MR_Loyale

Got a Haynes manual?

BR - don't beat yourself up too badly. It is an easy mistake to make. Chalk it up to the school of experience. Now you got a beer drinkin tale to tell at WCSS.

What is the engine in that? If EA81, here is a rebuilt replacement with a warranty: http://www.ccrengines.com/id11.html

Absolutely. I am much more impressed with folks who can keep the "antiques" running and use them everyday than rich folks who throw em away every 5 years. I have had the same Subaru for the last 20 years from brand new. I still love the way it looks. Yeah it is a sickness...

Car looks clean. If you have a place to work on it then you ought to try to fix it yourself. Lots of great help and advice here.

The thing is even if you took him to court and won the entire book value of the car, I suspect you'd be out several hundred bucks in the end. Someone step in and correct me if I am wrong here, but the replacement value for a 30 yr old Subaru GL is probably $1500 in the best condition. If it was a rare antiquity it might be worth the battle. How much do you have into this car as it stands? You probably have spent more than the book value of the car as it is and you have nothing to drive. Is this your only means of transport? If you have the space to work on it yourself, you would probably be better of attempting to do so. You probably can't break it any worse. If you are well off money-wise and the car has sentimental value you could haul it to another place but what is to say something else won't go wrong and they will want to charge you? At mechanic rates things can get spendy real fast. The thing is the car is, ahem let me put this delicately - is an antique. Nothing wrong with that, just that with cars this old things can and do go wrong. Is it a pristine show car or more of a Maynard (aka CARS)? I would hate to see you haul it from one place to another pouring thousands of dollars you cannot afford only to scrap it in the end.

I agree with this. If the mechanic steps up and takes responsibility then see what he will do. If he tries to make excuses there is always the legal solution.

1993 Loyale Sedan FWD SPFI. I am doing the groundwork for a remote keyless entry (RKE) system so I can press a button on the key fob and have the doors lock/unlock. As you know, the driver side door of the Loyale is considered a "master" in that opening with the key or moving the lock latch from the inside locks and unlocks the doors. There is no actuator in the driver's door. In order to accomodate my RKE system's lock/unlock feature, I need to put in an actuator and a resistive restive ground relay circuit so that I can trigger the lock and unlock with a negative pulse as that is what my RKE control module requires. Got all that? LOL. Here is a video describing the resistive rest at ground circuit I am going to be using: MY QUESTION: I have a pair of wires already run through the side of the door, through the door wiring boot to inside the car. Would it be best to mount the relay set inside the driver door (there is a hot wire in there according to my Haynes manual) and use the wire pair for the control signal (max 250ma). This would be the wires connected to terminal 86 in the video above. The advantage I can see here is that only a very small current would be running through the two wires. Disadvantage is that the relays would be subject to lots of mechanical shock from the door being opened and closed. OR Mount the relays under the dash and use the wire pair as power to drive the solenoid (probably 1-3 amps I am guessing though I haven't measured the amperage used when activating the solenoid). This would be the wires to terminal 30 in the video. The advantage I see here is that the relays wouldn't be subject to the mechanical shock of the first option. Disadvantage that a much larger current will be running thorough the wires. I am leaning towards the relays in the dash just for reliability but thought I would get opinions in case I missed anything.

Take him to court. He owes you a new engine. You'd have been better off having the three stooges work on your engine.

When I converted mine, I used a $44 Interdynamic kit (even came with a dvd) R12 to 34a kit from Walmart. Kit had the refrigerant with esther oil and stop leak. Only thing is you MUST evacuate the system using a vacuum pump. Just opening it up won't work. Vacuum pump will boil off any moisture. I did mine for an hour to be sure. http://www.walmart.com/ip/EZ-Chill-AC-Recharge-and-Retrofit-Kit/16888792

Harbor Freight has a vacuum pump and mainfold gauge set specifically for this. $170 for both. Prob won't get it done cheaper than that at a shop. If it ever needs redoing or any car AC, you will be set. http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html

The confusion in the OP is the word "ultimate". It means different things to different people. To some, ultimate means more power. To others is means more reliability. To me personally, the "ultimate" EA82 would be one where the HLA's never develop a tic, the rotor screw never came off, it never leaked oil, never leaked coolant, hoses never broke and always started no matter what. I don't need to climb rock walls vertically or show up Hummers by pulling them from the ditch. I don't care to race punks down the I5 zig zagging through traffic. Don't get me wrong, I am amazed at those that do that with their Subaru's(except the crazy racing ricers on the interstate), I just don't desire to do that with mine. Because the EA82 engine was never designed to be any of those things. It was designed to be an inexpensive, easy to service, modest engine for an inexpensive automobile. Mine still meets that design goal. When the time comes to rebuild mine, it will be exactly as stock when I bought it new. I still drive it daily and it meets my needs. Will a McClaren haul a family of 9? Does that make it a failure as a car? Can you tow your 32 foot boat across the country with a Lamborghini? How many yards of dirt can you haul in a miata?

Website is up.

They make UV kits where you thoroughly clean the engine, put in the dye, run the engine and wherever there is a leak, the UV light will find it.

We'd neve get anything called JAPFEST allowed here. The PC crowd would shut it down in a heartbeat.

Check the screw on the rotor.

What is the machine shop you use? I will prob need a good shop this fall when I get my heads on my EA82 trued. I would prefer one that understands Subie and not some GM monkeys grinding on it.

Why does it do that? They didn't do that from the factory did they?

Here is some AC themed music to inspire you:

Autozone loans tools, maybe they have one you could borrow. Here is a video on getting the key out by Dino:

The website is still down.

Do you have to be from Oregon to participate?

Sounds like you have a story to tell about this. Please do tell.

I think the takeaway here is replace your damn radiator hoses before they get 20 years old. Subaru saved my rear end. Does anyone here have any doubt had this been say a Chevy, I would be footing it home?

Yes yes. VERY important. If trying to push refrigerant into a system that has air as well, the results will not be good. I think you nailed it Gloyale. 175eya - did you use a vacuum pump to evacuate the system before you put in the refrigerant? If not, you will never get your system working for the reasons Gloyale has stated above. Plus you will ruin your system with the moisture. Get the system evacuated or get a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set and do it yourself. Harbor Freight has both and you can get them for under $160 in total. If you have a buddy who also has ac trouble, maybe you can split the cost. Or take it somewhere and have them do it. Also they can test to see if it will hold a vaccum. Then refill with refrigerant. I ran the vacuum for an hour to ensure all the moisture boiled off when I did mine.