naru2

This usually means the distributor shaft bushings are worn. See if you can wiggle the shaft, Any more than barely perceptible movement is too much.

+1 Nothing blew. You have a bad battery connection.

According to my Walker catalog,that is the correct number.Picture is wrong though.

Good work.Congratulations!

Are you disagreeing? Like I said,fuel pressure is always 36 psi COMPARED TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.(but varies between 26-43 psi on a normal gauge that compares fuel pressure to atmospheric pressure) Fuel pump output pressure is a lot more than 43 psi.It is regulated to 43 max. Deadheaded pressure output is more like 60 or 70.My aftermarket pump is over 100.Pinch your return line and see for yourself.If you only get 43 your pump is dead. You need more than 43 psi available to get a regulated 43 psi output. Read your manual again.You will see that it says "43.6 psi at supercharging 48.0 kPa"(full boost) Of course the FPR is rising rate.It would not need a vacuum line to the intake if it was not.

I suspect that all the modules were made in one factory and then rebranded and reboxed.I doubt there is any difference Airtex uses the same blurb on all thier modules. It does not seem reasonable that there were 5 different manufacturers of this low volume part like the crossover page suggests. Pretty sure AC Delco never tooled up to make this subaru part.

That is 36psi above intake pressue so about 28 at idle.36 not running and 43(36 +7) at full boost.

You don`t need to run your car at boost to check fuel pressure at boost. I use a tire pump and an old subaru check valve to put 7 psi (full boost) on the pressure regulator vacuum line.Fuel pressure should then be 43psi. Volume is important too.For a quick check,I remove the return line and measure the volume. I think a fuel pressure gauge is more important than a boost gauge.I use an onboard oil pressure gauge for fuel pressure

Both EA81Ts and EA82Ts run 43psi at full boost.

Sounds like a stuck or unpowered ignition relay. See diagram on page 195 etc. of the 1st ej22 service manual here http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/

See if the fuse blows w/the ignition relay unplugged.If OK,then see what happens w/the relay plugged in and the ECU unplugged.

SPFI,I presume? Fuse 5 powers the ECU both directly and thru the ignition relay.(with some white wires) See pages 52 and 155 of the 2nd EA82 manual here http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/

You have the right modules this time, Notice the difference in the Airtex part nos. Correct one is 1250,Nissan one is 1206. I don`t need to prove anything.Waste your time if you like. I say to you-Take a look at the distributor caps that go w/your Nissan modules,The extra pins on the Nissan module are to support a second coil,not a phase correction signal from the knock control computer. Connections on the nissan module are: Power,intake coil,exhaust coil, and exhaust coil cutoff switch. You may even damage your knock control computer by trying to use the nissan module. I had one of those elderly nissans,There was no knock sensor

Those Nissan modules support dual plug heads,not knock control.They are like 2 modules in one. I doubt the aftermarket modules are any more robust anyway.Just beware loose plug wires.

Don`t think there are any new ones left. Try an ad in the classified here for a used one.

That is a solenoid on the trans,not a switch. It(or its harness) has probably shorted internally.(usually they fail open) Check it by putting an ohmmeter across the leads.Maybe tap it lightly at the same time.Measure resistance to ground on the transmission side of the unplugged connector too.

I think you have found the reason the later 1989 FSM does not mention TPS voltages at all.Just resistance measurements. Check it out here http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/

It is the LED on the ECU. ON is rich or lean,dont remember which.

More likely flooded than starved. You dont need a gauge to determine which.Just look at the fuel level in the carb sight glass. It should be in the middle,yours is probably too high. It is a little hard to see.Might need a mirror.Helps to bounce the car. Next time it quits,try to start w/the throttle on the floor.If it starts more quickly,plugs were flooded/fouled.

Crankcase gases reverse direction and flow into the air cleaner from the passenger side at high throttle openings because there is not enough vacuum in the intake to pull them thru the PCV valve. That is how it is supposed to work. Your motor must have more blowby now than it did 2 years ago(not surprising-drive a lot of dirt roads?) since your getting more oil on the filter w/the same setup. Blowby oil wont make your carb flood,but,a little oil on a spark plug can make starting difficult.Check the plugs. Incorrect flow from an incorrect PCV valve could affect starting too

Do a compression test and check the plugs. Kinda sounds like it is running on 3 cyl. Idle is low too. See if unplugging the CTS makes any difference.

I know you replaced the fuel pump etc.,but,have you actually measured fuel pressure while it is bucking? You have classic fuel starvation symptoms.

Sure,Remove the connections to the transistor box and run a wire from the ungrounded side of the points to coil negative Bobs your uncle. Point style coils normally have a little higher resistance,but,you should be OK.

It will be an engine problem,not tranny. The transmission is supposed to kick down to a lower gear when floored under a certain speed. I`d be checking that the secondary throttle is not stuck closed,ignition timing and possibly for a restricted exhaust.

Usually blows a fusible link