chazmataz

try bleeding the drivers front and passenger rear with the engine running and see what you get. but you need to remember that the brake pedal will feel differently when the engine is running versus when the engine is off and you have no vacuum. a bad booster is detected by hearing a vacuum leak under the dash particularly when you are apply the brakes while the engine is running and also when you apply the brakes while you are driving your brake pedal will be high and very hard to push with very little braking ability. one other thing to is make sure your rear brakes are adjusted up properly, this will effect your brake pedal feel too.

yes you can but you may need a special tool to remove the inner tierod, i haven't done mine in awhile so i don't remember but i know that some cars do. i do agree don't bend it back if it fails on the road you could crash and hopefully you won't get hurt or hurt someone else. check your local parts store you should be able to get a tool if its needed, just pull the boot and see.

Is there anybody else out there, i would also like to know and how they are holding up too.

Are you looking for help with your Subaru or your Dodge Omni????? the site that was mentioned on the post ahead of me is for Subarus. If you are looking for help with your Dodge you will need to do a search for a site that deals with these cars.

Oh yeah, wasn't thinking about that, forgot that it was a 2wd.

The tallest 13" tire you can get is a185/80R13 M&S snow tire they are 24.75" tall thats what i'm running on my 84' wagon on the white spoke wagon wheels. If you find the 4wd struts that are adjustable you will get another inch of lift out of your suspension.

NICE. I like the drawings. looks like a mean looking bumper in the works. make sure you don't forget the pictures when you arte done.

If you want this type of system, you would be better off buying an Outback or Forester. you would need the computer or computers, axles with toner rings and wheel speed sensors and a way to mount them, lots of wire or wiring harness(whole car), lots of brake line( each wheel needs its own separate brake line ( single circuit)not connected to another wheel like your car has now, I.E. frt-rr, side-side), and what ever control module or modules, depending on the system you went with, plus the drivetrain of what ever donor car you use. Lots of work, time, headaches galore and $$$$$$$$$. so basically if you want this just buy a car with it, its more practical. my .02 cents worth, if it means anything.

I bought my first subaru wagon an 86' EA82 GL D/R 5spd. in late 94'. Its been totaled once and sold it once, each time i bought it back a year later so i've owned it a total of about 10 yrs. Now its lifted. I bought an EA82 wagon an 89' DL 5spd. S/R owned for 8 mos. Sold it to my dad. I just bought an EA81 wagon 84' 4spd. D/R for a daily drive and ocassional mudhole runner. 2 months and goeing.

I'm not sure how far up the chain the EJ22 went but i know that my Mom's 91 lagecy wagon has it.

Good job, i Ditto that about seeing a newer sedan getting the lifted treatment:clap: . Yeah, bumpers and lights maybe a rack too, would make the final touch after the tires. The D/R transmission would give you a low range to help turn thoughs bigger tires that you plan on putting on your rig. To put in a D/R trans you need an adapter kit that AA sells and theres someone on the east side, i think its McBrat but not sure but someone on here will correct me on that. the kit is a drilled flywheel and an adapter plate, not sure what you would have to do about the driveline if anything. The 5spd. D/R tranys are in the EA82 model cars 85-89 not sure if they where in the Loyale style up to 93.

Way Cool Dude ! Nice job and good pictures, thats the way to old subarus represented in a magazine .

most likely since you caster is that much different from driver side to passenger side you might need to shift your engine cradle. If you have a up to date alignment machine (if its real fancy, like a 3D one) you should be able tomeasure for setback which will show you if your front drivers tire is not in a straight line with your passenger tire, if the line between the center of your left and right tire is angled then thats setback, which can be fixed with an engine cradle shift. Camber i would just see if you can elongate the holes at the top of your strut tower inward so you can move the top of your struts in toward the engine bay this will take some of the positive camber out which will help. You should be able to set your toe up ok though. As far as the rear Specialty Products makes a kit where you can put a cam in and adjust your camber and some of the toe or you can just go in and take i die grinder or a dremel tool with a cutting burr and elongate those hole to adjust your camber and toe. also btw there are no shims to due these adjustments. the only thig with 4 wheeling is you will knock your alignment all out again. i had mine aligned pretty good until i went wheeling at Browns Camp and my alignment hasn't been the same so i just leave it the way it is but you do need to get some of the caster and camber straightened out and for sure your toe too, thats an important tire wearing angle.

This should have been posted in the New Generation Section. yeah i would say probably your windshield seal is bad which might mean corrosion problems. i really find out for sure you will have to take out the windshield or you could always run some silicone under the seal sometimes you can get away with that for awhile.

I second that! The six lug conversion isn't that hard to do yourself and isn't expensive as buying 4 wheels with the 4x140 pattern. Plus, it makes a great conversation starter, it makes people take a second look at your car if there not already.

Cool Dude. Thats one hell of a bow wave you got going on there:lol:

Bump!!!!!!!!!

i have already put new on and put the old back no change from new to old or back again.

this maybe related to my earlier post on dieing and restarting. okay, i've been out messing with my 84 wagon about half the day, to recap i've put new plugs,wires,cap,rotor,coil,all filters, and fuel pump. also did compression test-pretty good (1-165,2-160,3-160,4-155) and the firing order is correct, checked several times to make sure. been getting 17-20 mpg, idles rough, so did some checking the passenger side cylinders (1&3) fire, drivers cylinders (2&4) don't fire, but they have spark. put old plugs, wires,cap and rotor back on same thing, you pull the wires off the spark plugs for the drivers side while running nothing happens still idles rough, pull one off the passenger side dies. so i'm thinking its a distributor problem. what does the subaru community out there think??????????

well,i'm not sure yet if it is, it just makes sense to me and like i have said its been awhile since i have, like about 15 years or better, thats why i didn't even consider it but if it does do it again that will be the first place i look and if not then the search will be on again. but like i said the first couple of weeks that i had it it was warmer and raining too. well hopefully you won't have to experience it, its kinda weird.

No i haven't either. well the time that my datsun did it it was forming ice on the venturi which distruped the fuel flow in the carb from the cold air, it had an open air cleaner after fabing a preheat tube from the exhaust manifold it went away, the coolant running through the manifold doesn't neccesarily help in this case because its above the manifold at the top of the carb. it has to do with the cold air coming into the air cleaner which if the preheat tube off the exhaust manifold isn't hooked up will allow this to happen. god i feel so stupid to not think about this before, like last night when this happened.

yeah i have experienced icing here before and that has even been in the spring time with a big v-8, but years ago i had that problem in the mountains at night with my datsun with a weber carb on it didn't have the preheat tube on it and there was a big chunk of ice in the carb. but as i have said i didn't even think about that but it does make sense so next time i will check. thanks again

hey thanks, i forgot all about that. it has been really cold around here lately and if i remember right it has started doing this since it has gotten coldernot like when i first started driving when it was raining and warmer, back in high school my dad's 66 chevelle did that in the mornings, dawm wasn't thinking, thanks i will check next time.

i have changed out both filters(as in by the pump and under the hood) thanks i guess i should have stated that.