calebz

I have sold a few for the $35-$40 range Wanna buy another?

Water temp sensor is easy. A few bucks at home depot for some fittings and you can T it in to one of the heater hoses.

Nope, nothing wrong with yours. But Rob is right. Even my wagon probably would have gone to the crusher had I not needed the carcass. Hell, I bought one on ebay that I drove home 40 miles - just to be gutted for parts. Some went to the white wagon, I think Ken took the seats and Rob got the rest.

Has this become a 'post your white wagon' thread? Because I have one too

Looks good. I understand about the time thing. After over a year, I still don't have my side skirts installed.

In that case, you will have to do the same mods to the up and downpipes as you would for a TD04. There are a couple different ways to handle the uppipe side of it. Check some of the older threads in the retrofitting forum for details -

Nah - aside from the fact that its a DL, it doesn't really look any worse than my wagon did when it started. Remember what a clusterfrack that was? There was that red 87, on the other hand, it was almost a runner and driver - that got scrapped six ways from sunday

Seems to me it would be easier to just use a shorter spring/strut combo

Not sure about the Larger VFs, but the TD04 has three mounting bolts on the uppipe. 2 of them line up to the stock EA flange.

Thats for NEW? Damn - that is a good deal.

Go for it! Theres quite a feeling of accomplishment the first time you do it successfully. If you can do the T belts, theres nothing you can't do on these old cars. Here is Miles' timing belt replacement walkthrough. I have never used it, but I have heard its right on the money. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

Sounds like about where I'm at. For the price of the work on the VF7, I'm sure one of thTXIC guys would sell you a TD04 takeoff.

Theres a splashguard that many people simply bend out of the way when doing axles. Its quite possible that is could be bent in such a way that it is damaging the boot.

*furiously forwards this thread to Ben's wife*

Yup - Just looked at mine. Theres a hose coming off that nipple that goes to the switch that turns the 'turbo' light on on the dash (the switch is mounted on the pass side fenderwell, right in front of the strut tower). It also T's off to the vacuum cannister that operates the HVAC controls. Dunno if thats how it goes in a stock configuration, but thats how mine is set up.

For starters, Plug em. That one on the left is a guaranteed vacuum leak . That, and others like it are the reason for your crappy idle. Will also serve as a boost leak when you get on it. The component on the right is either the EGR solenoid or purge control solenoid. Follow the lines to see if it goes to the EGR or purge canister. (its been so long since I removed all that stuff, I can't remember which is which. My first soob was also an 88 GL10 Turbo wagon. Most reliable soob I have ever owned.

I disagree. Every 4wd wagon I have had has had the positive camber issue. And every on has worn the outer edges of the front tires at a disproportionate rate.

Worked out quite well on mine:grin:

I have yet to have a subaru digidash temp gauge of any year function correctly and consistently. First thing I would do is install an aftermarket gauge somewhere. Second thing I would do is install a new radiator. You have already replaced pretty much everything else. Make it a clean sweep. Your wagon will thank you.

Typically, on a catted system, the O2 is mounted in one of the cats. If you get some other exhaust, it will probably have to be made. At that point you are pretty much free to do whatever you want. From the turbo to the tip of my exhaust, the only subaru part is the downpipe flange. And thats from a WRX . My O2 is mounted in the downpipe, pretty close to the stock location, but theres no cat there. I simply run 2.5 inch all the way back with a dynomax muffler.

I figured it was a typo. Its just so rare that you give me such a good chance to poke you with a stick - I couldn't pass it up :-p IMO, each setup has its advantages. The EA82T can be done on the cheap if you have the right access to parts and have a lot of friends with Subarus. When you start getting into modding, you can spend 3k on an ea82, you'll get a couple hundred horsepower, and if done right it should be reliable. For the same price, you can get an old WRX front cut, have a couple hundred horsepower and be reliable. In that scenario, the EJ wins because it still has a ton of untapped potential. The EA wins because it can be done over a period of time without a huge up front investment. I have stuck with EA thus far for that reason. It has been good in other ways as well. All this experimenting on the wagon has really rounded out my repertoire of creative swear words. My budgetmobile will continue on as an EA car until my supply of EA motors is exhausted, or I find the magic combination of stuff that makes up the holy subaru grail - cheap, reliable and fast. Since that is unlikely (unlikely because it probably doesn't exist), I will probably end up running out of EA motors and be forced to go with an EJ or ditch the wagon and try something else. EDIT: Yup, it was an SPFI block - Will have an NA MPFI block soon. I did have a 5th injector on a hobbs switch on there for a while. The new setup does have larger injectors, and I will reinstall the 5th injector as well if necessary. I also have a slightly larger than stock FPR on there. 43psi above manifold pressure, as opposed to the stock 36psi

Not bad! Thats about what mine looked like when I got it. Same color interior and everything.

I gave you a break. After you saw the light

You can't possibly be serious. Are you really this addled? I'm going to suggest you stop posting for a while and read - get a feel for the place.

Is there something specific about a the process of aligning a subaru that is substantially more difficult than other makes and models? This is a loaded question. I have done alignments on old school soobs and non soobs.