chazmataz

leave the rotor/ hub assembly together don't remove the caliper it is holding all that together and it will be loose, its ok. now take the shaft and try and lineit up as straight as you can with bearings make sure you the shaft attached to the tranny stub shaft. take your socket put it against the hub/rotor assembly on the out side and hit it with the hammerwith the shaft lined up it should start knocking its seft together and evenually line up with the balljoint. after you get enough through to were you can just start the nut you can pull it the rest of the way through. then finish putting it back together. let me know how it went or if you need more help. chaz

in response to this: That's the silliest thing I have ever heard. Of course you can align a FWD car. Take a peek at your tie rod ends. You will notice that they have threads and a bolt along the shaft. That's where you adjust the alignment. If the guy at the shop won't do it with his fancy laser equipment then you can do a decent job yourself. I think there is a procedure for doing it manually in the "How to Keep your Subaru Alive." the guy was basicly telling you that it can't be aligned completely ( I. E. caster and camber adjustments can't be done, some cars can be and some cars can't ) but it can be aligned but its only a toe set which is done with your inner and outer tie-rods. now then the only thing alignment wise that will cause a pull is castor and camber, it sound like you might have to much caster on your left side which will cause it to pull that way. your engine cradle may also be shifted which wiil give you an offset in how your left wheel is inline with your right wheel this will also cause a pull by changing your caster degree on that side compared to the other side. a brake caliper that is sticking can also cause a pull that isn't even related to an alignment. of course though most cases it won't pull that way if you apply the brakes it might pull the other way. now then, with all that said you could also be experiencing a tire pull which also has nothing to do with an alignment and the way to tell is switch your left tire with your right tire but i do believe you said that you have new tires so that won't be the problem. now if you can PM me or post the specs off your print out and maybe i can tell you if there is a problem with the alignment as in your caster and camber angles or if you have an offset.

its to bad you didn't try G.I. Joes they carry some large sockets and i don't know exactly where in portland you live but on about S.E. 85th and Powell Blvd. there is a tool place that has new and used tools, they can be a pretty good sorce for tools plus any hock shop usually has a bunch of different tools too.

replying to: One more thing: when I was in there, I took a look at my brake pads, and the same one that wore out just recently, is almost gone again. It's only been on for about two months, and all of the other ones are just fine. What do I need to do to alleviate this problem? it sounds like you might have a caliper not releasing or your brake hose is deteriorating inside itself which isn't letting all the pressure release from you caliper which will cause your brakes on that side to drag which will intrun wear that side out sooner then the rest. i'm asuming that your parking brake is on the front like the EA82 you could have a cable hanging up in the housing or again the caliper is bad. does the car pull to the side that the brakes are prematurely wearing out when you let go of the steering wheel or can you feel it when you are driving trying to pull to that side ( the opposite caliper maynot even be working at all, too ) or it will pull to that side but when you apply your brakes it then pulls to the other side? thats another indication that you have a problem with your brakes. one way to check this is to jack of the car with the parking brake off and out of gear and grab the tire and turn the wheel do the same on the otherside if one is harder to turn or not at all then the other then your brake is hanging up on that side. hope this helps.

yep, its alot fast and easier, i use a pry bar to separate the balljoint from the control arm but hey ever works is all you need. ya taking the brake assembly apart is just a waste of time.

looks like a nice little trip through the woods and it looks like you had some fun. dam, i need to get out in the snow. goodlooking tree too.

those videos are rad, looks like alot of fun. i will definatly be at the next WCSS. moonrocks looks like an awesome place will have to make it down that way some time. thanks for the videos, dude.

well i'm planning on the blue tops to be running all the auxillary equipments offroad lights, inverter, radios, gps, welder and whatever alse i install. they will be isolated from the starting system ( red top ) but charged from the alternator like on a motorhome. atleast thats what the idea is that i have in my head thats why i'm asking for suggestions, comments or ideas, thanks for your response. chaz

here is what i would like to do: 2-3 sets of lights( offroad ), atleast one blue top optima battery where the original spare tire went ( already have a red top for starting/power purposes ), a battery isolator, cb radio + stereo and possibly an inverter for 110 voltage for accesories while camping. some of this stuff is not going to happen right away but some day, i'm starting to put lights on now for wheeling at night. i said one blue top optima but thinking of 2 to power my readywelder ( that i will be carrying with me ) for in field repairs. ok so now you know what i would like to do. i need suggestion on what to go with or what kind of combination you have on your rigs as far as power and alternators . right now i only have a new/rebuilt stock alternator and the one above mentioned battery and i just installed 2 cheap 55watt offroad lights and i'm converting my headlights from the GL to the 4 sealed beam DL system and some backup lights but i do have some KC Daylighters waiting to go on when i get my rack built.

the pictures are great but i just have a couple of things to add, first off the picture that shows the lower strut going into the top of the steering knuckle don't even loosen or remove either one of those bolts, adds to much work in my opion, go to the bottom of the steering knuckle below the axle where the ball joint goes into the steering knuckle there is a bolt that will take a 14mm socket remove that bolt and pry the ball joint away from the lower part of the steering knuckle but leave it attached to the lower control arm, this will allow you to swing the whole steering knuckle brake, rotor and hub assy. out of the way to get the axle out but make sure you already have the axle loose from the hub assembly. but do leave the outer tie-rod connected to the steering knuckle, it doen't need to be removed or loosen. then as the final step i usually will knock out the pin from the tranny stub and pull the axle out. no, you do not need to have an alignment after changing out an axle. oh ya, you don't have to remove the sway bar mount either you can just pry the lower control arm down until the ball joint pops out and the reverse to install. this should take no more then 30-45 minutes, hour tops to do this swap. i did both front axles in an hour at work but i had a lift to use but i have done the right front axle in the field without removing the tire buti don't have center caps either. here is a link to the explanation of how i swap out a front axle if requested i will put pictures up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47963

in response to this and the earlier post on KYB struts, i did some checking last spring even though they are KYB struts and adjustable and they came factory on the subarus, you can not get them that way from KYB. KYB has a contract with subaru to make these struts and the only way to get them with the adjustable spring perch new is through subaru, KYB won't sell them privately and doesn't have a listing for them in their catalogs.they aren't cheap either, i can't remember for sure but it seems to me they we're around $150 each for the front and $80 each for the rear.

