calebz

Now that sounds like a sainted Irish Grandmother

It helps if you turn the light on in the garage:lol: No harm No foul

There are no Turbo Carb'd soobs.. Unless it was a Custom, one off or concept type car

I would think that a 2wd legacy trans would bolt up to an EJ20

Maybe its just me.. But I just go into the parts store and tell them what I need (make, model, year, accessories) and they give me the right belt...

Yup, its a 3.70 FT trans from an 88 turbowagon. I have the shifter and center difflock switch too(actually, I have the whole car:)) I had considered using my Pushbutton 4wd shifter, using the button for the difflock, but decided against it based on the fact that I have all the stuff to do it right and I have never liked that bright orange button on top of the shifter.. Further update.. LSD is in.. one of the rear axles only had 1/2 of a roll pin on the inner joint.. only things left to do are hang the exhaust and put the starter in.. then it will be on to the IC install!!

He's using an FMIC I on the other hand have an 87 RX7 TMIC

yup, its the same type of system as the XT.. cool when they work but.......... Just replace it with standard struts and sell the air ride stuff .. especially if it still works... more money that way

I had a similar problem on my 88 wagon. the seal at the tranny had gone bad and allowed oil to move up the inside of the cable into the speedo housing.. only fix I know of is to replace the gauge if thats what has happened. I would try a new cable first though.

That looks great! The PC fans work well for amp cooling. They are 12v and can be mounted anywhere

Update: FT4WD trans is in.. just need to hook up all the stuff. should be done tomorrow, along with the LSD. Thanks to John(78turbobrat) for the extra muscle. Made all the difference.

Sounds like you are hearing your fuel system pressurizing. You are correct in thinking that your fuel pump is toward the back of the car, but on mine, I can still hear the system building pressure under the hood when the key is first turned on... Maybe the change in its sound also has something to do with it taking a few seconds longer to start.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14802 Donate to the cause and you may be rewarded with what you seek

Not a chance if subaru keeps up the way they have been going.. Bring back the EJ22 and EJ22T and you are more likely to find me here.

Brian.. the price you paid for the legacy clutch doesn't compare with an XT6 clutch.. completely different beast... $1100 is quite a chunck of change, but the peace of mind knowing it was done right can be worth it

That is sooo pimp.. I would give up my GL-10 interior for those..

I second that. If its a real shop, file a complaint with the BBB.. If hes some backwoods no teeth havin redneck wrenchtuner, you ar SOL. Exact your revenge however you are able, don't get caught and get another Soob.

-- For 1984 through 1986 Fuel Injected Models -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Ignition Pulse 12 Starter Switch Off 13 Starter Switch On 14 Airflow Meter or Circuit 15 Atmospheric Pressure Switch - Fixed Value 16 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 17 Starter Switch or Circuit 21 Seized Air Flow Meter Flap 22 Pressure or Vacuum Switches - Fixed Value 23 Idle Switch - Fixed Value 24 Wide Open Throttle Switch - Fixed Value 25 Throttle Sensor Idle Switch or Circuit 31 Speed Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Coolant Sensor or Circuit 34 Abnormal Aspirated Air Thermosensor (In Airflow Meter) 35 Air Flow Meter or EGR Solenoid Switch or Circuit I just replaced the hotwire MAF on my 87 last week.. it idled fine drove ok.. was only really bad under accelleration at higher speeds.. plus I was only getting 15 MPG.. Just goes to show they do go bad in different ways

I have one off an 86 turbo .. let me know if it will work for you. BTW, there were some NA MPFI wagons in 85, possibly in 86 too, so don't rule them out if you are looking in the junkyards.

Which AC unit does it have? Ther were 3-4 different ones mounted in 2 different locations. For your purposes, manufacturer isn't as important as location. If it is between the atlernator and the battery(outboard), you can just but a belt for one with no AC. If its between the power steering and the alternator, you will probably have to actually remove the compressor. Either way it can be done.

Digidash done.. only took about 45 minutes.. that was easier than I thought it would be. LSD will be done tonight or tomorrow. Tranny will be done monday evening. I would do it all at once, but its all getting done in the evenings so I can still drive the car during the day

I always use at least a 1 farad capacitor when My system gets above about 600 watts.. combined with a decent alternator, that should take care of your problems.. I believe SubaruStyles is using an XT6 alt.. its 90 amp

Dead alt.. classic symptoms.. dash lights, running crappy... Thats why I sold my 1300 watt system when I started driving the soob.. it just can't handle it without some extra help for the charging system

Over the course of the next 10 days(or less), My humble little TurboWagon is going to recieve a few new things. 1) Pushbutton 5 speed is coming out. Will be replaced with a FT4WD S/R 5 Speed with center locking diff 2) 3.70 Open diff is coming out. To be replaced with .. you guessed it a 3.70 LSD:) 3)Original digidash replaced with Digidash that reflects the FT4WD 5 speed .. for those of you that remember, the wagon was originaly an auto.. I remedied that problem last year, but never got the right digidash to go with it. 4) RX7 TII intercooler and BPV to be installed. I have all the plumbing done for the IC, but my pipes don't have a bung for the BPV. Not sure how I will get around that yet. Temp brackets also done. Will have permanent ones fabbed up soon. Haven't decided on a hood scoop yet... Gonna make sure everything else goes smoothly before I start cutting anyway Will update as progress is made

Cool deal. Must be an 85-86 thing. I just got doen putting my dash back together and I didn't have any extra wiring that wasn't in use. I haven't ever seen a rear gate switch on an 87+ GL-10(have had 4 of them now:) ) Would be a nice feature to have.. of course , then again, if I unlock my drivers door, it unlocks everything, so ignore everything I just said Very cool for you though