mtsmiths

When The Pretty One drives her 2000 Legaback (A/T, 185,000 mi) the shifting isn't smooth, (particulary 1st to 2nd) not awful, but harder shifts and very slight hesitation. Downshifts are virtually unnoticable. When I drive it (I won't say I'm agressive, just a little more 'spirited' than she at the wheel), the shifts are as smooth as a brand new car. I know the TCU 'learns' and adjusts to driving style. Does her car like me better? Can I erase the memory and allow her to retrain it? Are we heading toward serious tranny issues (I know it's inevetible, someday). We plan to keep this car to 300,000 mi, or 2009, whichever happens first. She feels the shifts and started talking about replacing the car. I asked "if you weren't worried about the transmission would you sell the car?". She said no, other than that she loves it, so I pointed out that even if we needed a new tranny, it was cheaper than a new car, to which she agreed.

Me too, my response is; "Yah, now would you like to see my house in Hawaii, and my property on the Olympic Peninsula, or our house by Flathead Lake, or my airplane? I've NEVER in my l-o-n-g life bought a new car. What will yours be worth in five years?"

I saw 2000 Legacy sedan wearing Forester rims and tires Saturday, in Whitefish. Took me a second to suss it out, I wasn't expecting those stamped wheels on a Legacy. Looked fine,and obviously worked for the seventy+ little old lady driving the 'Roo.

Here's a maybe. Our intermittent 'dashboard rattle' is actually a heat shield on the front pipes under the car. The sound gets telegraphed into the interior and presents as a dashboard rattle. Check under the car for a loose heatshield, or a rock kicked up into the shielding somewhere.

Technique and polish used please! My airplane propeller needs to look like this, and I don't want someone who isn't qualified to work on it (except moi, of course ). Thanks

"With the plugs out, crank the engine" That's why this part, the starter will spin the engine fast enough to get oil throughout the engine because there's no compression. There's also very little strain on the bearings for the short time that they are running dry. You also get the chance to listen for any gawdawful noises before running it. :-p

Guarans.

Our 2000 Legaback with 185,000 miles burns less than 1/2 qt between 5,000 mile interval changes. We've never had even an inkling of a HG proble, and don't expect we ever will.

Well, the old time pepper tree mechanic in me says: Drain and replace the oil, replacing 1/2 QT with Marvel Mystery oil. Remove all the spark plugs, squit MMO liberally into each cylinder. With the plugs out, crank the engine , you can squirt a bit more MMO into each cylinder as you go to lube up the cylinder walls and help free up the rings. Put the plugs back in and see how it runs. After a couple hundred miles change the oil and filter again. Done that on many cars that have been sitting, and a couple of airplanes. If there is any Subaru specific tricks I don't know about, or if I've steered you wrong, someone will jump in here and let us both know.

Unless your mechanic KNOWS Subarus don't let him anywhere near the cooling system. Find someon who understands the airlock problem,and have THEM do a cooling flush and new anti-freeze, even if means going to the stealership. Can't hurt anyhow, winter's nigh!

I don't knowwhat year the poster is dealing with, but our 2000 Legacy has always had a cold PAX foot well. I've printed this off and inted to follow every step to see if it fixes our cold feet! If so, thanks; if not, thanks for the posting anyhow.

Be carefu with that spider bite, go get a major broad spectrum antibiotic NOW, and stay on it for the full course. I got bit and didn't know it until i developed a black rimmed hole in my arm the size of a pencil eraser. When from a 'pimple' to meteor crater in 24 hours, took six months to completely heal. Nasty, nasty!

Last night after having a problem with either the alarm system or the P/N tranny lockout switch/relay in the Barbie Jeep, and while waiting for the AAA tow truck, I got to thinking (having cycled the alarm ten or so times troubleshooting). I wonder what wiring that gawd awful sounding whoop-whoop siren from the alarm would do in traffic? It's pretty loud, and the dischordant noise might just startle people into dropping their effing cell phone.

Leave it white ... then get out some good quality gloss black rattle cans and zebra stripe it!

prolly, IMHO. BTW: "Southerners are SUPPOSED to 'ignernt' !" the Texans in my family (all but my Mom and me) allus pronounced that word 'southrener'

Ahem, howsomever the mord is 'mosey', which YOU Carl, as a Texican should know better than any ... "The LACK of standard English spelling on this board always amazes ME!" ... signed, The Spelling Police

Scoop out hollows in the direction you want to go and throw the floor mats down into the path of the tires. Once you get moving keep going (light throttle, as was said DON'T SPIN). When you're out got back dig up your floor mats, shake the sand offen'em, and put 'em back in the car. Works in snow too.

I can lip read fairly well, I saw a lot of people responding with @$$hole.

1,000 lb limit in US vs 4,400 lb (2,000 kg) in Europe? Methinks there's a conversion error someplace. That said, when it downshifts on a hill, put it in 3rd so it doesn't 'hunt' (as previously advised). As a matter of fact, this is good practice whether towing or no. Not to mention how bloody irritating that up and down shifting is on a long hill. I vote with the 'you'll be fine, especially if you have a fluid change after' faction. Enjoy the trip, stop often (read the roadside Histerical markers), take lot's of rest stop breaks (change drivers each time), and enjoy the trip. OH, I aweddy said that didn't I?

Our Brighton has one in the dial where the tach would be if it weren't a Brighton. I haven't bothered upgrading since it's an auto. There's a knob that sticks out like the trip meter knob, and you just twist it the way you want the clock to go. Hold and it starts s-l-o-w then starts going really fast.

The PCV valve takes the 'blow-by' combustion gasses from the crankcase (they usted to just vent into the atmosphere via a down tube) and routes them into the intake manifold where they are burned. Kinda like a SCUBA rebreather. I dunno if a clogged PCV would create excess smoking or not, but they're cheap, as are air filters, so whynot. Back in the 'old days' (i'm talking O-L-D here), I cured many an engine of this by mixing a couple heaping tablespoons of BonAmi into 20WT oil and running it through the carb. The Bon Ami would deglaze the cylinder walls of varnish and burned oil build-ups and reseat the rings. But this was on very low compression cast-iron block engines ... do NOT try it with a Subaru. Try Seafoam

After reading the title I wondered WTF? But then I just watched "World's Fastest Indian". If you haven't seen it, do. Cracked ring?

... the Lincoln Park Pirates are we ... http://www.songlyrics.com/song-lyrics/Goodman_Steve/Miscellaneous/Lincoln_Park_Pirates/70648.html

Well said, this thread needs no more input. But oh well, I will anyhow. Get an extra set of wheels and mount them. Our studded Kumhos are going into their third season, and don't look all that different from new. I expect we'll get five or six winters out of them ... makes your 'summer tires' last longer too!

This is the ultimate 'propeller grille' http://www.seriouswheels.com/1950-1959/1950-Ford-Convertible-Maroon.htm I had a convert like this in college ... damn, I sure wish I still had it! :-\