FerGloyale

In general Forrester seats will sit your but up about 2~3 inches vs. Imp seats. And, I am not sure they will fit at all really, IIRC 08 is when Impreza went all Bubble rounded with teh new body and rear suspension setup. The whole unibody is a different platform than the 07, which shared a direct plattform similarity with all older IMPs and Foresters. Front seats will likely be the only thing that MIGHT fit.

that nub most likely IS the PCV. If it's about 8-10mm. It should unscrew. That's where they put them starting about 2005, along with the AVLS heads and pistons. If it's a bigger port (about 18-20mm, 3/4") then it is an older style block, and likely has the wrong heads and intake to work in your 2010. What happened to yer old block and intake? You may be screwed if you don't have the correct intake, and certainly screwed if you have an older, NON-avls JDM engine.

Yeah that's the only way it would work.

in this old EA platform, with manual trans, the ECU has no way of knowing what gear you are in other than nuetral. This problem will have nothing to do with Rev/forward unless the torquing of the engine against it's mounts in reverse is causeing a Vac leak or bad connection of some kind. Again, the ECU has no idea if you are in reverse or forward gears.

I don't think a ball joint or heim would work for the front. It NEEDS that softness and extra space on each side to flex. with all 3 lateral arms connected, it get's pulled inward and outward. I thikn that's why it's such an "open" mounting with the center bolt about 2" longer than the width of the arm. If that pivot could be more stationary, they would have used a tighter fit mount and bushing more like the 99's. I think with a heim it would bind at the point where the forward "short" link begins to move in or out depending on what point you set it up at "nuetral"if all 3 links used. there owuld come a point were it became a tripod and couldn't move. Or it would break or bend the short arms inner pivot at the subframe. Might work with only the top and rear laterals. But then you would definatley get more toe in at compression, and tope out at droop. Could be mitigated with really long, equal length arms, but that's difficult for the upper.

remove the one from the forester engine. Use the entire Forester intake and hose assemblies. Just use the JDM longblock, avoid small wiring differences that might be on the JDM intake.

it's about your only option now. If you can find others that are better. BUY THEM. we are on the verge of not having. anything but used as an option.....quickly.

does that limit the mileage or uses at all?

PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. As in actively ventilating rather than old school "breathers" Nothing to do with "pollution control" except it keeps oilly mist from spraying out yer engine. It is to prevent build up of corrosive gasses that build up in oil vapors, then re-condense into acids that attack the rod bearings. JDM blocks have the same PCV ports as the USDM in general. Some are altered but all EJ blocks have PCV port eitehr at the intake or on the block near the back right side.

Wow I hadn't even looked into the aftermarket for these in a while. That pump looks sweet. And at a nice price for play projects. Could be a cheapo china pump with a nice fancy housing, but even still I bet it would work great for quite a while. I opted for TRUE Walbro 255. It was that much in dollars, lol. But seriously yeah to the OP, get a new universal, it will be way easier to find correct fittings and hook it up.

Okay. Impreza 242 MM rotors ordered Impreza w/13" wheel brake caliper brackets ordred 1st Gen legacy Knuckles prepped (saving the XT6 knuckles for XT6s) XT6 control arms set to receive EJ balljoints Now we wait.

you wouldn't really notice a problem from 40 miles. What you could experience, is a shorter trans life. Or maybe not. But honestly. Is 10 bucks worth gambling? If you order Idemitsu-HP or Genuine subaru HP in larger amounts you can get it pretty cheap. like 6~7 dollars a quart. Cheapo Autozone garbage is $5 or $6 already, so getting the good stuff is totally worth it when your 4EAT is still rocking at 300k miles. (my current 98 fozzy has 260k on a great running and shifting trans. Subaru fluid only. And if you aren't putting agenuine subaru spin on filter on it, don't bother with any others. Subaru say's theirs is lifetime anyhow. I think it's worth teh $30 for the genuine filter every 50-100k miles.

Exactly. And in the rear it goes under the rear diff. IDK, what you are talking about here. Floor jacks are way more reliable, stronger, and safer than the scissor jack. GD is right. scissor jacks are for emergency use, a few times. Get yourself a floor jack. one like this. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-64260.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTg3OTgzOTciLCJza3UiOiI2NDI2MCIsImlzIjoiNzQuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiMTI5ODAifQ%3D%3D or even better, this ..... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916440 I've got 1 of each, and one more older 3-ton "CarQuest" that's basically like the Harbor frieight above, but a little better quality. Any one of them is far safer than the scissor jack. And all of them can lift to 16+ inches. And if that isn't high enough just slap a chunk of 2x6 or 4x6 ontop of the jack before lifting. But seriously, I can lift my EA81 wheeler with 31s" on it with the Carlyle jack no probs.

