calebz

100% correct - except that it is completely rump roast backward.

Actually, the term that covers the rate/completion of the burn cycle is deflagration, which is in no way affected by octane rating

Seemed like a good idea at the time. And no, it wasn't me

Curious about the 118 limit. Is that a speed/rev limiter, or do you run out of gears? What gas were you using for the track time?

Thats exactly how I feel about carbs. ECUs are easy to diagnose/fix usually.. No moving parts!

+1 ..

Make sure you factor in drag coefficient, wind speed and altitude.

First bit of advice - post new gen stuff in the new gen section Moved Welcome to the USMB!

To be fair, you should probably include the fact that that thing is slammed to the ground.

40 series usually result in bent rims? My Acura - stock - comes with 235/45/17. (Gotta have room to clear the big-rump roast brembos) Even on the crappy roads around here, I haven't seen any get trashed. nearly anyone with a 17 or larger wheel uses 40 series tires. that goes for stock and aftermarket. 17s on the RX will work just fine at stock height some 225/45/17 will put you at almost the same outer diameter as stock wrx wheels and tires. And it will leave a little room to play with the suspension without a bunch of rubbing issues.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75750 Anything in that thread from Ed is gospel. The stuff from Gloyale is usually good as well(Though I don;t always agree with his methods). Read, read, read, read. Look at your car. Read again. Get tools. Read again. Then swap your axle out. And if I hear about you doing this without even a cheapo pair of harbor freight jackstands, I'm gonna come whoop you rump roast myself.

Nope - its already been posted there like 4 times. Let new gen take the overflow this time :-p

Boost leak is one of the first things I would look into. If theres still a problem after the tune up of course

Thats cool - I appreciate a well kept old car. I appreciate their value. I was just curious what made his brat too good for one of the largest selling mechanisms the world has ever known.

It just did.

Nothing wrong with a honda. I have an old soob and now, a newer honda (acura). I got it because it was cheaper than an equivalent soob and I expect it to last damn near forever.

nope

Quick note - If the problem only manifests itself under boost, it shouldn't be the O2 sensor. The stock ECU ignores the O2 sensor when under boost. +1 on a complete tune up. Are you getting any ECU codes?

Gonna bet you are correct. Oh - 5 lug FTW!

Just how much of a special/collectors vehicle do you think a brat is? Not really trying to be rude about it, but is it factory gold plated or something?

1. You will see little to no gain from that coil over stock on an SPFI car. 2. You are in one of the coldest areas of the nation. If you go with a lower T-stat, its very possible (and even likely) your car will never even reach operating temp for half the year.. Your dad may not know subarus, but it sounds like he might now a little about living colder climate area. I don't want to discourage learning - but you have a car that is in no way mod friendly. If it ain't broke - don't fix it. If you want something to mod , drive your subaru and enjoy the relative reliability of the SPFI EA82. All the while shopping around for something moddable.

Thats just it - there is no such beast (at least from the factory)

Classic symptoms. New alt time.

Mufflers have no effect on emissions. Personally, I have a 2.5 inch turbo back with no cats and a nice dynomax

In the US, 86 to 87 was the time they went from Vane to hotwire MAF and associated changeds in wiring and ECU. Is this not the case where you are? Also, instead of changing every component and the loom, it is much less time intensive to simply swap the intake manifolds with the associated parts and wiring still attached. EDIT: +1 on the coil. If you have another parts car, slap the other coil in there. Takes 5 minutes and might help quite a lot.