FerGloyale

they are adjustable. The ball socket probably rusted. FWIW, the small, non-folding side mirrors is one of my pet peeves as a real downgrade when subaru introduced the 2nd gen legacy (and outbacks) First gens, 90-94 were really excellently made cars. Good materials, attention to detail. The second gens they really cheaped out to cut cost. Mecahnically good cars but the body and interior got really low quality those years (95-99)

you need a toilet bowl gasket!

FWIW there were metal ones on all the 90-94 EJ22 in the first Gen legacies. I've got about a half dozen of them stashed away. Come up with a apart # for the 90-94 models and you should still be able to get it from subaru, unless they've completely superseded.

wheel bearings.

Right, was. I'm telling you, it say's in the owners manual for that car not to run constantly above 4K rpms. As it sits now, you are on here with a broken down car. So it seems that driving that car that fast hasn't seemed to work out so well? I advise those with 3AT equipped cars to not exceed 65 on a regular basis.

yeah I had that problem too. gotta force the spring plate over the lip at the top of strut body. 2 small dents in that lip will make it possible. As said, stud screw into the captive nuts from the top. After they are through the roll pin is to make sure you can't adjust them up too far. Dropt eh plate down onto the studs, and assemble with spring and top.

the front diff could still whine. Drivelines don't whine. they vibrate if the U-joints are failing

it's parking "pawl" And it's a piece inside the trans. It doesn't click. It's a bar of steel that get's pushed forward by the shift linkage internally. If there was something wrong with it "P" would not hold the car from rolling. Is it a light clicking sound "inside" the cabin? Or is it more heavy and thunk from outside the cabin? If it's a click, inside the car, you really may just be hearing the brake/Park/Ignition key interlock solenoids. And that would be pretty normal. They aren't always audible but some are more "clicky" than others. Recording of the sound may be helpful too. I doubt there is a problem with the Parking pawl. But if there is it means transmission disassembly.

Not sure if the OP knows or if it was part of the issue here, but some rules for using Part time 4wd on older subaru;s (and all true 4wds) 1) NEVER engage 4wd on pavement, concrete, etc. Loose pack dirt, gravel, mud, or snow only. 2)ALWAYS have 4 matched tires. 3) If you do break rule 1 and 2 together, then you are really in a pickle. Different size tires rotate different amounts for the same distance. If you drive on hard surface while in 4wd you WILL need to lift a tire off the ground to disengage 4wd, or drive slowly, straight to the nearest patch of loose gravel. Sometime simply getting both tires on one side off the road on the shoulder and driving straight while pushing lever down (or hitting button) to disengage.

Do a compression test. Everything else is dependand on having 4 good cylinders. Verify that first before chasing electrical or fuel issues. You may have lost a valve seat or ring land. FWIW, IMHO, 70~80 mph is torture to the engine and the 3AT in that car. They were designed for 55-60 mph as 55 was the national speed limit at the time it was built. Remnant of Oil Shortage policies from the late 70's OPEC crisis. You WILL eventually wear out the governor gear in the 3at driving at those high speeds. Heck it'll happen at some point driving 50, but will happen way sooner if driven at high speeds. Plus again it forces the engine to rev waaay over 4K for long periods of time.

I had an almost identical situation on a 97 Outback with 2.2 swap. Ended up being the O2 Sensor. I can't find any info from Subaru about how the O2 affects ECU's timing calculations. But in this one case, for me, the timing was randomly retarding to less 13~15 degrees under light throttle cruising (when it should be more like 20~35) When the timing would pull back, the car would feel sluggish, no throttle response. Although for this case it was not a bucking, jerking loss of power. More like when you get to a slight hill and try to give a little more throttle, nothing would happen for several seconds (timing at ~15) then would kick in (timing jumps back up to 30 or so) and then acceleration would feel normal again. Putting in a brand new Denso O2 sensor seems to have stopped that issue and car drives normal now. Timing stays where it should.

just pull the emulsion tubes from the carb, blow them out with air and carb cleaner. (brass screws visible on top of lower assembly, 4 of them. Takes a very small but tough flathead) Put the carb back together. That will solve most of the running problems the Hitachi has. There is a rebuild kit by "walker" brand. They make a kit for EA81 and EA82. hitachi. but it's really only useful if the Accelerator pump is blown out or if the float needle is shot. very rare. Most valuable piece in the kit is just the gasket for the top cover.

Any chance the engine was from a Carbed car that used a Distributor? If so there would be no trigger points on the Cam and Crank gears.

Change the spark plugs

You didn't find the connectors for the wiring. it unclips. The liner comes out. Subaru didn't thread wiring after the liner install. There is a way to remove the liner without disturbing wiring. I would never ever risk letting that liner be unsupported. "folded" but not "noticeable" will get me sued. It REALLY REALLY is better to just take the time to properly get the liner out and not risk damaging it.

Failing coil and or bad spark plugs plugs.

I would not split the case. I would replace the Oil Pump Seals (kit available from subaru still for ~$50) Repalce Crank seals front an back. New HGs Resael oil pan with "the Rgiht Stuff" or other quality RTV. Throw the cork gasket away. MAYBE pull the pistons and replace rings. But again, there is not gonna be any real benefit to splitting the case to go after rod bearings.

one is in the column attached to the lock cyl. This one keep you from turning key all the way to "off" unless the shifter is in P The other one is under the shifter. it has to unlatch in order to shift out of P into a gear. It unlocks when the brake is depressed.

Respectfully disagree when it comes to wheeling a subaru. even with the 1.59 lo range, turning 29~31" tires at a reasonable trail crawl speed up a hill means you are running 800-1800 rpms in first lo range. Having to go deep into the throttle more to spin up a heavy flywheel every time you need a blip of power is lame. Light flywheel = Snappy throttle response. IMO that the big wheels are the flywheel in a sense. Albeit, it takes a careful and quick foot to make sure you don't stall it out on a crawl trail.

are you hearing the shift lock solenoid? Or the Lock cylinder solenoid? Both activate during the shift from P to R or D.

be very careful doing this with an EJ oil pan. The tube for the PCV vent return is attached in the rear corner of the pan, and it protrudes above the lip of the pan. If you simply flip the pan over and start hammering, you will drive this tube down to where it will not contact the port on the block. This can cause excessive oil vapor suction into the PCV. Again, "the Right Stuff" brand is the best RTV. I use it for everything. Even EA oil pans instead of the cork gasket. It also makes wonderful removable thread locker for Cam and Crank bolts.

EJ25 flywheel might be a hair heavier. But it's not gonna matter. If you are trying to have hill climb power at low RPM's you want a light flywheel. not a heavier.

The Right Stuff brand is the best ever. Cures like rubber. Sticks very well. Ready to use immediately. Can be had in convenient caulk gun tubes or even easier on the wrist is the Squeeze Cheese can. Like Freddo said, less is more. An 1/8th inch bead is plenty. For reference 1/8th in is barely thicker than a dime. If it's a scenario where the mating surfaces are totally flat with zero gap even less sealant is needed.

I don't think he measn the inner and outer wheel seals. He means the roller bearings some are open cages and some are "sealed" with a dust shield of rubber (RS) or a metal plate (ZZ) I personally like to get the ones with the rubber shield RS. And then I pry the side seals off of each bearing, pack the with grease, then reinstall one dust shield on each bearing. Install them with the open sides facing in towards the spacer. I fill that spacer area between the 2 bearings with about 30% with grease. Too full is no good, but you want some grease to spread when it gets hot int here. still use the factory wheels seals inner and outer but the dust shield in the bearing helps as a secondry barrier.

true I was assuming this was just a HG job.