RallyKeith

I agree with the assesment of too much toe that may have started the tread wear pattern in the front and then been transfered to the rear during a tire rotation. Toe is when the tire points in or out instead of straight. Camber is the tire leaning into the car or away from the car. Unless your car has been in an accident, or has bad springs or bushings(or overloaded with cargo) it's really hard to get too much negative camber in a Roo. Also, there is no way to adjust the toe in the rear of the car, which is why I'd agree it might be a carry over of the wear pattern after the tires were rotated. Also, that tire IS spent. Notice the lighter grey areas on that portion of the tread. That is a sign that it is about to hit the metal cord. That can be very bad. I'd start by getting a 4wheel alignment and then new tires. Last time I checked the subaru dealer was actually very reasonable on the alignment. Keith

The way I understand it they used many different TCU part numbers to control the same trans. The difference was all in the shift behavior. The GT models shifted up later and down earlier than the outback models and so on and so forth. Also, I think I was told the main difference in the trans from 2.2 to 2.5 was the first gear ratio. They kept the 2.2 a little lower for better pull off the line. If you can get the part numbers off the trans you should be able to find out the exact differences from a dealer. The part number was on a sticker on the bell housing near the starter. The part number was TZ102Z2ABA on the one in my 96 Legacy GT Wagon. Keith

Why does it have to be a 2.2??? Not every single 2.5 has a head gasket issue.

That would be the dealer now wouldn't it. No offense to Jamie, but I have my own secret discounted source. My prices are usually the same once you add the shipping into the price Jamie can get. Here's another weird question... What are the odds the 2.2 and 2.5 rod bearings are the same being that the main bearing part numbers are the same????

Well, come to think of it... I don't know either, but it does. My first gear is pretty much where it should be, but I hit the knee of who ever is in my passanger's seat when I go for fifth. I think it has something to do with how the shifter is biased one way by the trans itself, and the other way via an external spring... which is another part to replace while you in there. There is a small spring that holds the shifter from being super floppy while in neutral. Mine rusted off before I ever got the car. Still not a problem to drive with it off, but sometimes annoying. Keith

I've been having a bit of trouble finding ROD bearings online for a 96-99 EJ25. Are there any parts stores that carry them, or are they a dealer item? Most places seem to list rings and Mains, but not the Rods. Keith

Uh yeah the two are related. There is a joint between the shift linkage in the car and the shift linkage that comes out of the trans. There are two sets of bushing in that joint. One keeps thing lined up left to right, and the other set front to back. The parts are not that expensive, but from what I hear they can be difficult to replace. As for concern, there is non. I've been driving with shot shift linkage bushings for 40,000 miles. No problems. Keith

So then you're saying that my 95 is not 4.11 or is?

I'll second that! However, it was nice of them to eventually mention that these test were being done by ramdom subaru sales associates.

So, I decided to ask the group for the inside poop on this. One of the input shaft bearings is getting noisy in my 95 Legacy. With 198K on the clock, and some neglect on my part (and the previous owner) it's no surprise it's got problems. My dad has a trans from his 91 Legacy that I could just swap in, but I think the final drive ratios are different. I think I've got a 4.11 final drive, and the 91's had 3.90 but he seems to think his was 4.11 So boys and girls, tell me the truth... Keith

Sorry man, but that looks like you broke a rod and broke through the block. That has 100% nothing to do with the headgasket issues. That's just bad luck. Sorry to see or hear. Keith

Cap was replaced because the seal was shot. The smell started long after the replacment. Also, as I said there is still an obvious sealinf of the tank based on the swoosh of air when pulling the cap off. And, if the filler hose was rotted at all I would know. I top off my tank the best I can because of how much I commute. Not on purpose, but I have already filled it to the point where the filler neck was full to within 1 inch of the top. I would expect it to leak out somewhere visable and so far it hasn't. I'm gonna check the canister and try to pin point where the smell is. With 198,250 miles on the car it could be the canister. Keith

Ok, so I don't know exactly when this started, but everytime I completely fill the gas tank in my 95 Legacy wagon, there is a smell of gas inside the car and out. Now, the first thing to know is that the gas cap is only about 4 months old, and it is sealing. You get that nice woosh when you take the cap off. The second thing is that there has been no drop in gas mileage, and the third thing is that there are no visable signs of gas leaking on to the ground. So if the gas cap and filler neck appear to seal, and there is no obvious large leak, where could the smell be coming from? Could there be a vent hose that is cracked? Keih

Did you do it without breaking the wheel cylinder???? If you did you either got lucky or didn't have a ton of wear to the drum. I broke one of tabs off the piston of one of my wheel cylinders using the bolts without trying to un-adjust the shoes. If you can get in there and unadjust them some before trying the bolts I recommend it. Keith

With the Valve cover off you can access the cams. There is a spot on the cam shaft designed to put a wrench on it and hold the cam in place. Keith

I was working stages 2,3,6,8,10,& 12 and never got to take a close look at O'Brian's car. I was told thought that the radiator is split on both sides of the front bumper, with the innercooler and an oil cooler mounted tp to bottom in the center. I'd like to see it myself. Anyhow, you'll have to come next year. Great roads and good people! Keith

http://www.rallywestvirginia.net This is a BRAND NEW Rally and we'd like to see it get off to a great start. It is based around the Snow Shoe Ski Resort in West Virginia. As with pretty much any rally workers are needed. There is lots of information on the website, but if you're in the area and can come out and work it would be appreciated. No Experience required! Thanks for Listening! Keith

I had this on an impreza once. I just wound up taking the whole caliper and caliper bracket off and replacing them. The bracket bolts can be tough, but should come with a little force. Keith

Do what he says, but also pull back the seals and lube the bottom slide (the part on the caliper that the bolt you just took out rides in) because that part should slide around in the caliper. If you still have problems after that then it's the actual caliper piston, and they are not as fun to fix, but really not too bad. Keith

Yeah, I have to go ahead and disagree on SS not being needed as well. When you also add into the equation the temperature the fluid gets to under pressure and hard braking, that gets translated in some part to the rubber hose. We all know that the hotter rubber gets the easier it is to stretch. I will however say that you can usually get satisfying results by first going to a better pad and brake fluid for street applications. So I'd put my money there before I go to SS lines if I haven't already. Keith

This is an Old Thread, But WJM at one time had some and was able to get them for a reasonable price. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23899 Look him up... He's the guy that can help. Keith PS :banana: 1000th post!!!!

We've been running a 4 puck disc with stock pressure plate in our rally car for years. It was originally a stock 2.2, now we have a modified 2.0 Turbo, and the setup still works fine. Some people say they grab to hard and that you can't slip them... I've never felt that way. They do grab hard, but I can slip it no problem. I've been so disappointed with the performance of the stock clutch in my 95 2.2 Legacy, and when it comes time to replace it, I've been considering just throwing in a 6 puck disc. Keith

I tried some aresol spray on sound deadner once on a honda I had and it didn't do crap. I think the key is the thickness of the material, and with sray-on it takes a lot of coats. If I ever built another car up with a monster stereo I would go with real dynamat. Keith

This goes back 2.5 years! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7032 I found a similar situation while rebuilding an 88 EA-82T motor. I hope this helps. Keith

Awsome... If only this was three months ago when I had the interest, time, money, and storage for the justy project I wanted to start. Oh well :-\ Keith