ever have a auto tranny suby. Thanks, ted