Yes distributor timing can be adjusted on this EA82 engine FWD or 4wd. No center diff. Not the issue. possible there is a crack in the air intake boot.

+1 the scissor jack is made to fit over that pinch weld. That's what the slot is for. Although, since I see you are in Wisconsin, lifting from the pinch may be risky. Don't know how much rust yer car has. you should get a good floor jack, and lift from the center of the front crossmember, then put your jack stands at the point you have pictured above.

I could send you a replacement. I have many, many sets of lines removed from XT6s

I use aftermarket a 10" and a 12" toghether on an Stock EA81 radiator cooling the EJ22 in my wheeler. If you buy 2 good quality aftermarket fans, it will work fine. $40-65 each...........from Napa, not $10 ebay fans. But DO NOT use the stupid pull through mounting plastic tabs. These put the fan right against the radiator and vibrations will cause the fan to rub intot he soft brass radiator and make a hole. Or they will break, because they are cheap plastic tabs. take time to build a metal frame that bolts into the OE mounting holes. 1/4" bolt heads slip nicely into the mounting slots. Those bolts can then either be welded or threaded into a piece of angle iron top and bottom. then that angle bolted to the radiator face's OE holes.

All USDM EJ cars the fan is controlled by the ECU. Old EA cars have an actual thermoswitch

Short answer is no. Why would you want to go manual steering? If there is a problem with your power steering, it's an easy system to fix. Lots of options for racks and pumps from many many subaru models will fit that car.

Well, I decided to put this theory to the test. I drove my wagon today with the forward lateral link completely remvoed. It was 1000 times better than with the 6" or so lengthened lateral link. Felt great on flat and bumpy stragiht line, and even in gentle corners BUT............. In hard turns you can feel the softness in the trailing arm bushings, and the rump roast feels very unpredictable and not so safe. SO ..........factory length laterla link will be going back in soon. Pontoon, I've been thinking, with you're 1" longer setup on all arms, do you not need to move the trailing arm mount 1" outward also in order to maintain toe?

EJ25D and EJ20G are actually not quite as wide at the back corners as the SOHC 2.5s are. I've put EJ253 in a XT, but not in an EA81 car. The EJ22E in my 84 wagon fit's BARELY.......about 1/2" clearnace at the back of the valve covers. So tight that while wheeling the engine shifted enough to break off the PCV nipple on the valve cover against the frame rail. It's 6" lifted, but even if it wasn't it would be in the same fit between the frame rails. The EJ251/3 is over 2" wider at the back corner. I guess I just haven't really seen it done. the EJ22E seems the way to go for EA81 cars. or at least 22E heads on 2.5 franken motor

The 07 Tribeca is the most beautiful vehicle in the history of cars that go. From the back it looks like a 2019 Cherokee! *Prove me wrong meme here*

I agree that cases should only be serviced once. Like I said, I have only done N/A engines. Mostly 2.2s A couple EJ18s and 5 or 6 SOHC and DOHC 2.5s of different years. All were within spec, some were in by a red hair, bit still in spec. The few I've seen with bad failure, that were out of spec, (a few DOHC 2.5) I sourced for customers replacement used engine and do HG's and install. those were cases of totally spun main bearing. destroyed block. toss it like yesterdays salad.

With all respect, Have you actually done a SOHC 2.5 swap??? EJ22e is ~29" at the rear of the valve covers. And that leaves about 1/2" from the frame rails. EJ25D is ~30". EJ251/3 is ~311/2" (AVLS models 31 3/4") By my measurements, the SOHC 25 heads are 1/2" taller with valve covers on than the 25D , a full 1"1/4 inch taller than SOCH EHJ22E heads. I really, really , don't thing that the SOHC EJ251/3 will fit. The drivers side head will hit the frame rail in the back near hill holder.

Wagon or sedans 4wd from 80-84 will fit. Hatchback til 89 You really just need the right tool. Chevy spindle nut tool with 2 teeth ground off will fit it.