FerGloyale

I can see it when I click on it. He may have it set for his friends only

If you say the Forester is a horrible offroader, why do you want to turn your loyale into a downgradeed body Forester? I mean that's what you would have if you swap all yer suspension? And the GL rear unibody is really not engineered to support the macpherson type strut design of the Forester rear end. You will need HEAVY crossbracing. Seems like you'd be better off lifting the forester. Of course I really can't understand what yer goal is because you write as one unbroken run on sentence. I know you are childishly stubborn about no punctuating ANYTHING. It's very annoying to read your posts.

I here ya. But I'd rather have my $50. Besides I do this for a living so I don't buy anything less than Carlyle, Blue Point, or Cornwell at a minimum, if not Mac or Snap-on. So a good pass through set would cost $200+ for good quality. For how often I have needed something like this, it's not worth buying a whole new tool when I can make something for basically nothing. Of the hundreds of strut jobs I've done, I've only needed a tool like this 3 or 4 times. (if I'm replacing a strut and it gives me problems, I just slap channel locks on the strut rod to hold it.) Only really need this tool if you are trying to reuse a strut.

yup. "preloaded" strut assembly. I don't think KYB makes them.....only monroe and gabriel??? I wouldn't go that route. I would buy a set of used OEM and put those springs on new brand new struts, or just run the used for a while and see if they are decent. I would never put Monroe garbage struts on a subie. Definately stay away from "Sensen" struts.........chinese junk.

Sure maybe. But when I think of "pass through socket" I think of those gear wrench type sets that use a ratchet and sockets with an external engagement. this is much simpler, cheaper, and just as effective. good thing theres 2 ends of the bar. But In my case it was a rear strut. 14mm. New nut was 17mm but I just used a standard socket and impact driver. No need to do the pass through But hey, I am always fine with making tools. Do it once......never need to do it again.

FWIW, it is unlikely that a single ground wire is causing this problem. ALL of the dash wiring has multiple, redundant, web of ground wires that ground to several points throughout the body. Nearly all of them are simply black. There are one or 2 systems with individual B/W wires at the item for ground, but they ALL tie back to the all black spider web of grounding in the harness. I would suspect the wiring that goes to and from the interior dimmer switch.

to avoid confusion, please use the term "CV axle" or "half shaft" to describe what you are calling "drivelines" A "driveline" typically refers to the shaft between the trans and differentials. Since our cars trans have internal front diffs, we only have one " driveline" to the rear diff. Commonly called in the subaru world the "center driveline" or "rear driveline" or just driveline.

Think those colors are wrong. yellow and yellow red wires are for speakers. You need a green single pole (batt power) and IIRC Blue/red wire will be the switched 12v

I usually use an impact. But sometimes that doesn't work. Happened to me just a few months ago. I Drilled a hole in a piece of flat steel. Welded a 14mm, 3/8th drive socket to the steel over the hole. Bar with socket goes overt the strut top nut. 5mm allen on a ratchet goes through the hole/socket and into the strut rod center. Turn allen clockwise to remove nut. Or hold allen still and rotate the bar/socket combo counterclockwise.

Bad or improperly installed trans mount. Allowing the tail of trans to lift up when reversing, which pushes against the shift rod in the wrong direction and pops the trans into nuetral. the fact that the problem was in both trans shows it's not likely a tranny issue. You probably did not need a trans replacement. The shop just F-ed something up doing the clutch job.

They will fit on foresters up to 04 at least I know. It's the 2000+ Outbacks that got the big brakes and minimum 16" wheels.

not nessecary. And you'd have to drop the exhaust first. Pull the airbox, and the battery and washer res. Use a 3/4 deep socket on the shouldered end of the spark plug socket. No wobbles needed. Just 2 sockets and 3/8th drive ratchet.

Push and Pull the shift rod straight, with no rotation through it's positions. This will be 3 and 4th, with neutral between. Set the rod to the middle detent, neutral. Now you should be able to rotate the shaft a very small amount. It will not rotate off the 3,4 shaft unless it's in neutral. Use a screwdriver or long skinny bolt through the rods hole if you need the leverage to ratate it. After rotating left at the neutral position, push in on the shaft. one click, this should find 1st gear. Puling back, while keeping the slight rotational pressure, should click you back though neutral and into 2nd. one click forward back to neutral, then rotate all the way right, and click forward once for 5th. and back 2 clicks for reverse. Check the 4wd rod too. Puled all the way back is 2wd pushed forward one click gets you to 4wd hi. One more click should get 4wd low (you will see the rod along the right side of trans move when low engages)

Yes all subaru rear diffs with "male" stubs in them use the same stubs. You don't need to mess with the side bearing retainers at all. the stubs remove easily by removing the bolt in the center of the stub. IIRC it requires an E10 (reverse torx basically) deep socket. Usually only a 1/4 drive type will be thin enough to fit in the hole in the middle. The tricky part is holding the diff and pinion shaft from rotating while loosening. not hard if done on car but if the diff is out it's tricky. I have a pinion flange and an old cv axle cup both welded to long bars of steel to use as holders.

The washers in the pic are incorrectly stamped. The "dome" of the washer should be out. So that when the nut tightens it will be forcing the spring washer down, not compressing intot he already dished side. Just search "spring washer" and read about them in general. They are to be installed whichever direction allows the "spring" to be constant against the pressure of the nut.

Way too long without moving the radiator and front support. Also the EG33 is an odd duck for parts, not supported anymore really. Becoming the next ER27 quickly. If anything use an early EZ 30......common parts, easy and common ECU wiring (pre-immobilizer) better and cheaper to drop a 96-99 DOHC 2.5 in if you want power. Swap the 93 22 wiring onto the 2.5 mani and yer done.

old name was Combination of GL and Loyale cause those were the cars I was rocking. Now I don't have any ea82 cars (except my XTs) My regular daily is my metallic green Forester, named Fergie. So FerGloyale

Hey I'm Back as FerGloyale. Updates on this car soon to come.

OMG.........Just saw the "1" post count again........damn

Hello USMB family! It's Gloyale now FerGloyale After trying and tryting since hte site change, I was unable to recover my old account here. Don't have that ol' Earthlink or Charter or whatever the heck it was in 2004 ISP based email anymore! So I am back. Rocking some new subies in the stable, as well as the old favorites. I may not be as active as I once was on here......but likely I will be around quite a bit. If you are someone who I had PMs about getting parts from me please contact me, as I have lost all of those communications and contacts. Good to be back. Regards, FerGloyale