lmdew

Over on the passenger side strut tower on the front side. Look at your emissions sticker on the inside of the hood.

They are easy, if you get the stock plug Subaru Sensors. If you live in the rust belt, use some PK Blaster and soak the threads a few days before you want to change them. Get a 7/8" tubing wrench or the special O2 sensor socket and remove the old one and put the new one in. You have one on the front cat, just behind the axle on the passenger side and one on the rear cat under the car. You might want to clear the codes and see if they come back. I'd start with the front O2 sensor and then see if you need the rear one as well.

pull the fuse for the brake lights and see if it still happens. If pulling the fuse fixes it you have a short in the brake lights somewhere.

To bad you did not post last week, I was in Saint George UT, just down the road. Sounds like the IAC to me. No codes but when they stick it can cause high or low idle. Dose it have a 1.8 or 2.2 engine? If she puts it in N does it still die? What's the RPM when it idles? Should be lots of USMB members in UT. Larry

My 98 OBS is rusted in the rear quarters but the strut towers are solid. IMHO the problems is the 3 or 4 layers of metal that all come together here. Any moisture/salt that gets in there never comes out. If you cut and weld, you have to work out a ways from the wheelwell so you can get the inner and outter metal welded up. I have some rear panels about 6 x 12" for a 98 OBS if you need them

Yep, expect some lifter noise as it can take days for them to pump back up sometime. I run 5-30W and they have always pumped back up for me. If it's a car you are keeping long term it's nice to to the routine maintenace while it's out. - Re seal the breather cover on the back of the engine - Valve cover Seals - timing belt, cam and crank seals - Oil Pump Screws and oring - plugs Then drop it in and you are good for 80K. I've also dropped them in with just doing the rear breather and made sure it runs well. All the other stuff can be done while the engine is in the car. Your call.

To be safe, I'd get another one, used is OK as they never fail. Let it all the way out and then slowly compres it. I use a wood handscrew clamp. Put a little pressure on it, let it set, put a little more pressure on it, let it set. In answer to your question, if you compres it quickly it will bind a the viscus fluid inside stops the movement.

I got one and then instead of $20 they wanted $65 so I told the yard they could keep it. So much for that adventure. Larry

I do not have one but I could pull one from the yard in CO. Let me know if you want me to do that. I'm going Friday.

Not that I know of. If the ABS was not working the Light should be on. It just dumps brake pressure, if it's off all pressure is routed to the brakes.

I've been very happy with the Grip Force Clutch kits off Ebay as well. I've put 6 or more in and they have been very good. Have the flywheel ground as well. About 50/50 on pulling the engine or Transmission. If you have any engine work to do, t belt, seals... pull the engine. Seal the Breather plate on the back of the block while you have access to it. I like the aluminum plates but those are getting harder to find. The Subaru Stampped steel kit with screws are about $20.

I'll check when i get back to COS. $60 shipped, work for you? Larry

Work around the ABS ring, it does not come off without pulling the hub out. Make sure the E-brake cable is backed off then put the brakes together and adjust the shoes until they just touch the drum. There should be a little clearance. You can double check them once you have operated the brakes with the drums on by turning the adjuster through the back slot. Or, you could swap over to disk brakes. It takes the complete setup from a rear disk car along with the e-brake cables.

Make sure the 1" air tube to the IAC is on! If you sent dirty fuel to the injectors they may be clogged. After you cleared the codes, did the CEL come back on?

Yes, that's correct the non-pawl end of the spring just goes up against the case.

I just had to replace a knock sensor wiring as it was cut on the engine I got from the yard. I just pulled the 2 wires out of an old harness I had and then re-pined them in the connector. Easy enough to do and then you do not have splices. I doubt a knock sensor would take out an ECU. I might have a used one if you need one. It runs in the open loop until it warms up. Once warm, the ECU wants to control the fuel, ign and timing. I'd take care of the knock sensor, clear the codes and then see what comes back.

www.car-part.com is a good source as well for used parts from yards if you can't find one locally.

Put stabil in but run it as empty as you can. The new gas will seperate and water will be in the bottom. Or Sell the car and get another when you get back!

The racks are pretty rock solid. Make sure it's not the pump. I've had them side by side and I do believe they will swap. There is plenty of thread on the rod ends to adjust the toe. When you put it in, make sure you remove the little clamp on the lines and make sure you don' cross threat the hyd line fittings.

I'll have to dig a little to see if that is the one. Larry

I think I have one, if you can send a picture of yours. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

Right hand side of the Steering column. White Plug. I just put in a criuse system from a 98 OBS and it works great. Computer Brake and lower clutch switches vacumm unit under the hood Hose and fitting from the manifold Steering wheel control switch Cruise Switch. All the wiring is there, plug and Play

Any air bubbles in the overflow bottle? HG leaks often don't show up until the engine is under load for a bit.

Lower arms at the yard are like $20 and they come with all the busshings. Grab a good used one and bolt it up.

Just pull the TC and shaft and then drive the new seal in. You just have to make sure the TC is seated all the way when you put it back in. I always check to make sure if I push back on the TC it just hits the starter teeth and then I know it's fully seated. It will also pull forward about 1/8" when you bolt the TC up to the flex plate.