lmdew

Check under the dash and see if there is extra wires, I bet someone put in a Security system at some time and tied into that circuit. The Subaru Keyless entry system is a black box about 4x5x1. It's usually held in with zip strips. The good thing is you know what circuit it is. Now it's just a matter of isolating the short.

PB Blaster and let them soak. Once you get them out, you will have to get the bore cleaned up as well. Might be faster to get a new or used set.

Sure your black or green computer connectors under the dash are not still connected?

Pull the codes with a scanner. If you don't have one, disconnect the battery for a couple of hours. Put the battery on a charger to make sure it's fully charged and then hook it back up.

Fixed! Yellow/Blue wire at the radio is the ground for all of the backlights, Gauge Cluster, Radio, Heat Control, Switches on the Gauge trim. All good now, Thanks for the help and the wire diagrams.

I left the battery negative cable off over night and charged the battery. It started right up today. Zero volts on fuse 5 in the interior CB panel so I have to look at the wires. What can I say, college kids thought it was easy and they could cut all the wires at once, with the battery hooked up. Live and learn. Thanks, Larry

The steering wheel parking light switch is off. Once I removed his radio wiring the parking lights are working as they should. Thanks for the wiring manual.

I'm in Wisconsin and a friend has a 98 OBS that will not start. It turns over and fires but will not stay running. I can hear the fuel pump run when I turn on the key. The CEL is on, but I don't have a code reader available. Some additional background. The Son wired in a new radio, not so well as when they did it, the four corner running lights always stayed on. They had to pull the 15 amp fuse in the engine fuse box to get it to go out. They also lost the dash lights. The car was running after the installation of the new radio, so I don't believe they fried the computer. I cut out their radio wiring and that took care of the running lights staying on, but they still do not have dash lights. Anyone have a 98 OBS wiring manual you could email to me? Lmdew@hotmail.com When I crank to start the car the CEL and Battery lights go out but then flash on and off, like I've never seen. I know I need to get the codes, but I have to find a reader. Thanks, Larry Yellow/Blue wire at the radio is the ground for all of the backlights, Gauge Cluster, Radio, Heat Control, Switches on the Gauge trim. All good now, Thanks for the help and the wire diagrams.

PVC coupling is great.

It's down on the drivers side of the transmission. Before you change the switch, pull the plug and jump the wires to make sure the lights come on. It's a little hard to get to, but it just screws in.

Pull the belt off does the noise go away? When the belt is off, check the pulleys/bearings for any roughness.

It should as long as you have the wiring for it.

Change the pressure regulator. If you need one, I have plenty of them from 2.5.

Sounds like a fuel issue. How long did the car sit? Is the fuel pressure regulator on the passenger side rear fuel rail OK? Pinch off the fuel return line going back to the tank, does it make a difference? Can you hear the fuel pump running?

The wire is all behind the kick panel and the unit itself goes up under the dash. held in with zip strips. I have a used unit and the wiring, so you would just have to get the remote. You can order them off Ebay for about $15. Yes, not all Legacy's came with the electronic locks. If all your doors are opening and closing off the switch, you should be OK. $50 shipped.

I'm home this weekend if you want me to take a quick drive. NW side of town. Larry

Did you try the FWD Fuse? If you get the FWD indicator on the dash and the problem goes away the C-duty is working.

Did you use your old intake and all the sensors? Are you getting spark? If so, put a cap or two of gas in the intake, does it fire now? Double check to make sure the main engine to firewall connectors are dry and tight, no bent pins.

95 is not, 96 and newer are.

You need to ensur your doors have the electronic locks. If not, you will need to install the aftermarket actuator.

Put the FWD Fuse in the holder to put it in FWD mode. Does the problem go away? I thought you had a 5 sp until you asked about the parking pawl.

I've done many 96-99 Outback 2.5 to 2.2 swaps with the 95 2.2 engine. I think this is a great combination. The reliability of the 95 2.2 with the features of the Newer Outbacks. The 2.2 is great to work on, IMHO.

The wheel bearings can cause the howl. It's pretty common. If the backs are going, it seems to be more noticable at highway speeds. If the front's are going the noise will change some when you corner. I take it the trans and front diff gear ratios are the same!

If you need a older one, I think I have one in my parts bin.

Go to Ebay and look for Grip Force, I've used 6 or more of there Exedy kits and I've been happy. Make sure you surface the flywheel and re-seal the air/oil seperator plate on the back of the block.