chazmataz

not necessarily, some can and some can't. it all depends on what is making it pull. Example: tires ( these alone can cause a pull), yes camber, caster difference from side to side (this can be cause from a set back-one side is more forward then the other side, which requires an engine cradle shift, which some shops won't do or know how) and a sticking brake caliper. also sometimes loose bearings can too. oh almost forgot a bent unibody, alignment shops can tell you there is something wrong even though they might not be able to fix it. also want to add that if you do any offroading, i don't mean just bombing through the nearest mud hole, like over big rocks bouncing into ruts or trying to climb that big rutted hill. i mean some serious 4 wheeling, don't worry about your alignment and that pulling to one side, you'll just knock it right back out and by that i mean your caster and camber if you manage to get them set right. your the toe is the most important to keep your tires from wearing inproperly.

all i got to say, WOW, that thing is awesome. way to go dude.

i third that, just puttong my 2 cents worth in. i had a front axle go out on me on my way back over the mountain from central oregon. i did the same thing only i did about 45 mph for about 50 miles and didn't have any problem other then when i would kinda sharp like to get into a parking lot at the rest area, then it clunk, pop and jerk the steering wheel around.

I hear you. i drove around earlier today and yes you do need to watch out, me on the other hand had no problem driving around. if you need to go out and drive be careful. subarus are great car to drive around in this stuff with.

WOW, dude that really sucks. hope nobody was under it.

well i'm not really sure what would be the best it would depend on if you want top speed or quicker take off. you will have pretty good take off with a turbo but with the turbo and the 3:70 ratio you will have higher top speeds. so it pretty much depends on what you want it to do. if you want to sell the non-turbo d/r 5 speed let me know i might be interested.

shawnsbrat it looks cool i like your intake manifold, it will be a nice rig when you get it finished. 75subie, nice gen 1, looks like its in good condition.

if he is just commuting in portland on city streets then studded tires is all he will need, the grades around here aren't that steep unless he has to travel over the west hills but even at that if he picks his route right it won't matter. my 86 wagon before lift with all season tires worked great around here in the ice in 4wd no problem, you just can't be stupid and get cocky.

cool pics, looking good. diffenetly makes it look meaner.

HA, HA, HA, HA! Thats awesome, nice pic.

dude, thats awesome a subaru pulling a ford. cool pics yep they subarus are an awesome machine. i amaze alot of people when i go out wheeling with friends. welcome to the board and tell your cousin to stay out of the woods. keep on wheeling:headbang:

if you have only chains then yeah but if you have studded snow tires they are better. if you drive causous and pay attention to your stopping and starting then you would be ok in just 4wd mode. i've owned my suby for12 years and never had studded snow tires or chains on it, i owned the chains but they never left the box or the compartment in the back. the only time i had studs on it was when i went offroading with some guys up in the mountains outside of ectacada a year ago on some logging roads. so its up to you chains in freezing rain will give you some traction but it will be a lumpy ride and you don't want to go fast. but you can't predict whats happening in front or behind you, there are fools out there and around you that can't drive.

that just depends on what the going price for those cars are in your area. here in oregon from around $500-1,500 then there some in the $2,000 range depends what the owner thinks its worth, if you we're here you might get around 1,200-1,500 all depends on the buyer too.

they ( Hi-Lift ) make a cover for it that is suppose to protect it, it covers the whole thing. i would also oil the working parts so they won't rust and keeps the whole thing working right even if its covered up, just in case.

yeah if you put anything else in youir master cylinder other then brake fluid you will be looking at some very expensive repair cost ( i.e. everything with rubber seals will have to be replaced-master, hoses,calipers/wheel cylinders, prop valve and anything else.), brake fluid is the only thing that should go in the brake system. what jeffast123 was refering to was the vacuum line going to your brake booster from the engine, thats the hose going to the black canister behind your brake master cylinder.

ok i've already done a post on here but i've since gone out wheeling with some people that i'm sure we're laughing under their breath about a subaru being out wheeling but they don't laugh anymore. they are like " dude that subaru kicks rump roast.

the most common hi lift jacks used are either 48" or 60" they should be enough to lift most lifted subarus off of their wheel enough to change a tire or get it unstuck. my swaybar in the front is unhooked and it will lift it and plus has more room to go higher. i lift mine from the rocker panel just before or just after the tire depending on which one is being lifted off the ground. i used my 48" hi-lift on a dodge 3/4 ton p/u with 35's and a 6" lift last night and it took the tire off the ground to get it out of a ditch plus we also had to use it as a come-a-long when his broke to get it the rest of the way out. if your in a situation i'm sure you will find a spot. i know i would if needed.

I Agree Hi Lift jacks are the only way to go. hell i don't have a way to mount mine outside the car so its it the back of my wagon along with one of my rear haft shafts and some tools and tow straps. if you have an offroad suby hell jack it up off of the rocker panels under your doors, if you have done any serious offroading they are dented up anyway and if they aren't they soon will be so it won't matter.they do have an attachment that you can get for your bumpers too. they are definately a tool you should have if you are offroading as referance to what OZified stated. i use mine everytime i go out and besides who would want to carry around a big ole floor jack thats only used if you get a flat tire and for nothing else. hi lift jacks are universal they have many uses other then jacking up a vehicle. come on look around at all the real four wheelers they all have a hi lift jack that should tell you something right there. thay can are your FRIEND.

I'm in gresham and usually wheel on wildcat mtn. or goat mtn. theres also a nice little park just outside of molalla i think its actually in milino, called wagon wheel thats alot of fun. then theres browns camp, been there once with the subie.

great i'm glad you got them done good job, chaz

the readywelder is designed to run off 2-3 automotive batteries no less then two from group24 deep cycle on up, the bigger the better. it fits in a plastic suit case style black plastic box and can run with or without gas. thanks for the info if i do have anymore question i will PM you, thanks again.

well the axle will fit tight on the bearing, you don't want any play there but i don't think you should or have to do any filing, try lubing (either with grease or a spray lube like wd40) up the axle shaft to help it slide in easier.

in those pictures they do to much work and take to much apart. this job shouldn't take any more then and hour to do.

is the axle shaft in the bearing they just won't go through the splines? if you have it that far you should be able to turn the hub to line up the splines, if not then take the brake caliper loose and remove the hub pull the shaft through then line your splines up and push the hub on and put your caliper back on. try this and get back to me.

usually the front end will have a shake down done on it by the person that is going to align it first before he even hooks it up to the machine, just because of that reason. you can't do a proper alignment with any front end suspension or steering parts that have excessive play or are just worn out. any reputable alignment shop (and that includes tire stores that do alignments) won't even waste there time hooking the machine up without doing an inspection first.