calebz

I can make some various manuals available to you if you have a decent internet connection. There's info there to fill in a few of your blanks, I just don't have the time to dig through them all and find it PM me if interested

The Meet is actually in Hurst. I will probably be there.. Not sure if I'll have the Soob with me though. It will be nice to finally meet you, Carl.

Sometimes a couple good taps with a large rubber mallet will help persuade the hubs to come off.

The wastegate does require some sort of reference vacuum signal. All the duty solenoid does is makes minute boost adjustments for atmosphere/altitude

My WGDS isn't even hooked up to get boost or vacuum. I have a vacuum line that runs from my turbo housing to the wastegate. There is a boost controller between them so I can run happily and quickly at 9 or so psi (damned fuel cut). None of the WGDS lines are hooked up, though it is plugged in to the wiring harness still.. No codes in the past year or so.

Hahaha! I'm glad I'm not the only one thats done that:o

Patrick, Where is your wagon. If you are able to wait, then perhaps after the first I can go have a look at it. My guess is probably a MM gasket. they don't always leak oil, but will make things tick like mad if they are sucking air.

To answer the original question, no the loyale body is not galvanized. IIRC, subaru didn't start doing that until the second gen legacy came along (1995)

What year is it. That will make a difference 85-86 is completely different than 87+

4 months.. Sounds more like doing time than taking a vacation

yup

Really? Every time I see this come up on the board, the only person that responds with a failure is miles fox..and that had something to do with an errant cornstalk or something

There were Dual Carb setups for EA71s anyone know if there was one made from the factory for an EA81 or EA82?

+1 Also, if you are reusing head bolts, do yourself a favor and clean them with a wire wheel first.

Not sure, but its going back

capable of handling 350-450 pound springs?

Not me. I stayed with 9.0:1

What year/style do you have . The advance types are different depending on what you have.

First - there is no carb. Its fuel injected;) Second - the fuel injector sits right inside the throttlebody, in the middle. Pull the air intake tube and you will see where the wires go into the top of the injector. No idea which wire is which.. been a couple years since I pulled an injector from an SPFI car.

Me Will Miles Thats all I can think of at the moment

The bung for the knock sensor is already there on the carb block.. theres just nothing in it. The turbo knock sensor screws right in.

I now have about 6k on the motor. Its not my daily driver. 17mpg or so, plus the fact that its not unheard of for me to drive 300 miles in a day for work, means the wagon was not a good daily driver candidate (for that matter, no 20 year old car was a good candidate) I won't say its been a flawless 6k, but none of my problems have been related to the carb block swap.

you are not the first person to say that. But I have never averaged more than 22mpg.. and thats 5-6 different EA82T cars ranging from completely stock to mildly modded (I think thats what my wagon is now.. mild..)

One would think so, but I had a similar difficulty recently. It was a combination leak BPV and MAF problem.. 10-12 MPG and no smoke. I still get black crap on the garage floor when I first start the car though:-p

When doing what brian is suggesting, you don't have to worry about the manifold and heads.. turbo heads on a carbed block works fine. Brian.. Wy no more 10PSI? thats right about where mine is at and its been ok so far. Also, you say that the chances of being overheated and abused are less with the carb block. How so?