bgambino

reader says "MAP/BARO Ckt Rng Perform" What have we got here boys? 96 legacy sedan 2.2L automatic Sons first car...gone a whole 5 days before she threw a code...!

Hey guys I was wondering if someone might be in a position to help me Does anyone have some unused car fax rports requests that they are not using and can run this number for me? 1B7GL23V V V S173918 If possible and can send it to me at bgambino@pawling.com Many thanks Bill

98 GT automatic shifts fine when cold...5 mins after warm up: shifts fine 1st to 2nd...then you have to let off the gas for it to shift into higher gear any ideas what could cause that?

thanks naru!

picked up a 93 loyale ea82 with 40,000 miles I think it has the original plugs in it they are BPR6EY11 new ones from 1st soob are BPRES-11 whats the difference between Y and S?

this vintage soob is amazing...(my first was an 81 DL EA81) yes, boxy, gutless, hard riding (compared to newer generations)...but what reliability! If subaru could have kept up this kind of reliability and simplicity...they would be more successful than they are now recently picked up a mint 93 loyale with 40,000 miles...only thing missing is 4WD--never thought I would own one of these ever again

okay...so I guess mine is in need of some adjustment with key off OR on and even with the brake depressed, the shifter will not move unless I press the black button on the console right in front of the shifter How does this adjust and what is the normal operation and why the button at all? thanks guys

93 loyale is this designed that it has to ALWAYS be depressed in order to take the shifter out of park? what a nusance...!

I hate to say this but I think the head has to come off....the easy out is hardened steel...I don't think a drill bit can touch it I hate those things too...never once had success. Call a local machine shop and ask if even they have done it...

I think this is the EGR solenoid? Could this make the car run just a tad rough? I bought this car and ran it a little up and down the street...then sat...and just did T belts/tune up/new wires/plugs/pcv/cap/rotor/water pump...all OEM Seems like a vac. leak (did not put a vac gauge on yet) thoughts?

Gary thanks very much please keep in mind that since you have a clear mental picture, your words seem to make total sense When you tell me to put a socket on the back side...I would have understood better had you said to do so AFTER it was removed from the engine...bugt i appreciate your help thanks Miles too...I appreciate the links

thanks gary can you clarify this one point? remove the 12mm bolt holding the sprocket on the shaft before removing the timing belt - or use a 1" socket on the rear of the pump to hold the shaft in place to remove the bolt. are you talking about removing the bolt/s of the cam sprocket? and how can I hold something on the "rear" of the oil pump if it is still on the car (only the front is showing) by shaft seal you mean the crank seal? Any coments about the size of the crank seal they sent me/? its the size of my thumb...could that be correct? I hate getting started on a job and then find i have wrong parts as for the oil pump sealing is the o-ring on the back like the EJ25? (I put ultra grey on the ej...do you do the same with this?) is the pump sealed to the block with just untra gray(metal to metal)? where does the mickey mouse gasket come in? thanks for clarification all!

It's been forever since I have worked on an EA82...I have a 93 loyale FI sedan. I am doing a bunch of part replacements..t belt, pulleys, seals, WP, etc. Does that small seal in the pic look like the crank seal??? That's what I ordered and thats what 1st subaru sent. Looks small but I have not taken it apart yet Also...I read here something about o-rings being replaced (behind the cam seals maybe??). Can someone shed light on this as I want to get all the parts possible b4 starting Also....I never did anything with the oil pump years ago on these (I didnt know any better and was a beginner). Do these need to be pulled for any reason like the EJ25 does for the screws/o-ring/new permatex? this is a 1.8 with 40k original miles (anyone got some extra carfaxes that could run a report for me--PM me if so...thanks) thanks guys

having driven soobs since 1980, I've done a few T belt jobs in later years on the GL's. I have not had one of these older styles for quite a few years and recently bought a beautiful 93 loyale with 40k on her. I bought a T belt kit with the pulleys from ebay. figured they are 17 years old and the kit was cheap enough My questions is...would the R & R and adjustment of the belts be identical to my old haynes repair book which only covers up to 1988? I would assume it would be thanks in advance

personally I wouldn't without it being in great sharpe a a history of good care reason? I am anal and would want to replace lots of stuff to avoid breakdowns later...t belt pullies...valve job, WP, hoses belts, wires full tune up...probably need brakes/rotors..... alot of work and $....what if it was overheated too much...I've had it happen...did the whole job and then found I needed a new block....

my son's first car I am about to put on the road...96 legacy L 2.2L auto. The ABS unit "went" 2 years ago....battery was dying and came to find out there was a humming sound coming from the ABS unit (front pass side of engine compartment). So I simply unplugged it. I thought maybe it's best for him to have ABS being he is a brand new driver...would a 97 outback unit fit? and what is involved in replacing it (i am hoping the electronic part comes out and no brake lines need removing) thanks guys And...what happened to the board for nine days???

car is just sitting (not registered at the moment) and some water collects in drivers side trunk well (where jack is stored). trunk lid gasket looks fine---I'm baffled how water can get in as it just sits there getting rained on...any thoughts (I'd like to avoid getting into the trunk and have someone hose the car down while looking for leaks LOL)

I have a 93 loyal I am working on..it's a cherry with 40k on it The radio is gone and so is the plastic factory face plate Anyone have pics showing how an aftermarket am/fm CD player looks and fits in that slot? thanks

I have had (for quite a few years now) an 85 MPFI engine with 10,000 miles on her. Those heads would also fit a turbo correct? But not a SPFI? MPFI subys seem rare Now the block itself should be usable for my 93 loyale SPFI car right? I was thinking of maybe selling the heads and keeping the block for me

hey guys got a 93 loyale spfi with a 34 on the ECM..."egr solenoid or circuit" Anyone know what that means? Is the egr valve bad? How to tell? Car seems to run okay. Bought it with 40k on it and had no spark...was a bad ECM. thanks

cleaned the contacts and plunger and back in business> I'm going to get the parts to rebuild it thanks all

it is manual with the leather apron attached to the underside of the knob. the leather collar rotates separate from the knob but not sure how to disassemble. I have another know I would like to attach

my neices car. I want to replace shifter knob...how does it come off?

as for changing the rear main seal... When I did a complete HG job/valve job on my 96 OB 18 months ago, I did not know of all the warnings about how touchy it might be. I got a PVC pipe fitting and just tapped it in slowly and as evenly as possible. I have no problems and would not hesitate to do it again. Be sure to observe/measure how deep the OEM was placed and install to the same depth Interestingly...while I have read posts from some about leaving it alone...I don't remember many posts from others saying they did it and it leaked (now, I simply may not have come across them is all) I would love to hear what Hondasucks thinks about this

excellent pics...thanks for sharing I will have to do my neices clutch at some point in the future...what can you tell me about the ACT clutch components (did you just get the flywheel form them or clutch and P plate as well)?. Do they feel much different than the stock subaru components when shifting? Are you happy with them?