calebz

Any GL, GL-10 or Loyale - 85-94 Lengths are slightly different depending on body style and drive train. So if yours is a 4wd wagon, look for shocks from another 4wd wagon.

Not bad. I have been lobbying to get ours moved to Dec 21

No dude - thats last night's taco bell.:-p

The didn't pay more than $100 for that thing. The didn't even really pay that, I'm sure. They gave a $100 on trade (maybe even up to $500 if the buyer was a hardass), sold a new car for $2000 more than its worth, and are making money again on the old beater - By trying to sell it to an unsuspecting victim for higher than market value, higher than book value - and at a when it will have some prettty major maintenance due (which I'm sure the previous owner just had done, but the dealership 'lost' the paperwork) Car dealers are thieves. Subaru and Toyota dealers seem to be the worst of the lot. But hey. Thieves have to make a living too.

Argh. Nothing yet. Trying to get ahold of a local guy that might have a spare turbo laying around.

Yup. Not an uncommon tale. I think mine lasted a whole 10 months. Blew up 70 miles from home while out camping in the middle of nowhere with my wife and kid. Thankfully, a friend whom I met through this board when I moved to TX was kind enough to come down there at midnight with another coil.

That would only apply if you were using an IC the size of a damned house. How much extra time do think it takes to pressurize something the size of a WRX IC? If the difference in lag time is more than 1/2 second with and without IC, I would be very surprised. Not to mention that LARGE intercoolers rarely produce more than 1 PSI drop.. And I mean Ford F650 large.

Key phrase - since the 90s The ones made in the past few years are crap - verifiably crap.

If you are leaning toward the accel, do a search on them here before you spend the $$

not like you guys haven't seen this before. but what the hell Currently partially dismantled: 87 GL-10 TD04 WRX IC 5 lug swap with adjustable coilovers WRX wheels 20mm sway bars front and rear Some gauges Some other crap Might actually be on the road again in the next month or so. I started parting it out a while back. Have yet to sell anything I can't replace easily. Once it is up and running how I want it, it might go up for sale whole.

PM or IM me with your setup and we'll troubleshoot. I know of a few things that would make it act like that, but don't want to hijack the thread

If you have some good recipes for dining on subarus, I would be interested to hear it. The fact is it is a pain in the rump roast to sell cars to canadians. I have done it enough times. Will probably not do it again. I don't even sell parts over the border anymore. Its a pain in the rump roast. Transporting them to other parts of the US is cost prohibitive. We're talking about labor, paperwork and $$ for a stripped down $50 car.

Its pretty easy to tell when something like that happens. If your gauge says your motor is running at 50 degrees, chances are theres no coolant. The situation as you described it won't happen. You will either see superheated coolant temps during overheat, or temps WAAAAAYYYYY below normal. Eaither is a good indicator of a problem

Yup. Dunno what numbers it will produce though. Never put mine on a dyno. I just kept beating on it until it blew Thats what spare motors are for. Do all you can to get more fuel when boosting. A hobbs switch with a 5th injector might be a good idea if you are going to continue on with the stock ECU Look in my gallery and search my username, there is a lot of TD04 discussion that has taken place.

Cars like that get tossed all the time. They don't rust away there as much as in other parts of the country/world

Good luck with that. You would have better luck going to the for sale section on NASIOC. UPgrades are more common that wrecks.. just barely

Doh! I'll see if I can find a set of lines.

I don't recommend the drilling course. After numerous test fits, I endid up welding the TD04 flange right to the top of the stock flange. Worked flawlessly.

I can only find the one in my garage. I know I have 1-2 more floating around somewhere. The one I have is good though. However, all the oil and water lines have been removed. - Some for my TD04 swap, and one for a GT35R on an STi :-p. If you have the existing turbo on your car still, the lines will swap right over.

Acck.. Phiz is right. Those are redrilled hubs

I may be mistaken, But as long as the springs are seated correctly in the upper and lower perches, you should be ok.

Underpowered? yes. Unreliable? Only if you suck at maintenance. (Or life in general). :-p - Or if you mod the hell out of it for the sake of pushing it until it explodes - Not that I would know anything about that..

Cool. I'll check back here tomorrow with more info.

That might have been useful information in the first post. Having never looked at goodwill for cars (or ever seen one for sale at goodwill), there's no way I would have known that. You simply stated 'stupid oregon law' as though everyone should know all the details. Was it a turbo wagon? I'm going to guess that your experience with EA82 cars is probably limited, or you wouldn't be here asking if this is a good deal. EA82Ts need to be kept cool. The condition you described indicates that its possible that may not be the case. Without being able to really investigate (Read: test drive), You may be paying 1200 for a $300 car. Your choice. Personally, I like to spend money on stuff that works. I'm funny like that though. Oh - almost forgot - welcome to the board. There is a wealth of information here for those that take the time to listen.

The choice of turbos has been well covered above. As far as an extra radiator goes, if your existing radiator is good, you should be just fine with that. With mine (oversized 2 core), if it is below 60 out, I barely even get to operating temp sometimes. Makes for a real rich run when its really cold out.