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Divisible_By_0

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Everything posted by Divisible_By_0

  1. I don't know why they post upside down I did what was said with the negative coil post and it does spark
  2. I have tested the wires from the dist to the transistor ignition unit that bolts onto the coil they are good and have no breaks I tested that the dist is outputting a signal when it goes around I have a new coil (do not buy Direct Import brand or whatever it is that O'Reilly's has the coil points stripped out taking the nuts off out of the box) I have the power wire that comes from IGN giving the 12v and everything is wired how the book says but I still have no spark I am thinking that it is the transistor unit but other forums that people have said they think its their unit everybody hops in and says no they don't die there is something else wrong
  3. So I have my test light out everything is wired up the way the book says for my 1980 1.6l EA71 auto choke 4spd M/T + side of coil to bat - with test light gets proper 12v with IGN on - side of coil to bat - with test light also gets 12v with IGN on I know that this should only get 12v when the dist fires not constantly
  4. So I pulled my E-A71 to reseal it. Put the engine back in and it starts right up. I take it for a test drive it will only go half throttle then starts to bog down so I let off and stay below that point and it coughs then shuts off and will not start again. I have replaced the spark plugs/wires and coil but it still has no spark i have tested the distributor and pickup. I have tested all the wires in between and everything seems to be as it should but im at a loss as to why it just stopped and everything else seems to be working properly.
  5. well that is a damn shame I am still going to use the EA82 rear diff as mine has issues
  6. the bell housing will be the hardest part, im switching over the EA82 rear diff I have heard that some lock when you shift into 4hi or low
  7. I heard about the "fatcase" ea71 and that the bell housing for that bolts onto the older EA71 and I am doing a body lift so the trans will sit lower that a normally mounted trans. will doing that fix the fitment issues?
  8. Im only looking for an EA82 5spd trans to throw on my EA71 till I can afford to swap in an EJ. I have been told that and EJ will ~fit with some modification and the frame rail fitment is an issue but everything under this car is so rusted out I was going to custom fab a chassis for this car so it doesn't fold in half while im driving and not deal with the sub frame and uni-body anymore.
  9. does it have a carb? could it not be set right or clogged or in need of a rebuild due to sitting for so long
  10. If there is something wrong with your engine that is not fixable Most people will probably say an EJ22 swap and you can keep your current trans if wanted.
  11. I have a 1980 BRAT with the stock EA71 engine and 4spd trans with stock carb. For now I am looking at just swapping to a EA82 d/r 5 speed an rear diff someday im looking to swap to an EJ22 but I can't find information on if that will even work in my year I am only seeing EJ swaps in 2nd gen BRATs The main thing I am looking for currently is will a EA82 d/r 5 speed fit the engine or will I need adapter plates and different bell housings and what am i looking at for swapping in the rear EA82 diff or should I buy a newer BRAT if I want to change things
  12. The floor pan in the brat was completely rusted out on the driver side and only in the rear on the passenger so a rebuild is needed so the trans tunnel can be made to fit the new trans in the replacement. The Pick n pull up the road has a GL im gonna go look at that and take measurements of everything and see what im gonna do before i purchase the parts car So if I go for an EJ what do you recomend I take it from
  13. I really want EFI, and the trans im looking at is a 5spd with 4hi/lo what kind of modifying are you talking about. DFOYL said cutting frame rails which can be done but there has be more options, how much bigger than an EA81 is the EA82? they have the same bore, the same stroke, and same displacement. the mounting points might be in a different location but I can't see the physical engine size being any different And if it comes to it whats the possibility of swapping over the rails from the GL
  14. cutting frame rails isn't a problem i can manufacture parts to fit or custom make a part
  15. I have a 1980 BRAT the engine has run sand through the carb and im assuming also the engine and the 4spd does not work for what I am looking to do with this car I found a 1989 GL that has every part I was going to try and swap into my BRAT engine, trans, rear dif, transfer case, and seats besides the seats what work will need to be done to swap over the whole or close to whole drive train? is it plug and play or am I going to need to bust out the welder and fabricobble some mounts or is this swap completely not doable I have never done or tried to do anything like this with a car the closest was helping with a 305 swap into a ventura with no front end and the mounts were fabricobbled by someone else who had done it before.
  16. So I have an old clapped out 1.6l and was wondering what would happen if it is even possible to slap a 1.8l crank into the 1.6l block mix matching parts as necessary to make it fit. would it even start, would it have more or less comp, would it be stroked?
  17. Aww man thanks so much it runs so well now it doesnt sound bad or shake badly on start
  18. The solenoid works it shot the pin across my garage
  19. As I am sure you have found this is my first carbed vehicle and I dont know what I am talking about, the idle is down to around 950rpm but the mixture screw is turned all the way in which would be it running extremely rich right? If I losen it any then the rpm goes to about 2k and it will not go any higher than that So I am assuming that I need to put the mixture screw back and move the choke to bring the idle down and all while it is doing this the engine is running on the choked side of the carb till I give it any amount of gas and it stays at that rpm but the other side of the carb starts using fuel
  20. is the solenoid the part withe the wire coming out of it in the last photo? whenever I turn the screw you say is idle mixture it just changes the rpm
  21. I have read that my carb has two adjustable screws one controls where the throttle return stops the other is idle speed this is the carb on my EA71 engine that long slotted screw under the throttle arm is the Throttle return stop that flat head screw is idle speed these are the only screws i see on this carb that dont take it apart sorry its rotated I cant figure out how to fix it
  22. I have found the idle speed screw but I cant not find the idle mixture screw to save my life, my carb matched every picture I have seen of the stock hitachi carb for the 80 brat but they show the mixture screw next to the idle screw if I lower the idle anymore it dies and my air fuel ratio meter says it is as lean as the meter will read
  23. My 1980 BRAT idles at 1400 this seems really high to me and I can not get it to go down (was at 2k when I started but now lowered when giving it full throttle it goes the chokes for a second and goes real hard) by messing with the adjustment screws on the carb and i cant find anywhere that says or shows how to tune a carb (this is my firs carbed car I do not know anything) I am also wondering what the air/fuel ratio should be for this car.
  24. Damn, do you know of any lockers for the current diffs or know of any that will fit?
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