Moodybluesr

step 1: NEVER USE AN EZ-OUT AS THEY ARE JUNK THAT ALWAYS MAKE YOUR PROBLEMS WORSE!!!!!! Since you already skipped step one, I would recommend heating the bolt up with a torch until it is cherry red, then letting it cool down (naturally) to room temperature (or overnight). Repeat this process at least once and the bolt should be able to be backed out with ease, assuming there is enough left to grab hold of with a vice-grip.

I tend to use a silicon spray lubricant for this type of job. It is a bit less messy than the aformentioned white lithium grease and sticks around alot longer than WD-40 does.

What you have is a 1.5 DIN size stereo; as they were kind of rare, you won't have much of a selection when it comes to finding an exact fit. Do a search on eBay for "1.5 din" and you will see what I mean. That said, any single din size radio will fit in with an adapter and give you all the features you want for less money, so you will have to ask yourself what is more important: how the stereo looks in the dash or how it sounds/does what you want it to do.

So lesbians can appreciate a good car when they see one... so what? Just means they aren't ditzy airheads who buy their cars based on how nice the vanity mirror is.

Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner (not fuel injector cleaner) is about the best pour-it-in-the-tank cleaner in my experience. Of course, even that is nothing compared to running OTC cleaner directly through the fuel rail, but you have to have a shop do that for you and can be $$.

I have had two Honda Accords with over 300k on the clocks when I sold them to their next owners. The 1990 EX I got off my brother, who bought it off my mom, had 336k on it when I sold it. Two years later the guy totalled it but said the engine still ran like a top... at 401k miles. That's the most I've ever heard of on a car that I know the complete history of and know the engine was never rebuilt; if fact, aside from timing belts, I don't remember ever having to touch that motor. It didn't use a drop of oil between 3k mile changes when I sold it, either.

OK, I'm game for the pic...

All four of those lights together will come in at less than 30 amps, so you're good there, especially if you split them into pairs for fusing purposes. (55+55+100+100) / 13.8 = ~22.5 amps drawn with all four lights on. My HR2510 (10 meter rig I used for CB) was fused at 7.5amps and I had it swinging about 45 watts on a Bird meter; If you aren't going to be running any juice behind it, you are fine on the CB end. The stereo will be fine as well, assuming you are just running a deck. If you plan on running an amp, you've run into a whole new monster, but again, you should be fine as long as you don't go overboard. Are you planning on running subs? Are the main drivers going to be pushed by an amp or just the deck? What amp(s) is/are you planning to run? There is a HUGE difference in rated wattage in various amplifiers, even within a brand. EX: I have an old Rockford Fosgate 500m (rated at 500 watts rms into a four ohm load) that will embarrass newer Rockford amps rated at 1000 watts rms... and will absolutely decimate cheap brand (Pyramid, Boss, etc.) supposedly rated at 2000 and 3000 watts. That said, be sure you have a good, strong source for the block; I'd say at least 4 gauge, maybe even bigger if you are going to be more than a couple of feet from your battery. Good luck!

I will be autoxing my XT6 this weekend too; not at the same venue of course. I'll try to answer your questions one at a time here... 1) The car will slide before it tips, and you should definately run higher pressures in your tires to make sure you are getting full contact during extreme cornering, braking. I would start the fronts out at 38psi and the rears at 35psi and adjust from there. If you know how to chalk your tires, that is definately a handy way to figure out where they should be. 2)The gains you would get from the timing adjustment would be negligable at best; I would just stick to stock in this area. 3)DO NOT run in 4wd unless you have an extra tranny sitting around adn the time to put it in. Stick to fwd and keep your car happy. 4)Maintain a good line, sometimes driving slow is the quickest way through a corner, avoid excessive wheel spin, try to brake while you are going straight, etc. I hope all goes well for you. The event in my area this weekend is not for points so I can relax and have a little more fun than usual. Let us know how your weekend turns out.

Like you couldn't sleep in the back of an OBS? What else are fold down rear seats in a wagon good for? :-p I just bought a '97 OBS myself and I really like the car; it should also get a bit better fuel economy than the heavier Legacy, right?

[rant]Honda finally got around to putting forced induction into an American production car and it's a &%$#@ SUV!!!!!! [/rant]

1lb-ft. = 12 lb-in. That said most applications that give you a reading in lb-in. are low enough that a wrench reading lb-ft. is not going to go low enough to give you an accurate reading. My generic 3/8in torque wrench only goes down to 10ft-lb. which means it would only be accurate(ish) above 120in-lb.

Check out this guy's site if you feel like tackling a custom fiberglass enclosure: http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/main/

Cool car... reminds me a little bit of my Hondamino (which is for sale btw).

The pinch bolt passes through an indentation in the ball joint itself. If you don't pull it out there is no way you are getting that ball joint out of the spindle. One of mine was stuck in there pretty good. I soaked it in PB Blaster overnight (including spraying some into the empty pinch bolt hole) and it eventually worked loose.

Patches? We don't need no stinking patches! sorry, I had to:banana:

Is the RX suspension the same as what is on an XT6? Huck made first gen Impreza struts fit on his by bending out the mounts on the bottom of the strut to fit over the XT6's wider spindle and drilling out the holes to accept the Impreza's camber adjust bolts. I took this a step further by having the spindles machined down to accept unmodified Impreza struts on Ruby Sue. Now I have my pick of several struts to mount at least in the front. I am currently running KYB AGX's with pretty good results at the local autox. Here's a pic from the middle of the installation process in April:

I recently updated Ruby Sue's car domain site so I thought I'd post it here. I pretty much just lurk at this site; I am more active on xt6.net though. Oh well, enjoy. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2214706/4 Oh, and here's a link to some autox vids from her first event in STS earlier this year. This is not our normal venue and I had just finished the suspension three days before the event so cut me some slack on my crappy driving. I actually have taken first place at my last three events in my class grouping. http://jleez.illinexus.org/v/parkland06/?g2_GALLERYSID=2928d717c03db35de229d24f9abd77f7

It comes with stickers so it must make your car faster!

Since the switch is opened when the clutch is depressed, you would probably just want to unplug it.

I spent about $200 running 2.25" pipe back to a stainless Magnalow XL muffler with an 18" stainless tip on my XT6 recently, but it's tucked under the car so you can't even see it. Of course, she's a lot lower than your 'Ru.

Gah!!! Why must all Subaru-related events be scheduled on autox weekends?!? :-p

Yeah. We get Redmeat in the a local free entertainment paper but I also visit www.redmeat.com every so often.

Chock full of Subaru goodness! I like it!

Looks alot like a Datsun B210 to my eye...