Phizinza

Drifting is going to be bad for any car and parts... Same with burnouts. If you drive it "saftly" it will be fine I have heard. If you run a rear LSD it should be ok too, but the LSD puts more strain on all of everything.

I thnik the crank and maybe cam sensors have a few more lumps before TDC so the engine knows when it's at the top. I haven't thought about the oil pump yet, thanks. It would be a problem.. I was thinking of trying to do it cheaply without needing new cams. Only accessory needed is an alternator. And I'm pretty sure it doesn't care which way it turns. It involves VW parts, but still in a Subaru.. Ok ok, stop it.. This is top secret and I'm trying to keep it that way.. (I like to be the first :-p)

Ok, that was crazy and wouldn't work. I found the valve timings and figured it out.. So what if I ran the crank backwards, but then put a gear off of it for the cam belt to run the cams the same direction as normal? .....

Never mind about this unless you are interested as I no longer need to do it.. Alright, this probably sounds crazy but I have my secret reasons I want to change the direction of rotation of an EJ22. I was thinking (leaving the computer stuff out of it for now) all that is needed is different cams.. But then I thought what if you flip the rockers up the other way so the exhaust cam lobe is on the intake and the intake lobe on the exhaust valves? Are the lobes the same for intake as exhaust?? Or are the valve timings really that different? If you could do this you would be able to put an engine in the rear and still keep 4WD, although this is not what I want to do So, let me know what you think. Obviously the crank sensor and maybe cam sensors might need playing with, but I would think the spark would just need a order change. I am crazy.

That's what I done

I would love to se photo's of that yota of yours on those same trails.. I know my brother would too.

haha.. I like how in that second one the way the photo's cover up the damage but just leave enough so you know it s damaged.. Good selling tactic. The Legacy would be more fun IMHO.

I don't think his doing that anymore.. I was wanting to SC my EA81dc, but now I'm looking at two webers and very high comp

Yeah, I might try that.. I tested both of them (the TPS's that is) and they both had the same resistance as each other on all the pins but I'll give it ago..

You and that little roo do some of best subaru offroading I have seen. Great pics mate.

Sorry, I just think there are better things that could be done in your spare time :-p

See thats what I wanted to know.. Instead of spending money and lots of time getting rid of the code I can now look for other reasons I am getting hesitation when I go full throttle at anything below 1700RPM in any gear... And when I say hesitation I mean it never goes away, it just stutters until I take my foot off a bit.

Sorry, can't help with the photo, but... The part that goes through the hub (which the wheel is bolted to.) It is needed to hold the bearings in place. The rest can go.

I know I asked this on the other thread, but I think I needed to ask this question differently. All you converts out there (no, not the toyota ones:-p, the EJ ones) can anyone tell me if they got the VSS code 33 when they converted their EA to EJ? If you did, what have you done about it? Can anyone tell me for sure what the ECU in a OBD1 EJ22 will do if it gives a code 33? Sorry for doubling up the questions, I just figure I asked them wrong in the last post. Thanks.

I'm gonna have to get a manual for the australian model and see. I must be doing something wrong... But first, I'll have to work on that VSS

The 5sp I built has pretty nice synchros but I think I might try something like this to keep it in good condition.

Bad would be going away and not coming back.. I've been on my own board recently a lot so not a whole load of time here. But I'm sure they will forgive us.

Got this one for now.. I'll resize some others and post them here later this week.

.....__.... ..../...\... ...|.1..|.. ..-|.|..|.. ...|.2..|.. ..=..|..|.. ...|.3..|.. ..-|.|..|.. ...|.4..|.. ....\__/... Measureing between pin 2 and 4 gets those kilohm's I said before. Maybe theres some weird AUS spec thing going on. :-\ Can't see how two would be broken like that exactly the same

That sounds like a great idea. Good to see members supporting others this much. Well done mate. Nothing like watching the real thing

I like the red

Or buy a Toyota?

I'll be very interested to see how well the rear axle mounting holds up... Can't wait for osme action pics :cool:

hehehe

Another couple of things to add. I'm running a bottle of injector cleaner through the tank at the moment (in a recommended dose.) I also have found out that if I floor it at anything under 1700rpm it just splutters and won't accelerate, or decelerate. Still haven't looked into the VSS yet. My other ECU (which was the cause of other idle problems) never had code 33 and never had this hesitation at under 1700.. So it sounds like the code 33 is my problem... Would be sweet if I could get the computer to ignore it.