ericem

Worked on this yesterday and had part transmissions. The tranny with no AWD had alot of slack meaning in the clutch drums you can compare how thick the clutches are. Ill post pics of what I am talking about. Also replaced the solenoid, and filter. See the gap between the clip? This one has no gap, well like extremely little.

lol this was my solution then new motor back in Engine was from a good working legacy turbo wagon I was driving. Only thing kind of bothering me is that the engine has been sitting for a few weeks without coolant in a cold garage. Will find out if it's fine tomorrow when I fire it up PS: questioning tranny removal? Well lost 2nd, 3rd, and 4th which basically forced me to swap both the engine and tranny.

I don't think there is a actual set time to replace the tensioner just a simple inspection for leaks.

A friend of mine bought a 99 forester. 2.5 was diagnosed as rod knock. Turned out that tensioner failed and was just flopping around. Amazingly ran perfectly, and timing didn't jump without any tension!

OR you can just remove the plug at the bottom of the pan, and refill?

Who knows, previous owner maybe didn't fill the engine with oil and drove it, then realized later, so he decided to sell it. Best bet, find another ej25 block and use your heads. Hopefully someone here can recommend a private shop in your area that will be alot cheaper then the dealer.

Just replace the battery, sounds like you need a optima yellow top, or any dry cell battery that will handle alot of cycling.

It's most likely 2.25" the actual pipe.

Try another outback see if it does the same thing. Maybe you need a alignment?

Install dry, and make sure surfaces are clean. Don't think twice.

Check if there is water in the cells or just replace the battery should be fine and not require a charger.

Make sure you have the same tires front and back, and be sure they have the correct air pressure that is on the driver side door or on the pillar. Also you could have tires with broken belts.

Gasket kit I bought. http://www.autopartsway.com/autoparts2/index.cfm?fetch=part~ID=1994~Subaru~Legacy%20AWD%20Turbo~240451

lol I mean't other people on the forum suggesting to use sealant Good to hear, and sucks to hear.

Better question is why suggest using rubber sealant on a rubber gasket?! Hate it when people do that. I didn't use oem seals, I bought mine from autopartsway, and didn't use sealant, i just wiped the block surface with a cloth, and cleaned the valve covers with a scrub brush. Year later still no leaks! The kit included the grommets too.

Hmm, get them online and pay express... That's sad no rad caps on hand?!!

And the check engine light is most likely a cracked knock sensor, or bad o2 sensor.

my old 93 leg with 300k was overheated to the point where there was barely any coolant and it was pointing at H with the car bogging for a good 2 weeks because of a water pump leaking. After replacing the waterpump, the car ran fine with no more overheating, had the original rad cap, thermostat, hoses etc just the water pump was changed. And drove like that for 50k+ with 0 issues overheating wise. Id start with this, when the engine is cool, remove the rad cap, see if the rad is full, make sure there is fluid in the overflow, and start it up with the cap off. See if bubbles start floating up continously, and squeeze the upper hose a few times to burp out the bubles. Also could be a bad thermostat. Be sure to use all OEM parts!

I don't understand what I am looking at. Is that socket stuffed with something?

Maybe a bad idler?? Try and listen with a screw driver in each head. It's a 2.2l so it has HLA's.

In australia aren't they 1 year ahead ? So a 94 for them is a 95 for us.

DON'T USE IT! I did it and I am chasing a problem with fans cycling and loss of power till I swap out this motor. The EJ22T is closed deck and the ports will clog very easily. I very very much doubt you have a headgasket problem. Replace the pump with a OEM one from the dealer, use the OEM metal gasket, and a OEM thermostat and a OEM cap to!! Flush out your rad to with water when you remove it to do the pump belt etc.

Pry it off slowly, scrape off old sealant, replace with either a new gasket from the dealer or RTV it again.

try unplugging your MAF while the car is on, it will shut off.... So improper info from the MAF will cause the engine to shut off. There have been similar cases. Finding a USED JECS MAF should be pretty easy to find.

That is so true! I am now thinking of all those times I romped on it cold stupidly and now looking at my blown td04....