calebz

try these.. copy and paste them.. If anybody cares, ask an I will explain why the others didn't work http://www.geocities.com/wmaham1701/other_files/subaruengines.jpg http://www.geocities.com/wmaham1701/other_files/subaruengines.pdf

What work have you done on it since last ime you started it?

Sounds like a loose battery cable to me.. Also, I seem to remember reading about ignition switches on older soobs doing some strange stuff.. but I would check all my cables first.

The exhaust consists of 1)Downpipe with Built in Cat 2)midpipe with second cat 3)tail pipe with muffler If you have the cash, have the exhaust shop cut the downpipe at the flange, make a new 2.25 inchone without the cat, 2.25 inch midpipe with a 2.25 inch 3 way cat, going to a 2.25 inch tail pipe with a 2.25 inch muffler... it will cost a few hundred bucks, but performance and gas mileage will improve.. If you are short on cash, go to pep boys and buy a bunch of flex pipe, clamps and a cheapo muffler and go to town.. should cost under $100.... Oh yeah.. and don't forget the coat hangers to hang it all up:D

A Trike? Cool! That thing is going to haul rump roast! I'm currently looking for som wiring diagrams for you.. hopefull I will find them soon.

Is it possible the it is OBDII( not OB OII).. that refers to the On Board Diagnostics, Revision II.. which would make it 96(I think) or later. Somewhere around here, I have some .PDF files of parts of 97 and later legacy and impreza FSM's.. perhaps there are some wiring diagrams in those.. I'll check.. What is the engine going in to? To make a standalone harness, the best way i have seen to start would be to pull all the wiring starting at the front of the car and working your way back to the ECU, without cutting anything!! Then seperate all the unnecessary stuff out..wires for lights, windscreen wipers.. stuff like that.. just keep pulling all non engine/ECU related wiring out of the mess until you are left with engine control stuff only.

. Sorry to take this OT, but, Snotrocket.. whats weird about an NA legacy..? most of the Legacies in the US are NA, with the exception of the 91-94 Legacy Turbo.

Perhaps if you were a little more specific about what you are proposing to undertake, someone could help you out.. What car do you have? what motor did it come with? what motor are you trying to put in its place? did you get the ECU and wiring with the new motor?

Short answer.. yes Long answer, you could design and build an adapter to mate the EJ motor with an EA tranny. RallyJusty recently did this.. no word on his success/failures though.

I agree that a group purchase to relieve him of his burden would be in order.. if we can find him..

Down here, theres a gen 1 brat with an EA82T. Contrary to popular opinion, you do NOT have to cut the frame rails. You do have to fabricate new engine and tranny mounts, and the master cylinder is kind of in the way. Custom front axles are also a must, due to length ands spline count issues.. then the fun part.. you get the privelege of rewiring the whole front of the car.

Thats pretty cool. A tip on the Flywheel.. get the bolts with it.. the flexplate bolts aren't long enough. $500 build limit for ice racing? I was on my 4th subaru before I hit the $500 mark

IceRacer 505 turbo? I used to have a 505 turbo.. just sold it last june.. that was the squirelliest damn car.. had a lot more oomph than my soob though.

Yup Rob. when I started, the two were identical, except for the lettering.. and the one I ground down was a lot dirtier and scruffier than the 4wd one was...was lots of fun.. did it by hand.. I was really bored I would have taken a before and after pic, but the before part didn't occur to me until after.

If I may be so bold as to ask a couple of questions here.. First, the EA82 is a non-interferance engine. Given its propensity for eating timing belts, I would say thats a good thing.. If you start shaving the heads, theres a possibility of losing the non-interferance status, no? Second. Instead of shaving, decking, milling, or otherwise changing the valves distance in proportion to the crank, would an easier solition be to use the 8.5:1 compression piston from a carb block? What formula would you use to figure out what the compression loss would be from the 'semi-hemi' modification?

We call 'em front cuts here too.. yeah, we can get them.. usually when we are after something thats not readily available here. If we are just after the motors, we buy crate motors ( no ECU, Wiring and such) Just treat it like a fresh engine and you should be OK..

Haven't gone so far as to polish the inside.. just wanted to do away with those ugly ridges around the top.. unsightly in my ever so clean engine compartment

You still haven't said what engine you are using in the gyro.. that would be helpful.

Is it a turbo? Its supposed to do that I think.. mine always has.. even with a different AAV and intake manifold it still did it.. Every FI car I have ever driven idles higher when its cold.. they are supposed to.. I am just not sure if its supposed to idle quite that high

Yes, the crossmember for the 5 speed is mandatory.. its bigger and sits further forward on the tranny.. the 5 spd actually uses both crossmembers, but the smaller, short one(the only one on an auto) isn't really necessary. Make sure you get the little rubber bushings with the 5 speed xmember

My understanding is that the diff lock uses the same control solenoid setup as the pushbutton 4wd 5 speed.. that means there would be three wires.. one is 12v in, the other 2 are 12 out. One for each solenoid.. when I did my 5 speed conversion, the wires on the pushbutton did't match up to any FSM color codes that I found(including the one for the year of car it was out of).. so I experimented... took about 15 minutes of tinkering to figure out which was which.. when I get my 88 FSM back, I will look at it for you.

I was bored last night, so I took my spare plenum and freshened it up a bit.. Was considering painting it bright yellow to match my coil and wires (wires aren't on the car yet).. But its just so pretty that I don't know if I should...Except for the lettering, the two plenums were identical when I started. The smoothness really appeals to the eye Heres what the old one looks like.. PS.. Thanks to Skip for the idea

Hers info on an 87, but it will be the same for 89 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/1987xtgl.html

A molded hose is one that is created specifically for your application.. generally available at any parts store

Cap'n, I'm glad you found some relays locally. The ones I sent you came back friday with 'undeliverable address' stamped on them. Heres a link for more info on ECU codes http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.39782181.art