lmdew

If you need the speedo head, I have the complete gauge cluster for way less then the Speedo Head from the dealer. Lmdew@hotmail.com 80K on the OD I think.

Look at the disk rotor backing plate. Most likely its up against the disk. It's easy to bend and bend back.

I've got one from a auto to manual trans swap, $30 and its yours. Lmdew@hotmail.com

You may have bent the rear parts as well. When they do the 4 wheel alignment the back affects the front as well. Check the trailing arm and both links.

Make sure all your hoses are on. If you want to try a different maf, send me a picture of you original and the PN and if the couple I have match, I'll send it to you if you pick up the postage both ways. If it fixes the problem, just send me a fair price. Lmdew@hotmail.com for the pic.

Could be, or could be the wires feeding the info to the ECU. Make sure all the grounds are good.

Sometime the VSS on the trany goes, but these have problems with the speedo head. If the CEL is not on and the cruise still works the VSS is sending the signal out. Its most likely the speedo or the connections. Try pulling the gauge cluster and remove the screws holding the speedo in. Clean the contact and replace the screw. Put it back in and see if it works. I've fixed a few this way. If you need a new gauge cluster let me know I have a spare.

Well, it comes down to how much you have in the car now, how long you are going to keep it if you fix it and what you would do to replace it if you did not fix it. With a bad motor, these go for $1000-2000 depending on condition and demand. If you are going to keep the car for 3-5 years then a few thousand for a rebuilt engine would be worth it. Used engines can be had with 30-90 day replacement, but they will just give you another engine. If you are not doing the swap yourself, you are out the labor cost.

A quality engine from www.ccrengines.com out of Denver will give you the reliability you are looking for at a honest price. If its out of your range, drop in a used 95 2.2 Hard to fine a used 2.5 without HG or other issues. If the T-belt has broken the valves are most likely bent. If it has overheated, the HG will most likely go at some point.

Sorry, I sold the one I had the other day. Western Auto in Denver has a couple low mileage newer subarus. Colorado Auto Parts off Santa Fe also had some newer Subarus. Hope this helps.

Sounds like the alternator. How many miles are on the car? Any auto parts store will check the charging system for free. Check 1stsubaruparts.com for the discounted dealer price.

You could swap the injectors to see is the problem stay on cyl#3. If so, its you've ruled out the fuel system. Have you checked compression and done a vacuum gauge check to see if it shows worn valves? Just a couple of thoughts.

Check EBay for you clutch kit. I got an OEM for 120+ I'm happy with it so far. Yes the flywheel and pressure plate will bolt right up. Unless the rear main is leaking, I'd leave it. These are good seals. Do the oil seperator. Order your parts from Subiegal or one of the other dealers with discounts. Get them all and then you'll have them. www.subarugenuineparts.com or www.1stsubaruparts.com Red RTV is good for the oil pan gasket, just don't over do it. I've been real happy with this swap, I've done 4 so far.

Do the junkyarddog.com request. You should be able to find a used one.

If you need a fuel pump, I have one in Colorado Springs.

Sounds like someone put in an older trans and speedo head.

VSS on the right side of the Trans. Only one as far as I know.

Make sure you bleed the system so you do not trap air. If there is any oil (black junk in the overflow) the HG are leaking. Did is suck coolant back into the engine? If not the HG are leaking most likely.

The ABS unit is in the engine compartment, passenger side all the way forward. There is a tag on it with (3 sets of numbers). You will see all the brake lines going to the unit. A picture would help as well. Lmdew@hotmail.com

I have one or two from cars I've parted. $75+shipping. Please send the Part # on the unit so I can make sure its a match. I'm out of town until next week, but I could ship it Fedex Tue. Any good mechanic can swap the units and bleed the brakes.

You need to check them. The bearings should be smooth and seals good. The tensioner should not be leaking fluid. If they are good, no need to replace them.

When you jack the engine and trans to clear the engine mount studs, put a 2x6 under the trans or block the trans up. That way it will stay up for your new engine. Yes, the alt/ac compressor bracket the the lift ring on the back are what I use as well. The alignment pins are sometimes stuck. The best way to deal with that is to use a large punch and drive them fwd or aft so they are in the engine or trans. Just make sure you have them back correctly before you put the new engine in.

P1507 is the Idle control solenoid on top of the throttle body. Google that code to confirm. The assy comes off with a couple of screws. The misfire could be caused by several items, Injectors, plugs, plug wires. Take the easy stuff first. I'd correct the P1507 first and then see what comes up.

Yep, HG and possible bent valves if you have no compression. Is the overflow tank black and looks like an oil slick? Its HG for sure. CCRengines for a rebuilt or a good 95 2.2 are your best bet.

If you are going to keep the car, get a rebuilt engine from CCRengines.com. They build them right and over the long run it will save you money! I purchased a Legacy from a lady who paid a Dealer almost $2800 to do the HG only to have the engine go with a bad rod a few weeks later. The mileage was 152K. You could also put in a good 95 2.2 engine. Its a direct bolt in. In eithe case, your head gasket problem will be Gone.