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Found 7 results

  1. I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L with auto trans. I started hearing a really loud clunking noise (as the wheels turn) as I was driving near my house. I immediately took it back to my garage. The noise is very brutal, as in something is ready to break and break badly. The motor and everything jerks pretty bad with the noise while the wheels are rotating. First inspection, it had a really bad busted inner CV joint on the passenger side front, which I noticed had lots of play. Replaced with a new axle, but the problem is still there, no change at all. It really sounds like the noise is coming from inside the transmission, like the front differential is ready to go??? It only makes the noise when running in gear while driving or with all wheels lifted off the ground. It doesn't seem to make the noise / jerk when turning the wheels by hand. I took a rather large video (over 150MB) so I'll provide a link to the video below, any help would greatly be appreciated. https://sendvid.com/om7qyxz4
  2. My '82 GLF coupe has a wheel shake at highway speeds that persists even after new tires, brakes, brake rotors, repacked bearings, tight suspension, rack, tie rods and new front axles. I noticed the output shafts on the trans (5MT) are pretty sloppy and have a lot of movement. The axles also make sounds like they're worn out when slow speed cornering even though they are new. Anybody dealt with this, and is it possible the loose trans output shafts can cause a bad wheel shake at high speeds? If that is it there is probably not much I can or will do to mend it.
  3. (updated with the answer) Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue? ANSWER: I'm transcribing from the mechanic so this may not be 100% accurate: The transfer gear was split, which damaged/destroyed center differential (and the back clip came off). The transfer case damaged as well. The mechanic said it was just normal wear and tear, so I'm not sure if this had anything to do with one of the tires being replaced.
  4. I have a 1980 BRAT the engine has run sand through the carb and im assuming also the engine and the 4spd does not work for what I am looking to do with this car I found a 1989 GL that has every part I was going to try and swap into my BRAT engine, trans, rear dif, transfer case, and seats besides the seats what work will need to be done to swap over the whole or close to whole drive train? is it plug and play or am I going to need to bust out the welder and fabricobble some mounts or is this swap completely not doable I have never done or tried to do anything like this with a car the closest was helping with a 305 swap into a ventura with no front end and the mounts were fabricobbled by someone else who had done it before.
  5. So, the mad little monster, Tori, is having a bad week. On Monday I took her up on Reecer Creek Road, to just below the snow line. On the way back I was running low gears, and decided to put her in 4WD. When I recommenced she shuddered hard a couple of times, but then evened out and behaved. Likely my fault in some way. Wednesday and Thursday I ran several errands for my folks, getting carboys from the storage, running to get pickling spices and garlic bulbs from the store, getting the heater pan for the canning jars... just ran all over. The problem was that I was noticing more and more vibration coming from behind my position in the car. So, I took my dad out for a run on Friday evening, to get his expert diagnostic ears on it. He suggested I crawl under and have a look at the drive line, as it sounded very much like a U-Joint. The man is 73, he Knows. I crawled under today (we were busy after the ride) and started from the back, working forward. The CVs and Diff are 10-4, but the U-Joint at the Differential is going, specifically the bearings. Since I have no garage facilities, nor significant equipment sufficient to the job, I'll be taking her to my folks mechanic. He is reliable, and honest, and has his own little soob. Though, it's getting warm enough he'll probably just ride his bicycle most days. I wanna get the monster rolling again, ASAP, as I have a young lady I'm wanting to take out, and she's made appreciable noises when I've discussed Tori.
  6. Hello! My name is Corey and I live in Arvada Colorado and own a 94 Subaru Loyale Wagon and would like to beef it up. Get a lift on it maximize my engine power and upgrade the tranny/drive to allow for some off-roading and mudding. I invision a "mad max" style road warrior car and i wanna do it right but still holding on to some of my cash while i do it. if anyone has any information on how to: Lift by at least 4" Upgrade the current engine or suggest upgrade options Any information on what i need to do to ensure sufficient power for transfer case/drivetrain. I do have a second 88' Loyale I was going to use to cannibalize for parts which has everything in tact, just older. but again suggest what i can and cannot use from that for what I would like to do. thanks for checkin it out! - Corey
  7. I've been putting off replacing the front, driver's side bearings on my 89 4WD wagon for about a month now. The howling/grinding noise was pretty unmistakable. I researched the forum here before diving in to see what bearings were best suited for the job. As luck would have it there are some great resources here. Most notably, some info about going 'sealed'. I'd never considered the option of using sealed bearings and thought it would be cost-prohibitive. Well, if sealed bearings truly are better, it's not cost prohibitive if you ask me. Especially when you consider the job in the full context. Frankly, I hate grease. Gas doesn't bug me, brake fluid is fine, oil is no problem. Grease sucks. So, if I can avoid grease again, I'll be fine with a few bucks more for some bearings that are sealed. Anyway, I'm running open bearings on the passenger side now and sealed on the driver. I'll likely replace the passenger side soon but really I'm just trying to test the sealed units. Does anyone have long-term results on the sealed units? As for the cost... Part # AXS 6207 2RSC3 from McGuire Bearing Company runs 12.79 Each "Precision" open bearings from NAPA run 8.99 Each I'm assuming that since I'm using sealed units there's no need to run grease in the hub anymore and that may also mean the inner and out grease seals are probably less important now too. I don't think I would run without them obviously, but I suspect that it's not as critical to replace them if they're in 'okay' condition since the bearings are sealed. Anyone want to chime in with some pros/cons on this issue? If sealed works out, I'm never going back to grease and cheap NAPA open bearings again.
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