Phizinza

Maybe warm the car up, then plug a mains pressure hose into it, then turn the tap on slowly and see how warm it comes out? Experimenting is the best way to do it.

If they are made to blow the other way you'll have no problems. But if they are blowing against the direction of the car I would say they might not work too well.. I did try a stock EA81 fan plugged in opposite polarity and it seemed to work fine so you may be able to use one like that.. On mine I used two Mazda 626 Aircon fans, as they sit in front of the aircon cooler and they were smaller enough to just fit on the other side of the radiator. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_mazda_airconfan_stock.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_mazda_airconfan_fitted.jpg

They look sweet mate.. Although you need some mags on that thing!

Yeah, Hella's rock.. Pitty I had to replace my old hellas with narvas, but free can't be over looked. Looks cool with that winch.

Well I'm getting my random code 24 again.. It idles fine now exept sometimes when driving the CEL comes on and then if I put my foot on the clutch or pop it into neutral the car's idle drops to 400-500 and then in some cases stalls. If it doesn't stall the CEL goes out and idle returns to normal. I'm going to see if I can test drive it some more today before I swap out the IAC wit hthe one I got from the wrecker.

That's what I figured.. I set the screw back to where it should be (aka, idle "switch" is reading off when off and any throttle and it's on.) I think I just have a dodgy IAC.. But we'll see.. So don't touch the setting screw then? Or rotate the IAC? Why can you adjust them then?

Only got carbed models here in Australia (well there was a couple of NA MPFI as well.) But it was a carb model, yes There is a switch on the left side for reverse and a switch on the right for 4wd. I think the EJ box I pulled down had another on the left for the neutral.

I'm going to have to get a can of it and test it one some old bumpers to see if I like the finsh. I don't want it to look like glossy or matte paint. I still want it to look like the plastic that it is. I'll talk to my bro as he works in a hardware store..

I've heard tire blacker works well, but I just wanted to make sure from more people before I go embarrass myself at the auto store buying the stuff. Any other tricks people use? I've tried serveral application of Armoral and things like it but they only work for less then a week. Then the plastic goes all grey again. Also, what kind of glue woud you use to fix one of those "1800" stickers on the tailgate on?

When adjusting the idle on an 89-94 EJ22 is there a certain way it has to be done because of the throttle body screw and IAC adjustment? Or do I just set the IAC near the factory (paint dot) position and then fiddle with both the IAC and TB screw positions? Umm, in other words. If there is a special way to adjust the idle, what is it? Thanks

Picky now are ya??! hahah :-p I've got a pic of the other side of that gearbox and it looks identical to yours. Although the gearbox in my pictures came from an 88 Aussie delivered EA82 wagon so I have no idea if it would be the same as yours.

You know how I was getting a random code 24 and replacing the ECU fixed it? Well now it's back.. ARGHHHH! I'm going to replace the IAC next and see what the does.. I hope the ECU isn't dead as well as the other one now. And I hope it was just random luck that replacing the ECU and the problem going away at the same time wasn't related. Oh, and now the ECU isn't giving code 33.. It sometimes does, and then after resetting it it's random when it comes back.. I'm starting to hate this stock ECU... Maybe I should start saving for an MSII? hmm

Here, here!!! I should really build one, but I have too many other projects I want to start first!

Ok, couldn't add a attachment to my last post... heres a 5sp

Wired switch down to the left is the reversing light swtich I think Big round thing near the top is the spring for the shifter lever I think as well... Damn my memory, it's so bad at the moemnt. I'll have a look on my PC for a normal D/R 5sp pics.

Looks like the up pipe goes on both sides of the gearbox and has a evener pipe across the front..

I now have non-sealed beam headlights. So I am using in my inner (highbeam only) lights H1's and in my outer (high and low) H4's.. With the wiring fixed they are like running two extra 100w spotties, then add the spotties it's amazing. I am also now running 100w H1's and I just got some Narva Plus 50 H4's.. Should be good now. I have to adjust my headlights tonight. My headlights were getting 10.5volts out of my 12.8volt battery before the wiring change. Now there is less then 0.2volts lost. I was planning setting up a EA82 H4 headlight with both filaments running to see how long it would last just for fun. They do make 110/70 watt H4's as well as 90/70 and 60/55 (standard.) But in Aus at least only the 60/55's are street legal. I see what you are after, when I used to put my lights on highbeam they would have lowbeam on for a tick then it would go out and it did give a good wider close view. We use solar power in our house. And for over 7 years only had 12v. We still don't use a fridge, mircowave or any of that stuff. But we did have a 12v TV. Now we only use 12v for our lighting. I'll stop writing more paragraphs now.....

Are they saying take satellite TV just in case?? It's good to have the info in your face even if it is common sense because some "newbies" don't think about this stuff straight away.

I give you permission to cry

I had an idea of using a gear off the crack running motor bike sprokets and chain to the oil/water pump plus both cams. This would be all in a custom cast alloy timing cover filled with oil. But... I have changed my mind so I know do not need to reverse the direction of the engine. It was just getting to much for what I was going to get out of it....

I know in the EA81 switch all you need to do is break a piece of plastic off and it won't turn the low beam off.. This may be the same with the EA82's as well... I'm not sure.. If you want more light, I suggest putting in a whole to relay circuit like I did.. Cos the volts at the lights are low because of all the power going thru the low high switch. I'll get you a diagram I drew of how I wired my EA81 quad lights.. Ok, heres the original wiring plus new wiring.

I sware I've seen a car or two with the front end of that car, but I have never seen the name in Australia. We get Holdens instead of Chevy's here.Oil pump and water pump won't work in reverse. I plan on using the 5sp from a normal EA82. Or even maybe my FT4WD EJ/EA box. I don't think the crown wheel will go on the other side as the low range is there in the way but I will look at the box I have apart to see what can be done before I make a move on running the crack backwards.

I haven't ever heard of that engine/car? So I guess we didn't get them.. No, I really want it to be a Subaru engine.

I just thought... If I run the cams clockwise, but the crank anti clockwise the oil pump, water pump will be still going the right direction, this means they won't be effected! .. I think I'm on to something...

Oh crap... Why'd you have to spoil it... BTW, I got the plans off of ebay, I just need a reverse engine to run the contraption and I refuse to use honda :-P