FerGloyale

+1 and make sure you get a metal stamped gasket for the water pump. Atsugi is a common "box" name brand that sells the OE "Paraut" water pump w/ metal gasket. FWIW, I usually do not replace the tensioner. Saves $150+ bucks. It's large roller never fails, it's always the smaller ones that fail. Usually the cogged one. I on;y replace the tensioner if the hydraulic piston is visibly leaking or otherwise damaged, not expanding properly, etc...If that looks fine I re-use the tensioner.

Wire your FWD circuit (fuse holder) to a switch. Then you can run the mismatch on the rear, in FWD most of the time. Then when roads are wet and slippery, snowy, or gravel, flick the switch off and be in regular AWD I've done this for my cars specifically so that I can run mismatches front to rear. Convienient for when you get a flat too, no need to open hood and find a spare fuse to go to FWD.

Yeah, but FI heads on;y came on turbo cars. So the compression will be low if the pistons are not swapped too.

His 2011 Forester will have the FB engine. Texan's video is an old SOHC EJ, not the same. Plugs are center of heads, horizontal. It's a coil on plug engine, so got to remove the coils first. They are 14mm headed spark plugs, so you'll need one of those type sockets. tricky, requires just the right length extensions. Possible to do in place, but easier if you lift the engine a bit on each side as you service them.

Giles, Your air pipes are shipped. I included a few solenoids for the front struts. Anyhow, I didn't include my home made tool, but I took these pics of using it. You can easily make one from the body of a "bic" pen. Here's the 2 pieces of it. 1 about 1~2 cm max. Sliced down the edge. Other piece about 6 cm, also sliced down the edge. IMG_0102 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Small piece fitted over the air line IMG_0103 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Longer piece now slipped over the first, and pushed up under the locking tabs. Leave the smaller piece puled back a bit still so just the outer tube is under the tabs, all the way. IMG_0104 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Now use a small tool, (tip of my multitool here) and slide the small piece tight up under the first, pushing the tabs outward. Hold pressure against the outer tube to keep the tool tight against the tabs. IMG_0105 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Fingernail used to pull the one tab that lines up on the spit in the tool. IMG_0107 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And then pull the tool, and the line toghether to pop out of the fitting. IMG_0110 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Giles, hope this helps you and others. anyone that needs an Air Compressor for these cars PM me I've got rebuildable ones for parts.

EA82 front struts will not work for an XT6. on;y for a 4cyl XT. He needs Legacy or Impreza struts.

Hey all. Thought I would share a new to me discovery about Subaru Ignition lock cylinder replacement. I had a customer who's 04 Forester Ignition lock failed. Seized up, wouldn't return to "off" position so was draining battery in ACC. So, I call dealership, talk to them about ordering a new lock cylinder. Now, I've done this I think 3 times in the past. Always purchased a new cylinder and customers then just used 2 keys, 1 for doors, 1 for Ignition. Not a big deal as all those cars had keyless entry, so they didn't really need the "door" key ever. Now, for this Forester, the customer does not use keyless entry, and wanted all keys the same. So I inquired from dealer this time, is there a kit available to replace all 3 lock cyls (Ig., Drivers door, glovebox) in the car with matching keys? Well sure enough, AFTER I ASKED, they tell me "oh, yes, there is a whole car kit" It's $60 dollars cheaper than just the Ig. cylinder. DOH! Why the HELL don't they volunteer that info! Anyhow here's the kit for a Manual trans, 04 Forester. I imagine kits for other models are available too, but I haven't confirmed how many. Comes with Master key (top), Sub-master (middle w/code tag) and Valet (does not operate glove box) IMG_0101 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Not worth the time. Sell it for a price that reflects the rot and move on.

Quite possible. Or maybe twisting of the stud from overtightening, without a backup wrench underneath. Or just a crappy Alternator. I'd replace the Alt and the wiring. Can't trust that Alt after that much heat through the circuit. An actual fire! Wow. Seen the wires cooked but never actual flames.

just a spring loaded bumper. Keeps the hatch closing from being a big slam. Also provides the initial "pop" open when the handle is pulled.

This seems really wrong. From the OWNERS manual? or in a "Chiltons" or Haynes type serivce book, I can't believe Subaru ever said to do that. I've read alot of the owners manuals, obviously not from every year, but I've on;y ever read abuot the fuse for Spare use and always read NEVER tow any The fuse is for the donut spare, not towing.

I think the word you are looking for is Japanese. The other way you said it is often used as a slur, not likely to be appreciated here. Also, USDM is their LARGEST and most profitable single market, I doubt they "hate it" Much more likely that the single port is more to do with US emissions and efficiency regulation.

The FWD fuse is not for towing. If you read it that way, you are misreading the Owners manual. Subaru does not advise that, as it's useless without a running motor to drive the AT pump. Never dolly tow any Subaru unless you remove the driveline. Flatbed only. It is there for Donut spare use. Put the Donut on the back and run 2 matching tires on Front. Never use the donut on the front. Manuals trans cars don't have it because they are not electronic, and the basically open center diff in the MT cars will accommodate the tire size difference for a few miles at a time. You can run FWD on the AT cars as much as you want, but it doesn't really help Fuel economy, maybe 1 MPG at most. You are still dragging the rear diff and all it's weight around. I have FWD run to a toggle for convenience, and so I can replace tires in pairs rather than in 4's. I run FWD and then toggle into AWD when on gravel or snow.