just my 2 cents worth but it is your axle i've done enough of them to know by what your describing, if you let it go to long then it will separate while you are driving and you will either be lucky and it will stay together and come to a rolling stop or it will come apart and do alot of damage to your car as it flops around hitting everything around it and destroying it and possibly hit something to were it will lock up. i had one go out on me going home ( to portland )from central oregon one time as i was climbing up into the mountains it stayed in the socket so i was able to limp home to portland in 4wd but it shook real bad under load ( excelarating and climbing ) i replaced one in prineville before i left but the other one was bad too but could fix it had to get home. i would check it and get it replaced, soon. just thought i would share my experience with you.

ok,if the ea81 is the same as an ea82 style. ive done this alot on mine and i work in a shop. but, the easiest to do this which i have done in the field also and this is in reference to the front. start offremove the center cap so you can get to the castle nut remove cotter pin and loosen nut with breaker bar and you will need a 36mm socket, jack up remove wheel, under the wheel hub assembly there is a bolt w/a 14mm head bolt that runs through the bottom of the steering knuckle (which is what holds your axle bearings and rotor, etc. together). this bolt pinchs the assembly on to the balljoint remove it then you can pry down and remove it on of the steering knuckle, hit the end of the axle with a hammer as described from the previous post ( note if you don't have a big enough pry bar to pry the balljoint from steering knuckle then remove the swaybar end link from the control arm). after all thats loose the whole assembly should just rotate out of the way may want to use some wire or a bungie cord to hold it out of the way, then go under the car and remove the roll pin ( you will need a long punch of the right size, roll pin punch will work) the axle should just slide right off the splines and out of the car. reassembly is the reverse but be care and line the holes up on the new axle with the stub on the transaxle exactly before putting in the new pin or you will have problems it will only go on one way and one way only. the rear is easy as described in the previous postbut it will one go in one way to so make sure you have them lined up exactly. if you have questions you can PM me. chaz

Nice wagon, those swampers look sweet on there. As posted before what size did you go with and what size lift did you go with 3"? looking good, definately need some protection up front there.

dude, nice brat, they look so cool bobbed off like that, that looks like you guys had alot of fun down there. next time i go out i need to get someone to get some action shots they look better then still. i need to find a road like that up here.

i figure mine out once when i had my buckshots on, it was around 15 mpg. i used n my gps to get the miles i drove and used that to figure it out with. i figured its not good but not bad. need to do that with my new tires to see were i'm at now. new carb and new motor would probably bring my milage up.

looks like you guys had a blast, lots of snow up there. wanted to come up and join you guys, would have been my first hatchpatrol event but had to work, i always have to work on saturdays, it sucks. to bad you guys didn't do it today (sunday). maybe next time. man i need to go up in the snow. sorry for whinning to you guys, lol.

most of my friends think i'm crazy, but think its cool too. when i went with work buddies down to brown's camp and went wheeling with them, followed them on all the trails they we're amazed at what my subaru did, now they don't laugh at it as much anymore. there are places that i've gone where stock jeeps and hummers won't go, so thats impressive. all in all my friends think its cool but still say i should get a cherokee and almost everyone i run in to or see on the street give me a thumbs up or "that thing is cool".

Here is picture of my wagon taken today after some fun in a field in town.

awsome! man that looks like alot of fun, when i saw the post last night i was tempted to drive all the way down there and join you guys, since i had tomorrow off but i have plans to make bumpers for my wagon. hope to get down there sometime.

DUDE, that thing looks rad. wish i could do something like that with my wagon, at least as the door bars go. its to cold and wet right now to drive around like that up here in oregon, at least as a daily driver standpoint. i say again thats looking good, nice job.

i have always wondered which one would fit a suby if any then seen your picture of a safari snorkel on a suby and liked it, it looks like it fits fairly well on one. thanks for the info but do you have any pictures of the airbox and plumbing? i would like to see them if you do. thanks

awsome dude, nice job, the thing looks great. i'm thinking about converting my car to efi so i downloaded the conversion you posted. it sounds like you just converted the injection unit and wiring am i right, because i'm thinking about swaping the whole engine over. earlier in your post you was looking for a place for a second battery, well that shelve that your original spare tire went would be a good place, thats where i've been planing on putting a second optima battery along with and isolator to run my accesories off of. again nice job on your project.

on an ea82 dual range 4wd trans it is locked if you have it in 4wd and turn sharp on pavement the car will lock up and will hardly move unless you have some loose gravel, sand or dirt on it so the tires will loose traction and slip. plus if it locked on a sharp turn like that just try and take it out of 4wd, good luck with that. don't know about the push button 4wd, just dual range manuel shift. i have been there and tried that.

thanks for the comment it was a very fun day, i learned alot about what my car can do. on cutting the fenders, i used an air recipocating saw from snap-on tools and several blades.