calebz

Gary is right. Check here on the board. I sold 2 a while back for between $25-30. Although, if you are not having any functional difficulties associated with the code, I would start with by clearing the codes and checking the wiring. I have had 2 EA82 optical dizzies crap out on me. THey make themselves real obvious when they don't work anymore;)

Air Tools

If you are looking for something to lift, perhaps an 88-89 SPFI wagon would work better for you. The turbos are sorta lacking in bottom end. I spent about $400 on my longblock.. a large chunk of that was for some specialized taps and such that I had to buy to install the carbon steel head bolt inserts that I wanted. I did as much of the work as I could. I paid a local NASIOC guy to weld a small piece for me, and a local muffler shop for a piece of intercooler piping. All other assembly and mods were done by me. Where I started to get into more money was when I bought a bigger turbo, Intercooler, RX body kit.. things like that Oh, and BTW, no boost gauge that I know of in any of the EA82T cars. Granted, mine have all been digidash, but I don't think the analogs had it either. CRX A pillar pod and some guages takes care of that though. Also, there is usually a bit of debate about fuel grades. I always use premium. 90% of the cars I have had over the past 10+ years have been turbo. Most of them asked for 91 and above in the owners manual.

Could be any or all of the above. Either way, if it is a decent price, EA82s are cheap to build.

Thats is for the hill holder. You only need to replace the MC and lines if you intend to keep the Hill Holder. Personally, when I did mine, I stayed with the stock MC, and just put a nice strong return spring on the clutch fork.

Thats a big question with no real direction. Search through the forums (this one specifically), gather some info on your own, then post up if you have any specific questions. Caleb

It does sound like the ignition timing could be too far advanced. Kicking it back could help the valvetrain rattle and your high Idle

I noticed the pic being used is just a stock pick. Not application specific. Am curious what makes these 'stage 3', since they didn't really see fit to post any specs in the listing.

Yeah. King and Pierce pretty much follow the same standards, but boondock places like Thurston have no emissions. Though I hear that will probably change in a few years:( For now I keep teh wagon registered in Thurston County.. Easier that way.

Only ones I have ever seen have been maroon/SPFI/AT

www.ozified.com thats a good place to start;)

Thats actually good info. IIRC, the FSM puts our stock fuel pressure at 36psi above manifold pressure. That should actually yield more fuel than the Nissan factory 259cc/min Looking better all the time

I have to wonder though.. the Z - injectors are 259cc/min, but at what PSI? Seems the stockers came up into the 230s or 240s in a 43psi test. Nice mod. Going to have to keep my eye on this.

Hard to tell what the improvement was. I did the shortblock, Intercooler, TD04 and 2.5 inch TBE all at the same time. As a whole, it kicks rump roast:D

I used the whole NA shortblock with mine. It goes pretty well.. Has aabout6k miles on it like that.. Premium gas? I have driven mostly turbo cars for the past 10 or so years.. they alllll get premium

Additional note: The starter is not always the say between EA82 manuals and autos. it bolts up the same, but some of the autos used a long bodied starter that, when used on a manual, tends to get in the way.

5x100 for the win!

Looks that way to me too. Moving to old gen. More justy owners there.

I beleive archemitis has dealt with this issue first hand, But IIRC, the MPFI ECU and the Turbo ECU were the same or very similar for the 87+ cars

Sorry man, Iam going to have to let someone else answer that for you. I tend to stay away from the pre-87 stuff;)

yes, That is correct 85-86 - 25DBTDC 87+ 20DBTDC

If they are both dizzies from a hotwire MAF /optical dizzy setup (87+), then the connectors don't matter as much. Sounds like what you got was an 88+ dizzy.. there are a few wiring differences between 87 and 88+. No worries though.. most of the diffferences can be easily adapted to fit either year. There is a phillips head screw on the underside of the casing. take it out and you can swap connector pigtails.

The front swaybar on mine was a serious pain as well. Eventually just wrestled it into submission. My car is too low to do it with both wheels on the ground, so I put the car on ramps. Much easier. Still haven't gotten the rear one in yet. That was being a serious pain and I haven't had enough time to bully it in there.

Timeserts do the trick quite nicely

Moving to new gen. PS, try turning the caps lock off. Not nice to yell at everyone with your introductory post