cd45

Turbone, yes it is AT. Thanks, I will try that some more today.

cob, that Brat really looks good. I can't wait until I get mine fixed.

OK, JB Weld set up for a good 36 hours. Hooked up all the vac lines. It did not smoke when I first started it. It started smoking after I drove it for a mile or two. It seems to get worse every time it is started.

I replaced the intake manifold gaskets today. The old ones didn't look too bad but, I figured they were cheap and easy and might be part of the problem I am having with the Brat smoking. Filled hole in manifold under the carb with JB Weld, made sure everything was level, and smooth. Put the manisfold back on, and torqued it the way the book says too. When I pulled the old ones off, there was RTV all over the edges. I put the new ones on dry, just like the book says to. Got everything back together, filled the radiator back up, let it idle for a few minutes and checked for leaks, no leaks. Drove it around the block, plenty of power, almost no hesitation. Pulled back in the driveway and there was a little bit of smoke. Then it started stalling out real bad, so bad it died. Restarted, and idled fine. Now it smokes like I am pouring anti-freeze down the carb. I have run out of ideas.

I have replaced all the gaskets in the carb, and under the carb, even the adapter plate. I did what you guys told me to do, I put JB Weld in the coolant hole in the intake manifold. I let it set for 24 hours after I reinstalled the adapter plate and carb. After I got in from work today, went out and started it up, drove it around the block, no smoke. After I pulled back in the drive, it started smoking to beat the band. I am at a loss. I will pull the carb and adapter off tomorrow. If it does not leak, could it be the intake manifold gaskets? I ordered a new set today, just in case. They are easy to replace anyway, and only $3 a set. According tho the Haynes manual, the manifold gaskets could be part of the problem. I just can't figure out why it waits until it gets completely warmed up. It never smokes until the cooling fan comes on. Please help, I am lost. P.S. The smoke is not from the oil, I know what that smells like, and this is not that smell.

It is flat. I used a ruler edge and could not get a .001 feeler gauge under the ruler.

I carry a small kit in my car at all times. I have some granola bars, water, change of clothes, gloves, and a vest with lots of pockets. Now that it is getting colder, I will add a winter coat. I will have to build another kit for the Brat when I get it on the road.

I have the 3AT in the 84 Brat. There does not seem to be any issues, it shifts smooth, and will spin the tires if I take off too fast. I filled it back up after I changed the radiator, since I lost most of it. Does the tranny have a filter like GM trannys? Thanks.

I replaced all of the gaskets in and under the carb, had a slight vacuum leak. Now, I have a bad smoking problem. I have replaced the gasket under the adapter for the Weber carb 3 times, and it always let coolant leak after about 10 minutes of running. I was told to fill the hole with JB Weld. Would that hurt anything? I know the Weber does not use the heat of the coolant like the Hitachi carb did, just wondering if there is any flow through that area if the manifold. Please help, after this is fixed, it is road ready.

Thanks GD, I sent them an e-mail, just haven't heard back from them yet.

Thanks guys. Right now, I have the advance plugged, and the line to the manifold plugged. It still has a small stumble when you take off but, if you push the pedal smoothly and evenly, it runs fine. I am still looking for a vacuum advance to replace the bad one. If any of you find one, let me know. I know we can make a deal.

Thanks guys, I will try this when I get home. If any of you find a vacuum advance, I still want a good one.

HELP! I cannot find another disty locally. The only one I found is the Nippondenso. I have the Hitachi. The advance will not interchange. If anyone has a good vacuum advance, with 2 mounting screws, I am very interested. I really want to drive the Brat. Let me know, we will work out a deal.

What would happen if I put the old coil back in, and then plugged the end of the vacuum advance? Would the car run right? Would my mileage suffer? I have no idea.

I am running an MSD coil in it right now. Will that make a difference?

I went to the junk yard yesterday, and they had a disty for the Brat. I pulled it, after I made sure the vacuum advance worked. Brought it home and cleaned it up. Pulled the vac advance. I got home from work tonight, went out, and they are different disty's. The one I have is a Hitachi, the one I got is a Nippondenso. The local parts house has the cap for the nippon, but the rotor they list is the same as the Hitachi. I tried the one I had, and it is not the same. I plan to fo to town tomorrow with the parts to see if any of the parts houses have one. I hope.

When I worked on A10 engines for the USAF, we used Milk of Magnesia for the anti-sieze on the bolts. I still use it on the Subie. Works great, and no harmful side effects like the lead based anti-sieze. I have been running my 87 without covers for almost two years, and no problems. It also stays on the road being my daily driver.

I put a switch in line with a fuse. It has worked perfectly for over a year. I ran it to the fuse box, and a ground. It is one of the best things I have ever done to my wagon.

I have owned a few different cars from different makers. AMC, Toyota, Suzuki, Opel, Mazda, and Olds. They were alright. The best were the Toyota, and the Suzuki. The Toy was good because it was my first new car. The Suzuki was good because it was 4WD, and I really needed it while stationed in Germany. They had snow on the ground from early Nov til April. I used the crap out of while I was there. Now that I have a Subaru, I wish I could go back in time and tell myself to go buy a Subaru, they were cheaper than the Toy I bought, and there is more vehicle for the money. I get crap for the Soob from the guys at work, then when we have to do anything as a shop that is outside, everyone wants to look at my car. They can't believe that I have been driving it for almost 4 years. They have all changed cars at least twice since I got the wagon. And las January we had a major ice storm. I ws the only person in the neighborhood who was able to get out of my drive. This is the best car I have ever owned. Keep it! Keep it working and drive the crap out of it.

Found part of the problem. The vacuum advance is bad. It will not hold vacuum. I called the local parts houses, and they do not carry the vacuum advance, but they do carry the whole disty for $180 plus a $3 core charge. The EGR is also leaking a little. That is an easy fix, gasket, and a metal plate under the EGR, no more leak.

I reset the float when I replaced the gaskets. The kit also came with a new valve for the float. I made sure it was right before I put it back together. I checked for a vacuum leak when I got it running. I used carb cleaner around the whole intake system, and could not find any leaks. Thanks for the input.

Thanks, the doors are already hacked. I am going to put speakers there to cover the holes. Thanks guys.

Acceleration pump was replaced when I replaced all the gaskets in the carb. I thinj the timing is off 1 or 2 degrees.

I need a radio diagram for my 1984 Brat. Some nice guy from the board gave me one for the 1987 wagon that I have, now I need one for the Brat. Thanks.

OK, Brat runs great. It just has a hesitation when you step on the gas. If you push slow and steady, it runs great. If you push the pedal all the way, it lags for about a second. I will get it fixed. I found the relay, and I will try to find a new one.