Does the Temp gague on the dash seem to be working normally? The reason I ask, is that he 3 pin Temp sensor is traingular, and if it somehow connected rotated to the wrong side (shouldn't be possible, but the tabs get broken) Then the CTS temp signal would be off and give you the code. Or is it possible you have swapped connectors for the Crank and Cam sensor?

USDM EJ22 in 96 went to single port heads. 95 is still dual port. Here, the 95 EJ22E, from an automatic car (with EGR) is the preferred direct swap for 96-99 EJ25D As for Hydro/solid and interference, the solid here started in 97 and were interference. It's hard to say really though, because I've seen JDM EJ20E heads that were roller follower, solid adjuster rockers. And that was definitely an early 90s engine and non-interference.

Not even close. Justy uses 3 cyl, transverse mounted. EJ22 is longitude mounted. MAYBE with lots of fab, EJ22 and a matching trans could be hooked up to Justy axles.

Tap to 7/16th and install a 7/16th stud. Or helicoil. More work, more expensive, but then you retain metric stud if that's REALLY important to you. For the $40 price difference, less work, and leaves more material for later and stronger (no helicoil) I use 7/16th stud.

S'more pics of the modified control arms. IMG_3856 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3857 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3859 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3860 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3863 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3870 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3868 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Making the brackets for the second shock mount. IMG_3864 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3866 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3867 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3867 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr There is still trimming the edges and grinding, smoothing out. IMG_3869 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here is a side by side of an old factory length EA82 arm, with my old second shock bracket on it. Note on the new, longer arm, that the shock mount is moved further forward so the axle doesn't hit the shock. I almost forgot and put it were the old one was, which I think wouldn't work with the balljoint/axle pushed forward. IMG_3871 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3872 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3873 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3874 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I need to get a new tank of Oxygen and Acetylene for my torch. I want to heat and bend before welding around the back side. Also need to plate and weld the bottoms of the shock area with a slider. Neat that it worked out the drop pieces from the square tube center reinforcement, made perfect braces for the lower shock mount and the coming plate. IMG_3875 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Just had to share the ridiculousness of the day. Making a cardboard mock up of the control arm mods to visualize where/how to cut/weld/extend the XT6 arms. Didn't intend to make anything so funny or dirty, but once it happened, my wife and I could not stop laughing for the rest of the night. I spit out beer twice laughing so hard. IMG_3854 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr You're welcome.

And now back to the main event. 5 lug knuckles, with Impreza brake rotors + brackets, swapped for EA slider upper slide pins. New Balljoints. AND the big reveal........Modified 2011 Outback front struts fitted with 03 Outback rear springs! The '11 fronts and the '03 outback rear shocks have the same travel, and distance from spring perch to top, so the springs should be just the right length, And the rump roast of the 03 is pretty heavy, should hold my little EJ22'd EA body pretty well. IMG_3833 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Close up of the spring perch clearance. It only works with the knuckles tipped all the way "out" on the camber bolts. Should be fine though as it's going on an EA81 body. In fact I may need to slot the mounting tabs to tip the wheel out away from the strut even more if there is too much negative camber. Either that or build adjustment into the new front lift blocks for the tophats. IMG_3838 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3834 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr If these springs don't handle the weight of being in front, I can at least now use narrower springs, there are options for 4 runners that should fit nicely. But I am hopeful these outback springs will be just about right. I don't want the front too stiff. IMG_3837 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Nextup, Lengthen and beefup XT6 front control arms!

I would be skepticall of that diagnosis. The rear diffs almost never fail unless they were run dry. Rear wheel bearings are more likely. You ratio is either 3.9 or 4.11. Probably 4.11

inner tie-rods or steering rack bushings.

Hi-jacking my own thread again. Spent the day yesterday with what began as a brake pad swap, but turned into this. Sorry for bad pic IMG_3825 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had been wanting and gather parts for this little endeavor for quite a while. Lateral links swap, and spacer lift for the top of the struts. I had also been toying with the concept of a "rear end tuck" by using Standard legacy cradle in place of Forester. IMG_3826 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3827 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr 2 out of 3 goals accomplished. And for the third, the cradle swap, I discovered good info. I had thought like Leg Vs. Outback that there was a difference in the cradle height between Legacy and Forester. In Outbacks, there is a spacer, I had thought that spacers worth of height would be built into the Forester cradle. But Forester body must be built different and uses a nice, tucked up cradle no spacer, no extra height. Sadly, there is not in terms of height or much else. Diff rear bolts on both cradles are exactly 4-3/4" below the mounting point on the unibody rails. So there was no good cause to swap the cradles. I went ahead and just swapped the lateral arms. Since I had deleted the rear swaybar, the brackets on the Forester links were just hanging down for nothing. The rear 1st gen Legacy links are stronger and don't have anything hanging down. The front links from the legacy are also stronger than he stamped steel forward arm from the forester. Pics are Legacy cradle at bottom, Forester cradle at top. Painted black arms are 1st Gen Legacy in position comparing to the Forester counterparts. IMG_3828 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here is the final result, after the "brake Job" was done. 1" Front lift spacer, 1-1/2" Rear spacer. IMG_3830 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3829 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Cutting and welding the back end is the way to go. Good job. So much extra sheetmetal gone. That thing is gonna wheel awesome with that much tire and no lift. Might have a low walkover, but otherwise it's gonna be sweet, no lift block weight, no blocks to rip or bend. I admire this build for simplicity. Let's go wheelin when it's done. Brown's camp?

yes that's definitive fault in the Alternator