ericem

My turbo car is just as economical as my non turbo, you just need to stay out of boost. Remember a non turbo is faster then a turbo without the turbo. I have found my 94 SS to be just as reliable as my N/A 93 wagon. It is just I am driving alot faster, and having a whole bunch of fun

How did you come to this?? The guage on the dash is showing wrong why do you think this? You can try replacing the sensor btw.

Just want to update. When I drained the rad a bunch of stuff came out then my dad blew out the heatercore with 300psi of nitrogen. I would fill it with water, then blast nitrogen, and let it build a slight bit of pressure. So far so good! I am very happy, car seems to drive great now. Hope this helps out people in the future. Lesson is NO STOP LEAK OF ANY KIND IN A SUBIE!!!!!!!!

You sure the headgasket went? It's a touring wagon or turbo??

The "experts" have steps to a diagnosis....... What plugs and wires did you use BTW? ONLY use OEM wires or NGK and ONLY use OEM NGK PLUGS!

Hmm Why did you pull the motor to replace the valve cover seals and do a tune up? Do you have a check engine light on?

Probably just the hydraulic lash adjusters. They fill with oil, yet sometimes they seize or get air trapped because a oil passage way is slugged up running them dry. It causes them to give a noise similar to a knock. You can remove them and bleed them. You can also try getting a bottle of seafoam at your local parts store and dumping it in the oil and driving around aggressively hopefully it will clear out the sludge and the HLA's will be nice and quiet. You should only drive around for like 20minutes or so until the noise goes away, THEN replace the oil and filter.

Yup I removed and installed the motor with no issues clearance wise at all. With a leveler just keep adjust as you raise and pull forward. I was worried about those cinderblocks exploding but I had a piece of wood between the car chassis and the block.

No, I am not trying via the bottom as it doesn't look possible haha. I will try with a socket wrench. Thanks guys!

It's a auto. Ill try some things then, I have a complete Ej22t with blown tranny sitting here so let me try separating that one first. Whats a pitch bar bracket btw? Is it the cover at the bottom of the engine because mine isn't in place.

Hey guys, I am planning on swapping out my tranny soon. Now when I do this I am aware of the other steps, drop DP, prop shaft, unplug shifter linkage, electronics, speedocable, mounts etc, bell housing, but I am just thinking what is the easiest way to access the 4 flywheel bolts? It is a 94 legacy turbo, and I don't feel like pulling the turbo, yet there might be enough room to access the bolts with a box end wrench. It appears a long extension from the front of the engine to the back will work, but I need some sort of universal that will allow the socket to swivel and line up with the bolt properly. Anyone had any luck with this method? Any other ideas? Thanks!

Well, it was 15+C today. It locks up, but only for a period of time, then jumps out of lockup and doesn't lockup the rest of the drive on the highway. With my car is is like a 800rpm+ difference when I hit the gas on the highway. Someone said maybe the torque converter is locked up, but the gear itself starts to slip.

Still doesn't seem to be locking up for a long enough period. I swapped TCU's to one that I know was locking up perfectly. Haven't done any highway driving yet, will do so though, last drive seemed to lockup for a very long time at 80km/h yet I had to slow down. I am debating replacing the whole tranny. Seems like such a waste. Is it possible its just the valve body? The oil is always a nice red with no burnt smell. Thing's i have done so far, replaced bent oil pan, replaced shift solenoid, replaced oil a few times, and added trans-x recently which made it definitely shift better.

Even better of a idea!

IMO it is worse leaving them off as rocks then CHIP the paint off and it rusts. So what I do is remove the rubber part, clean the metal lip, then wash the rubber part with soap and water. Then I use this rust proofing spray that is very sticky and spray teh inside lip of the rubber with it then put it back in place and the oil will spill out and coat the metal nicely and make a very good seal so pretty much no debree gets between the rubber and metal for a while. I do it as often as I feel I should.

Agreed! OEM for rotors are the way to go or look at EBC stuff. On my car I run OEM rotors but I heard EBC has some good ones and I use Red stuff pads, but green works really well too.

Just go to the dealer for a OEM cap it is only $10.

It is also not often for a 91 with the EJ22 to have a headgasket go bad. But if it still had the original coolant from 91 it will loose its property and could corrode the gasket causing them to leak.

Possibly tires, try putting on your spare wheel on the wheel that seems to be making noise and make sure the spare is fully inflated. If the noise goes away it is definitely the tire. Could also be a CV axle yet if turning doesn't make it louder probably not the issue. Another thing to consider is the wheel bearings. Hope this helps!

I'm going to try flushing the heatercore both ways with a hose, then blast with air, fill with rad flush, let it sit, flush out with water again, do the same thing the other way. If I don't see any of that stop leak ************ come out, going to do a loop and see if all is well. Would suck having to replace the core....

They had to replace the intake gaskets and would have disassembled all of the intake. Possibly there was a leak somewhere and when they reassembled it the clamps were tightened most likely. The car should probably get better fuel economy and be a bit faster.

After looking at this I do firmly believe it is the heatercore. It appears that the coolant that the thermostat sees goes through the heatercore first. If the heatercore was clogged up, it would restrict that flow therefore the thermostat will close up as soon as the COLD coolant in the rad circulates by. But when the car is sitting idling the rad is hot since there is no air flowing through the rad. Therefore when the thermostat opens there is hot coolant rushing by and less air blowing through via the fans then when driving. Either way all that is left to this cooling system puzzle is the heater core!

Um crazy, but FANS STILL DONT CYCLE AH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL!!! Car warms up, runs his the 205F mark monitoring via laptop and bam fans just run steady without the temperature dropping. IN the original car it came from it worked PERFECTLY!! All I changed was the thermostat everything else on the motor is what was used in the other car other then the heatercore..... Am I installing the damn thermostat correctly?? What is the proper orientation?

I got my valve cover seals from autopartsway the whole set was only $30 with grommets and both gaskets! So far on two engines one is a year old and no leaks!